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Old 04-30-2014, 05:37 PM   #15
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Carl,

Forgot to mention that my F-350, 7.3 has a 4:10 rear end and is not a 4X4. Figured that with all the travel we would do as full timers, the one MPG probable difference between the 2X4 and 4X4 would add up in several year. When not towing, we got about 17 MPG but that was with a full load in the eight foot bed as that was my basement and garage. Truck weighed in at about 8000 pounds. Ran Michelins on truck and would get about 70,000 on a set. Also ran Amsoil in the engine, tranny and rear end.

My friend who had an F-350 gas job, non-dually, also towing a 34 footer would get 9 MPG on a good day with a tail wind and about 8 normally. Not sure what he got when not towing but it certainly was quieter in the cab.

Hope this helps you.
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post
so what kinda price tag that have.. I see the turbo housing but no prices..

Banks Power Quick-Turbo Assembly #24457
i found this on another site. do you have to replace the compressor wheel as well.. This will allow the turbo to last longer is that the plan or for more power and better MPG.? I guess with a new exhaust the power is better not back to the transmission issue.. how much is too much for the stock trans.

I can see this race to the top for these guys but how much do you get back with the money spent.
I don't recall... bought the truck in 2005 upgrades in 2006, then the company decided to move us from private to company vehicles in 2008 and the truck went from 50k miles a year to 4,500. I believe you could use the stock compressor wheel. I was going for improved flow more than anything else.

My truck gets 14.5mpg, I have a 4.10 limited slip rear end. The truck had 38,000 miles on it in December of 2005, I purchased it from the service manager at my local Ford dealer, it was his personal truck, 90% of those 38,000 miles were pulling a goose neck horse trailer. I probably towed another 12,000 out of the 100k that I put on it. It doesn't get run near enough but my MIL and bride love it and won't let me sell it.

Aaron
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:21 PM   #17
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I have a 2000 diesel Excursion.
My mileage is 17.5-19 solo and 12-13 towing a 25 Safari. I am an average driver around 70-75 solo and 65-70 towing.
I purchased my vehicle new. Engine and transmission have been trouble free for 218k miles. I do change my transmission fluid every 60,000 miles and the pan filter every other change.
It does have a 4 speed automatic which some have complained about. The diesel engine has so much torque that I find it adequate.
I have a 4x4 and the front end has needed quite a few repairs. Virtually everything has been repaired or rebuilt except the gears and axles and housings. I am on my third set of ball joints.
Everything that is spun by the serpentine belt except the air conditioning has needed attention.
The stock brakes warped rotors and were replaced by slotted rotors and racing discs at 80k. Since then the brakes have been bulletproof.
Various parts have been replaced on the power windows and doors.
The turning ratio is huge because of the solid front axle. Forget about getting in many parking garages because of height. The vehicle probably won't fit in your garage at home.
I plan to keep my Excursion as long as it is reliable. It looks good. I have waxed it and garaged it most of the time and the finish is great. The interior looks good and has no rips or tears.
It still has as much power as new. It will go up a steep grade near our house at above the legal limit like it did when new.
If find a 7.3 Powerstroke that has been taken good care of, and have need of a huge powerful vehicle, buy it. It is a great tow vehicle. At this point these vehicles are priced on condition, there is no more depreciation. If you keep it in repair, you will get your money out of it if you purchased it at a fair price.
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:52 PM   #18
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From the owner of a 2005 F350 Dually with the 6.0 and 141,000 on the clock.

You can spend $5k to fix the 4R100 to handle the 7.3 or you can spend $5k to fix all of the known issues with the 6.0, whose 5R110 transmission is near perfect and trouble free.

I like the increased power of the 6.0 over any of the 7.3s that I've owned and I like the 18 mpg (empty) that I see regularly.

2005 was the first year of the coil spring front end which rides smoother and turns tighter. 2005 was also when Ford did away with rebuildable 4wd front hubs, if that matters to you.

I enjoy working on mine, doing the maintenance - there are some folks who don't.

By whichever makes YOU happy.


Bill
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:11 PM   #19
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I paid an arm and a leg for Ford hubs. After market Warns are 1/3 the price and just as good.
Better yet, if you don't need 4x4, don't buy one, lots of problems
My vacuum automatic hubs do not work anymore due to vacuum leaks, I have to engage them manually.
Most old 7.3s leak out of the rear bearing seals. Mine does but not enough to affect oil consumption. The repair is expensive as the engine has to be pulled at least on the 4x4.
Zero problems with my turbo. Lots of problems with 6.0 turbos where the exhaust gas is recirculated. If you buy a 6.0, make sure the known problems such as egr are fixed.
I had flutter at low rpm but it was the camshaft position sensor since recalled and fixed permanently.
Not much point in chipping a 7.3, all it does is make more smoke. The limitation is in breathing and the valve train, exhaust and breathing mods produce a little more hp but I never though it was worth the expense.
I think premature transmission problems are due to hopping up the engines, infrequent fluid changes or towing at or above the 10k limit.
If you buy an old Ford diesel make sure you have a resource of an independent mechanic or you are a skilled wrench. The vehicles are too old to take to the dealer.
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:02 PM   #20
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1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by handn View Post
I paid an arm and a leg for Ford hubs. After market Warns are 1/3 the price and just as good.
Better yet, if you don't need 4x4, don't buy one, lots of problems
My vacuum automatic hubs do not work anymore due to vacuum leaks, I have to engage them manually.
Most old 7.3s leak out of the rear bearing seals. Mine does but not enough to affect oil consumption. The repair is expensive as the engine has to be pulled at least on the 4x4.
Zero problems with my turbo. Lots of problems with 6.0 turbos where the exhaust gas is recirculated. If you buy a 6.0, make sure the known problems such as egr are fixed.
I had flutter at low rpm but it was the camshaft position sensor since recalled and fixed permanently.
Not much point in chipping a 7.3, all it does is make more smoke. The limitation is in breathing and the valve train, exhaust and breathing mods produce a little more hp but I never though it was worth the expense.
I think premature transmission problems are due to hopping up the engines, infrequent fluid changes or towing at or above the 10k limit.
If you buy an old Ford diesel make sure you have a resource of an independent mechanic or you are a skilled wrench. The vehicles are too old to take to the dealer.

The best 7.3 mechanic in my part of NC is at my Ford dealer, it is what it is. I bought the upgrades for mine to increase the breathing, no chip involved. There is a guy somewhere here in NC that has a 7.3 crew cab dually that he runs at the drag strip last time I saw it was in Goldsboro, he runs mid 12's and pull the front wheels off the ground... he probably has over $40,000 in the motor and drive train. I know he was running propane injection and progressive twin turbos. talk about haulin'

Aaron
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:30 PM   #21
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Two are sitting in my driveway, 2000 CC 4x4, 8' bed, bullbar and lift gate. 2002 Excusion 4x4, Eddie model. Both have over 300,000 miles on them (yeh, we like to drive) no what I would call major issues, just standard stuff for anything with that many miles (water pump, alt., ball joints, one turbo, etc....) we live on a dirt road so rough driving is standard for us. Have used both to pull from VA-FL-MO-MA-IL and everything in between many of times. Tire to run would be the LTX's we also get about 70k out of ours. Currently have a Stiction issue on the Excursion, trying to clear it up via Hotshot which seems to be working.

Bought the truck in Sept. 1999, Excursion Feb 2003, when the engines finally die, a long block will go in in the hope they will last until I won't care anymore.

Enjoy,
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:24 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by oldfulltimer View Post
Carl,

Forgot to mention that my F-350, 7.3 has a 4:10 rear end and is not a 4X4. Figured that with all the travel we would do as full timers, the one MPG probable difference between the 2X4 and 4X4 would add up in several year. When not towing, we got about 17 MPG but that was with a full load in the eight foot bed as that was my basement and garage. Truck weighed in at about 8000 pounds. Ran Michelins on truck and would get about 70,000 on a set. Also ran Amsoil in the engine, tranny and rear end.

My friend who had an F-350 gas job, non-dually, also towing a 34 footer would get 9 MPG on a good day with a tail wind and about 8 normally. Not sure what he got when not towing but it certainly was quieter in the cab.

Hope this helps you.
thanks for the info..

Not sure why but for the most part the ones i see for sale are crew cab and 4x4 model. Trying to find a 2 wheel drive, super cab or extended cab model is like finding hens teeth.

When running the amsoil did you do extended fill schedule or regular.

my buddy was saying he gets 12-15 towing an SOB 29fter and 20ish depending on his foot non towing.

I was reading on the ford diesel forum and see a lot of "things" to look for on trucks..

So, when looking at a used unit, what are the main things you guys have seen as issues, especially with units that are somewhat higher mileage say over 150K.

I was seeing stuff with steering box, ball joints, turbo leaks, transmissions etc. What issues are you seeing with you now older units..

thanks for all the input. it helps make the process of buying a used (diesel) truck a bit less daunting.
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:16 AM   #23
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Last summer I sold a F150 crew cab, It got 11mpg towing and 17mpg empty highway. Bought a F250 6.8 V10 with a 4.10 gear, it get 10 mpg towing and 15 empty highway. The F150 had a K&N air system to get its Mpg which was a 10% increase. The mpg for the F250 was last summer before putting on a K&N air system, if it gives 10% increase it will about equal the F150


With all that said, I have found that it seems that with the lower cost of gas and oil changes that the cost per mile is less with the gas engine. I am not even including the higher initial cost of the diesel.


Now maybe my V10 is not as powerful as the diesels, but it does a very good job at the speeds that I drive. It does the job at an all around lower cost. Finally, let me say that I take to the road to have a good time, not to make good time!!!
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:54 PM   #24
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I have a 2008 F-250 with the V-10 and 4.10 gears. I can stay with all diesels except for the latest versions, but my maintenance costs are way less than a diesel as is the initial cost. Not to mention the extra cost of diesel fuel. But we are not here to argue the aspects of diesel vs gas rigs. The fellow is interested in knowing more about a '96 Ford 7.3. That is a very good diesel engine with very few engine issues. As is with all diesels, the fuel must be very pure and filtered very well or by by injectors, a big number to replace. Also, turbo's wear out, inter-cooler ducts wear out and fail, coolant must be changed regularly or you will get cavitation and cylinder failure, weak tranny that needs help. All that being said, that year of Ford was unbeatable compared to the other species, Chevy and Dodge, and the Ford had much less problems and a lot of power. I had one and it was a great ruck as was my 2002 7.3, but the very best truck I have ever owned is the one I own now, my V-10.


Also, a question was asked regarding Amsoil and long term use without changing the oil; I would not recommend that at all. You are way better off using good dino oil, not synthetic, and regular oil changing. Many users of Amsoil have wound up with mega iron problems after long term use and high mile oil changes. If you are interested in engine oils, go to www.bobistheoilguy.com web site and learn all there is to know about engine oils.
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:06 PM   #25
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recommended mileage between oil changes

that brings up the what is normal mileage between oil change question. I believe i read somewhere it was 7500 non towing or 5000 with towing.

not sure what is correct.

how about the fuel and water separator filers.. when should they be changed??

how about trans and rear end grease..

thanks to all with input.

PS:: pappy what kind if tongue weight with the slide. ??
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:41 PM   #26
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1999 34' Excella
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The 99-03 7.3 PSD is one of the most sought after diesels for a reason. They were strong, reliable and fairly fuel efficient. When Ford went to the 6.0 they did it for emissions. The 7.3 just couldn't meet the newer emissions requirements. it had to be a smaller displacement engine. Unfortunately the international 6.0L was a giant disaster. There are plenty of people out there who had them with pretty good luck. Mostly private personal vehicles. In the world of fleets this motor almost bankrupted a lot of people. and still continues to do so today.


I had an 04 6.0 for my work truck in a F450. It finally dies at 237k with a blown head gasket. Over the life of the vehicle we spent $58k in repairs and almost all were engine related. Personally I wouldn't touch a 6.0L if you gave it to me for free. Sad part is the truck itself was pretty nice.


When I started my search for a tow vehicle I strictly searched for a 7.3, anything 08 or newer was just too expensive. I bought an 03 F350 srw, ccsb, 4x2/ Only had 35,000 miles on it. I just rolled it over to 42,000 miles last week. The truck is HD enough to haul me, the wife, the kids, the gear and my 29' Excella where ever I want. Set the cruise at 70 and she doesn't even come out of gear on a 5% grade. In stock form its a great platform and will pull anything AS makes. The weak point of that truck is the 4R100 trans for sure. Keep the fluid changed on a regular basis and don't beat on it. Drive it like a normal vehicle and it will treat you just fine. My bro just sold his with 170k on it original trans still going strong. I have one at work with 240k still original trans. So its possible just not the norm.


Flat level towing I can see 14 mpg at 65. But generally in the 12 to 13 range. The biggest prob I have is the small 29 gal tank. Before a trip I will stop and stuff fuel into the tank till its filled all the way up the fill neck. I can fit an extra 6.2 gal of fuel in this way. Doesn't seem like much but its an extra 75 miles.


I love the 7.3 and will hang on to it. Especially cause of the mileage. They are out there with low miles but you will pay for it. I paid $20,500 for mine it needed batteries, a starter and glow plug work, and a set of tires. Wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post
that brings up the what is normal mileage between oil change question. I believe i read somewhere it was 7500 non towing or 5000 with towing.

not sure what is correct.

how about the fuel and water separator filers.. when should they be changed??

how about trans and rear end grease..

thanks to all with input.

PS:: pappy what kind if tongue weight with the slide. ??

oil every 5000 is the way to go. Anything with a HUEI system will benefit from clean oil. I work for a Cat dealer and have access to load of oil so I do mine every 2000 or so. Fuel filter every other oil change, trans every 25k, front and or rear dif every 50k. Its on the early side but I'm a big believer of rather do it early than late. Just use quality fluids. what ever your are comfortable with. I use Mobil 15w40, Mobil synthetic in the rear dif and semi synthetic in the trans. Be careful with the trans Ford spec I think was Merc III and book said DO NOT use Merc V but they stopped making Merc III and now Merc V is acceptable. Its been reformulated to be backwards compatible. Just don't use Merc SP its an instant trans killer in the 4r100
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:06 PM   #28
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1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post
that brings up the what is normal mileage between oil change question. I believe i read somewhere it was 7500 non towing or 5000 with towing.

not sure what is correct.

how about the fuel and water separator filers.. when should they be changed??

how about trans and rear end grease..

thanks to all with input.

PS:: pappy what kind if tongue weight with the slide. ??
I change oil at 5k, fuel and air at 10k, no separate water filter that I am aware of, I just open the tap up at every oil change and drain a cup or so off, or when the light comes on. Trans was getting done annually ~25-30k miles. Rear end... don't remember. Need to check the antifreeze a couple of times a year to make sure it has enough additives in it. I was putting a booster bottle in about every 15,000 miles. Got the test kit and the booster stuff from one of the fleet service places along with Standyne fuel additive.

Aaron
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