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Old 02-01-2010, 12:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
I don't know where you looked up the 14K number, but airstream has never made a trailer anywhere near that weight.

from airstream.com, original spec sheet on the 1999 30ft Excella 1000:

dry weight: 7150
hitch weight: 690
additional allowable weight: 1150
It apears I have made a mistake. I looked up the weight on a .pdf spread sheet that I down loaded from this site, but I think I used the weight for a 30' motor home. Also, the spread sheet must be incomplete as it does not show another 30' anything in that year.

My opologies.
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:13 PM   #16
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A hemi is fine for ½ ton size loads…you would be reaching the upper end of that scale. As noted, if you were towing on a limited basis you could get by. For extensive travelling, a BB gasser or deezul would make you much happier. Small blocks (of any stripe) just do not cut it for big loads…
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:36 PM   #17
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7150 dry and 30 feet is quite a bit of trailer for a 1/2 ton truck. I think what you'll find is payload issues. Add another 1000 pounds of weight in the trailer for a "loaded" number. Balance the trailer to run with 12% on the hitch and that's 978 pounds sitting on your receiver hitch.

Depending on the configuration, the 2007 Dodge Ram 4WD long bed has a "payload" of between 1300 and 1400 pounds. In other words, your base weight is around 5300 pound and you have GVWR of 6600 pounds. So, you drop a 1,000 pounds of trailer on hitch... and you have 300 to 400 pounds of "spending weight" for passengers, gear and things you'd like to toss in the bed.

You look at the cut sheets on the Dodge, and you'll see you're note getting any extra GVWR out of the hemi. Towing capacity isn't just about the motor... big block 8, small block 8, diesel, steam locomotive, whatever. It's also about suspension, wheel base, brakes and a host of other mechanical systems. In theory, you could pull your trailer with a '32 Ford with a big block 8 pushing 500+ hp... but I wouldn't do it.
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:05 AM   #18
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I believe the Dodge 1500 came in two different axle configurations. 3:55 and 3:92 - everything else in the driveline would remain the same.
3:55 would be ok on the flats - don't be in a hurry.
3:92 would be the best. I would have the ratio changed before I would switch to a 3/4 ton.
I'm sure my rear end is 3.55. Can I have the 3.92 installed and do you know where they do it. It's a limited slip rear end.

Thanks for your advice!
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:20 AM   #19
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It is going to get expensive with 4wd. Not sure, but you have do front and rear last time I looked into it. Good luck, but the ratio you have will tear up the trans in heart beat...
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:42 AM   #20
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Gear Change Cost

I was quoted $2500 PER DIFFERENTIAL at a dealer a while back (I was interested in maintaining the warranty), but got it done at an independant shop that specializes in differential work for about $600 for a 2WD. Then you either have to take it to the dealer to reprogram the 'puter, or buy a programmer for another $400 +.- .

If it were me, I'd try it like it is, and if I wasn't satisfied, trade the truck. But, that's just me.
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Old 02-02-2010, 10:32 AM   #21
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Typically shops that work on 4wd vehicles (off road shop) would do the work or know of local people who are capable of doing the work. They are just changing the ring and pinion gears but there are precise measurements for the gear lash when installing the new gears and it takes a little know how but this type of work is done everyday. I would ask around and see if the 3.55 carrier will work with 3.92 carrier - this is where your limited slip comes into play.
You will have to take it to a dealer and have the computer changed so that it will work properly with the new ratio. The parts will probably be in the ballpark of $600 or so plus labor and oil.
I would make a few phones calls.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:01 AM   #22
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Smile

Thanks for all the good advice. There is a God in Heaven! I called several Dodge dealers and they ran the last eight numbers of my VIN and informed me my rear end is a 3.92, so no need to pay expensive mod bills. The only thing left to do is install the trailer tow mirrorsthat arrived yesterday. The 3.92 rear end bumps my max tow weight up over the max GVWR of the trailer of 8300 pounds and gives me 200 pounds to play with. I have no intention of towing the trailer at max weight so I should be fine. I'm having a Reese WD hitch with sway bars installed and hope this will make the tow OK. Again, thanks for your help.
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:23 AM   #23
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I'll say this again... just because I think it's important and because I want to have a clear conscience. Taller gears in the rear differential make pulling easier... but that's it. In fact, the only time you really notice the rear end ratio is during acceleration, pulling hills and when you don't have the trailer on and you're running higher RPMs at highway speeds. I run a very capable half-ton Nissan Titan with a few modifications. Personally, I would't feel comfortable towing a 30' trailer weighing over 8000 pounds with the Titan. Here's the thing, Hawk. You can probably run things right up to the limit and be OK most of the time. That said, there are "pucker moments" from time to time where have a margin for safety makes things a whole lot less "interesting." Check back with us in a year or two and let us know how the Dodge runs for you.
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk43 View Post
I'm having a Reese WD hitch with sway bars installed and hope this will make the tow OK. Again, thanks for your help.
Hawk,

The Reese hitch is good, but very difficult to adjust to perfection, and if not adjusted correctly, it just doesn't work good for sway control. And, pulling any 30 footer with any 1/2 ton truck will require good sway control.

May I suggest you read, study, and understand this thread about how to set up a Reese Dual Cam hitch for good sway control performance:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ams-52579.html

Please DO NOT rely on a dealer to set up the hitch correctly...most of them just want you off the lot after the trailer is sold.
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:07 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk43 View Post
...gives me 200 pounds to play with. I have no intention of towing the trailer at max weight so I should be fine.
Yep...
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:05 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Hawk,

The Reese hitch is good, but very difficult to adjust to perfection, and if not adjusted correctly, it just doesn't work good for sway control. And, pulling any 30 footer with any 1/2 ton truck will require good sway control.

May I suggest you read, study, and understand this thread about how to set up a Reese Dual Cam hitch for good sway control performance:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ams-52579.html

Please DO NOT rely on a dealer to set up the hitch correctly...most of them just want you off the lot after the trailer is sold.
Steve.

Adjusting the dual cam is easy after it's basically installed.

Make sure the tow vehicle and trailer are in a straight line.

Hook up the torsion bars.

Loosen the U bolts that hold the dual cam in place.

The cams will make the saddles move to it's correct place.

Move the U bolts as necessary, and tighten them.

That's it, it's properly aligned.

Takes maybe 5 minutes to do it.

Andy
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:24 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Steve.

Adjusting the dual cam is easy after it's basically installed.

Make sure the tow vehicle and trailer are in a straight line.

Hook up the torsion bars.

Loosen the U bolts that hold the dual cam in place.

The cams will make the saddles move to it's correct place.

Move the U bolts as necessary, and tighten them.

That's it, it's properly aligned.

Takes maybe 5 minutes to do it.

Andy
Andy,

Again, you are absolutely correct. Correct that is, for the old style of "U" bolted cams, and it seems hardly anyone sells those anymore.

The new style of cams aren't "U" bolted to the "A" frame, they are bolted solid in place, and the cams themselfs are threaded and adjusted. There in the problem lies.

Hmmm, I thought you were "up" on the Reese Dual Cam hitches....seems you are a little "out of date".

May I suggest you read this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ams-52579.html
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:49 PM   #28
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How much do you weigh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk43 View Post
The 3.92 rear end bumps my max tow weight up over the max GVWR of the trailer of 8300 pounds and gives me 200 pounds to play with. I have no intention of towing the trailer at max weight so I should be fine. .
You have to count your own weight the GVWR, plus your "stuff". Sounds like you are close to max weight right now, even before lunch.
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