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Old 12-05-2010, 09:28 AM   #1
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2010 Ram 1500 Suspension

I'm sort of thinking that I may want to beef up the suspension in the rear a bit. Seems to squat a bit too much when I hook up. Has anyone done this ona newer Ram?
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:08 AM   #2
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this isn't exactly the answer u seek,

but i've not read much on this forum about aftermarket 1/2 ton ram tweaks on the newer trucks...

((so until some1 jumps in with real advice, here are some thoughts))

this truck has the multilink COIL rear suspension right?

and probably has 20 inch rims/tires?

there are a boat load of suspension mod info/posts available on many of the ram enthusiast forums...

but wear high water boots while reading when u go there.
_________

as u know the 'rating' for the rear won't change without major upgrades (axles, spindles, linkage, springs, hubs and so on)

the new coil set up comes in at least 10 ratings from dodge and there are dozens of aftermarket up grades for the coils.

for example poly urethane spacers are available to 'lift' the coils and that's a simple/inexpensive tweak.

won't be my first choice, but that's irrelevant.

lift kits can be elaborate, with no upper limit on price.

it's not as simple as adding a leaf or traditional air bag assist with this newer suspension design.
__________

as dull as it is, the place to start is the beginning.

weigh the truck, weigh it hooked to the stream, weigh it to adjust the w/d gear.

use the w/d gear to REload the front axle to baseline.

IF the 2 axles are then within capacity/ratings, try that for towing.

(and don't forget 2 properly inflate the tires (they are p metric or LT tires??)

IF after REloading the front axle, the REAR axle is over loaded...

TRY using more w/d to shift some of the extra forward.

this will mean MORE tension on the screw jacks (try it) and might require stronger w/d bars.

this adjustment process can be done using a tape measure but scale weights really are the gold standard.

it can take all day to fiddle with this info/adjustments and make test towing loops on to the roadways.

IF u have not been through weighing at a cat scale here's an old thread with the basics...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...-in-17984.html

there are others that provide info on the process and axle loads and adjustments.
__________

timbren bump stops (taller than oem) are an easy/safe way to provide some help for rear squat.

a rear anti-roll/sway bar for the truck (upgrade in size) may be useful

poly urethane bushings, stiffer coils, coil air bags, coil spacers and so on...

the options are many but for towing we really need to understand the weights/redistribution and proper hitch setup parameters...

that's not exciting stuff but is important and will pay off long term.

it's easy to begin a game of 'wack a mole' but hard to win just by adding gadgets.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:15 AM   #3
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I have been trolling the Dodge Forums. True, many, many opinions. I need to be careful because the only reason I went with a 1500 is ease of use for my wife with child doing errands, etc. If it ends up riding like my old Ford F250 it won't serve it's all around purpose. I do think that a 1500 can do the kind of towing with the 25' footer and still be an everyday truck.

Here is one possible way to go: 2009-2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Air Helper Springs (Rear) by Air Lift
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:43 AM   #4
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one would have to work really hard to make the new dodge ride like an older 250...

the air lift systems have been very popular and for a long time.

i had air bags inside of coils on the old a/s moho and didn't like the wallow-y ride.

thats probably not an issue at the rear, but bags can and do fail too.

IF this is used, it will been necessary to DEflate the bags when not towing...

or simply leave them at a lower pressure all the time EXCEPT when towing.

the advantage to using timbrens are...

NO effect on handling/ride when not loaded

NO fiddling with inflation or bag related issues...

NO wiring/electrical installation...

200$ and under 1 hour to install.

this appears to be the model/kit, but thats only a guess...

http://www.timbren.com/timbren-appli...s/DR1500DQ.pdf

cheers
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Old 12-05-2010, 11:37 AM   #5
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2 air is right when he recommends setting your WD bars correctly. Follow the link provided and get the tools needed to make the proper adjustments.
I think after your rig is set up right, you won't need to make any modifications to that suspension. Good luck with setting it up.
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Old 12-05-2010, 07:20 PM   #6
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3rd the WD setup? Can you post pics of your setup either here or on the PP thread? Hooked up on a level surface from the side, with a close up of the hitch as well? A visit to a CAT scale will provide the best info for us to help you.

I think your Ram will be fine, without fancy additions to the rear. The whole purpose of the WD is to help out with the squat. You should see that it pretty well squats fairly flat. Even a Mini Cooper with WD squats fairly flat with a Argosy attached (see Andy T. from Can Am for a pic). While extreme, it just shows you what a good hitch set up (which you bought) will do for you. Dialing it in is the key.

P.S. - welcome to the AS family, I'm sure your music skills would be a huge addition to the campfire sing alongs! Wish you were in the Northwest!
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirHeadRik View Post
I'm sort of thinking that I may want to beef up the suspension in the rear a bit. Seems to squat a bit too much when I hook up. Has anyone done this ona newer Ram?
Hi, if it didn't go down too much with your Equal-i-zer, it shouldn't do it with your Propride. You just need to adjust your WD more.
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:04 AM   #8
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I also have a 2010 Ram 1500 and pull a 22'FB Sport with 2 Vespa scooters (275 lbs each) in the bed. I had the Timbrons installed and they work great. The ride seems the same as before and no longer have the AS/hitch slopping downward.



Gary
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:51 AM   #9
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Some times I wish I was up there too!!!

Actually, this is my third Airstream. I went from a 1964 Bambi to a 2006 19' to this 25' International. This is the most I have towed, however!


Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy View Post
3rd the WD setup? Can you post pics of your setup either here or on the PP thread? Hooked up on a level surface from the side, with a close up of the hitch as well? A visit to a CAT scale will provide the best info for us to help you.

I think your Ram will be fine, without fancy additions to the rear. The whole purpose of the WD is to help out with the squat. You should see that it pretty well squats fairly flat. Even a Mini Cooper with WD squats fairly flat with a Argosy attached (see Andy T. from Can Am for a pic). While extreme, it just shows you what a good hitch set up (which you bought) will do for you. Dialing it in is the key.

P.S. - welcome to the AS family, I'm sure your music skills would be a huge addition to the campfire sing alongs! Wish you were in the Northwest!
Marc
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Old 12-06-2010, 09:15 AM   #10
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I live pretty close to Cat Scales and I hope to head over in the next day or three. For now, I wonder how these numbers will stack up?

Here is what the numbers are supposed to be based on manufacturers and forum fellas:

Airstream Trailer - Hitch Weight = 833, Unit Base Weight=5,552, GVWR=7,300

2010 Dodge Ram 1500 - 5,400 (This is an educated guess based on reading what others have weighed on some of the Ram forums.)

Also - Water @ 39 Gals = 325.65 pounds
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Old 12-07-2010, 06:15 PM   #11
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Check in the DODGE Bodybuilders guide for the specific code for your truck (also part of VIN and on door sticker); the info that tells whether regular cab, 2wd, etc, etc. The numbers are available for each specification:

Official Dodge Site - Body Builder's Guide

I'd add 450-lbs for full fuel and driver. 600 for 2-pax and the usual "trunk junk" we all carry around.

The key to the chart is the exact payload capacity that is reduced by fuel & passengers & stuff. That is the true baseline, not the published figure.

No matter what it is, the time spent on getting the WDH corrected & perfected will take care of the rear sag. If indeed it actually is sag.

Expect that a payload of one-half of factory (empty) capacity will not change the attitude, the "rake" of the vehicle much, but that coming closer to capacity will. Add-on suspension pieces are really not the answer (crutches, bandaids) however much they are used by those with square white boxes. My folks towed their 8k GVWR Silver Streak with a Cadillac for over 12-years (coils all around) and sag wasn't present (unless we overloaded trunk). This was with 4-adults and one child aboard.

Note that Andy Thomsons vehicles towing big Airstreams (minivans, whatnot) do not appear to be nose high.

In other words, patience and time at the scale house.
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