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Old 09-05-2011, 07:42 PM   #29
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I have experience (documented within the following link) with a 2010 Yukon pulling a 25FB Flying Cloud.

-Chris
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...5fb-74242.html
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:06 AM   #30
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2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
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I tow a 25' FC EB with a 2003 Tahoe with tow package. I have tweaked it with a new intake and full dual exhaust. Yes at times on real steep hills it feels a little under powered but I don't feel in anyway insecure pulling the trailer.
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:08 PM   #31
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1500 Suburban with Airstream

Quote:
Originally Posted by phbarnhart View Post
First of all, Hi! I've been browsing a little and am seriously considering buying an AS.

Recently I bought a 2010 Suburban. It didn't have the Heavy Duty towing package but I've added a transmission fluid cooler and a brake controller. I'm told that the truck can tow 7400lbs.

I'm interested in either a 25' or 27' flying cloud but am concerned about the weight some. I recently rented a cheap white box trailer that was 26" with an UGVW of 6000lbs and I was not impressed.

Does anyone tow anything like that with a vehicle like mine? (Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, etc.)

Thanks,
Phil
Hello, I have a 1987 1500 2wd Suburban with a 350 engine and a 3.73 diff ratio. It pulls my 1988 25' Excella just fine. Steep grade just shift down and never tow in overdrive. Happy camping nm1oqrz
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Old 09-06-2011, 04:37 PM   #32
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2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
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You've got one of the good, older suburbans! Mine is about a 325 (if I got the conversion correct) with a 3.08. I'm seriously considering switching to the 3.42 or 3.73 gearing, but that's going to only occur if I'm unsatisfied with the TV experience AND it looks like doing so is going to fix the problem. Other replies in this post have convinced me that it would be a mistake to try and beef up my 1/2 ton too much and that a 3/4 ton would be the safest route if it turns out that I want to bring a lot of stuff along with me on my travels. I think that the Suburban I have will be adequate for the trailer, my young kids, small dogs and our stuff for the weekend trips that we're planning. However, if we end up doing much longer trips that require us to bring a lot more stuff I may seriously consider that 3/4 ton.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:47 PM   #33
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Contact Andy Thomson at CAN AM RV before you make big $$ decisions. His experience in setting up vehicles is impressive (many thousands), so get all the info you can, first.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:04 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX
Contact Andy Thomson at CAN AM RV before you make big $$ decisions. His experience in setting up vehicles is impressive (many thousands), so get all the info you can, first.
Thanks, I've seen that name mentioned more than once in these threads so I imagine that he's pretty good.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:00 AM   #35
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PM's sent. A long article by Mr. Thomson in separate parts.

Here's a handy quote from Ron Gratz about working the WDH numbers in the most basic sense (for the default TV, a pickemup or similar):

"A properly sized and adjusted weight distributing hitch will
"transfer" a load equal to approximately 20-25% of the tongue weight to the TT's axles.

A load equal to about 75-80% of the tongue weight will be added to the TV's rear axles."


.
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1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
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Hensley Arrow. 9-cpm solo, 15-cpm towing
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:31 PM   #36
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2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
PM's sent. A long article by Mr. Thomson in separate parts.

Here's a handy quote from Ron Gratz about working the WDH numbers in the most basic sense (for the default TV, a pickemup or similar):

"A properly sized and adjusted weight distributing hitch will
"transfer" a load equal to approximately 20-25% of the tongue weight to the TT's axles.

A load equal to about 75-80% of the tongue weight will be added to the TV's rear axles."


.
I must admit that the whole weight distribution thing kind of confuses me. I was under the impression that the point of such a system was to transfer weight to the TV's front axle so that the rear would not be supporting all of it. Does it also then transfer some of the weight back to the TT's axles?

I'm certainly not an engineer but I REALLY want to know how all this stuff works anyway. It just takes a while to get it into my thick head.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:27 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phbarnhart View Post
I must admit that the whole weight distribution thing kind of confuses me. I was under the impression that the point of such a system was to transfer weight to the TV's front axle so that the rear would not be supporting all of it. Does it also then transfer some of the weight back to the TT's axles?

I'm certainly not an engineer but I REALLY want to know how all this stuff works anyway. It just takes a while to get it into my thick head.
To understand what a WD hitch does, you must first understand what happens without using it.

You put the tounge weight of the trailer on the hitch ball which in cases can be as much as four feet behind the rear axle of the tow vehicle. This not only pushes the rear of the TV down, it transfers weight from the front of the TV to the rear axle, REDUCING THE WEIGHT on the front axle.

This reduction of weight on the front axle is very bad because by reducing the weight on that axle, you reduce the TRACTION on the only stearing axle, and the primary stopping axle of the entire rig.

The WD hitch moves the tongue weight foward on the TV from the hitch ball, and returns the normal weight and traction to the front steering and stopping axle of the rig.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:02 PM   #38
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One can use the wheelbarrow analogy: that the spring bars are like wheelbarrow handles, that, when adjusted, "lift" the rear of the TV to restore the weight removed from the front axle.

We want TV steering to be as neutral as when solo, neither under nor over steering due to being hitched to a travel trailer.

For the man who likes to read:

Here's the classic sticky thread from RV.net entitled "Weight Distribution Hitch: How It Works" (Ron Gratz)

And here's John Barca's disquisition on his 3/4T Suburban: An Analysis

(Note that this is six years old. Much has been learned and codified since as to that forum consensus).

Nick Crowhurst: Load Distribution Hitches: a Formula

JBarca: Tires and Hitch Mod

How to Determine Tow-ability by the Numbers

There are more.

This will be handy as it describes all of the above in re WDH being properly applied:

You might like this chart to use.
(Per Ron Gratz over at rv.net)

Weighing #1

TT attached and Weight Distribution Activated

Let Front Axle Load be "FA1"

Let Rear Axle Load be "RA1"

Let TT Axles Load be "TT1"



Then, while in same position on scales, take
Weighing #2
TT attached and Weight Distribution Not Activated
(in truth, it may be good to circle around so scale re-sets)

Let Front Axle Load be "FA2"

Let Rear Axle Load be "RA2"

Let TT Axles Load be "TT2"



Then, drive off scales and drop TT.

Return to scales and take
Weighing #3

TV only -- TT Not Attached

Let Front Axle Load be "FA3"

Let Rear Axle Load be "RA3"



From the above values, you can calculate:

TV weight = FA3 + RA3

Gross Combined Weight = (FA1 + RA1 + TT1)
- should also be equal to (FA2 + RA2 + TT2) if scale weights are correct

TT Weight = Gross Combined Weight - TV Weight

Tongue Weight = (FA2 + RA2) - (FA3 + RA3)

Load Transferred to TT Axles
when WD System in Activated = TT1 - TT2


.

.
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2004 DODGE Cummins 305/555; 6-manual; 9k GVWR.
Hensley Arrow. 9-cpm solo, 15-cpm towing
Sold: Silver Streak Model 3411
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:57 PM   #39
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Brought it home today. Didn't have to get up to freeway speeds or go up any major mountain passes or anything, but it towed great!
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:29 AM   #40
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Quote:
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Brought it home today. Didn't have to get up to freeway speeds or go up any major mountain passes or anything, but it towed great!
Congradulations! You know this means we expect pictures.
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Old 09-17-2011, 08:11 PM   #41
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Here, you go. There are more in my album.


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Old 09-17-2011, 08:50 PM   #42
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Suggestion for ya'll who want to change gearing and suspensions, and cooling systems etc. Find a good off road 4WD shop. Those guys are used to building wild stuff. Making a great Suburban tow vehicle out of one that was spec'd for non towing family hauling with reasonable mileage would be a walk in the park for that crowd.
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