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Old 07-16-2009, 01:24 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by rangebowdrie View Post
.... but spent about half of that time flushing new fluid throughout the system.
When the job was done, the braking was much improved, and the pedal was nice and hard, with very little take-up slack.
Excellent point, changing the fluid is something I do every two years,(moisture and brake fluid don't like each other), it would probably improve the brake performance a LOT.It's worth a try.
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:49 PM   #16
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Anyone have a link to, or quick tutorial on, adjusting these rear brakes? (never had a GM before, not much of a car mechanic anyway) Thanks!
OK- just read in the manual to simply back up, and brake hard, a couple times.
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:37 PM   #17
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If yours has many miles, the leaf spring pads are probably worn, resulting in metal to metal contact.
Replacing those wear pads and lubricating the rear springs is a fantastic improvment in ride.

On the front you have brass/bronze bushing on the A-arm pivots, they must be kept well lubed also. (1/2 ton is rubber)

Getting the suspension to move up and down will get your ride to work correctly.
You will be amazed at the improvement it makes.
You can go as far as placing teflon strips between the leafs = very smooth action.

A 3/4 ton can ride very nice, with better road feel than a 1/2 ton.

You should be able to make the tires lock up on hard braking, if not, something is needing attention.
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:09 PM   #18
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Hello

FLuid does need changed... oil based fluid has a life, however wont affect brakeing, just rubber life Lines, calipers, and wheel cylinders.

Actually your are describing the classic Brake fade from Glazing. New mettalic pads also glaze when heated up. Drum brakes are fine in the rear. you dont want to over tighten them, or they will heat and glaze.

If your front brakes are fine, and not glazed, then I would go to proportioning valve. But I am sure Glazing is your issue.

Maybe even check your trailer brakes... if they arent adjusted right, it will over load your T/V brakes, then glazing them. When I press my brakes my setting is about 7, any more and it pulls me back

As far as harsh ride, the only way to safely adjust that, is threw shocks or different rate springs, Personaly speaking, I would just drop a link on your torsion bars and load the suspension more, if you have to adjust your hitch for a level ride... so be it. 3/4 ton vehicle ride better under a load. Dont mess with tire pressure it is a sure cause for disaster. If you want to run less pressure change your tire to one that accepts less pressure.
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:28 AM   #19
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1999 3/4 Ton Suburban Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by klattu View Post
You should be able to make the tires lock up on hard braking, if not, something is needing attention.
If it hasn't been tampered with or hasn't become non-functional, all 1999 C/K 2500 Suburbans had Anti-Lock Brakes standard. They will pulse but not lock up on the highway -- but in a panic stop the electric trailer brakes will lock up causing quite an unexpected rocking motion, but an arrow straight stop. I learned this while towing this summer when a car unexpectedly pulled in front of me and stopped when nearing a freeway on-ramp. I must admit that I was almost surprised that the Anti-Locks performed flawlessly after nearly 200,000 miles.

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Old 07-17-2009, 11:19 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Hello
FLuid does need changed... oil based fluid has a life, however wont affect brakeing, just rubber life Lines, calipers, and wheel cylinders
Old contaminated fluid does not cause poor braking, low pedal?
New to me.
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Old 07-17-2009, 03:09 PM   #21
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In the vehicle that I was referring to, an '80 K-25, it appeared that the fluid had never been changed. The mechanic at the shop, that I use, told me that over time, (in this case, a long time), the moisture will find it's way down to the cylinders, and the heat build-up would cause the moisture to "boil", so to speak, and the vapor pockets would cause the pedal to feel "spongy". Not to mention, rusting the insides of the cylinders, which would then cause leaks.
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Old 07-17-2009, 05:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangebowdrie View Post
In the vehicle that I was referring to, an '80 K-25, it appeared that the fluid had never been changed. The mechanic at the shop, that I use, told me that over time, (in this case, a long time), the moisture will find it's way down to the cylinders, and the heat build-up would cause the moisture to "boil", so to speak, and the vapor pockets would cause the pedal to feel "spongy". Not to mention, rusting the insides of the cylinders, which would then cause leaks.
Exactly, it's always been a 30k maintainence item at every dealer I've worked at.


Caveat, excess heat will also cause new fluid to boil, the most common cause of a soft pedal under hard braking. Moisture, (water) compresses at a different rate than brake fluid causing the same condition.
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:48 AM   #23
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I just came off a week of towing in the U.P. of Michigan. I believe these brakes work as they should. The anti-lock works fine (had a chance to try it) and the dealer says they are up to snuff. They pretty much said that this is how they work. But I honestly don't think my wife could handle it if she had to stop the truck and trailer in an emergency, although adrenaline is a wonderful equalizer. I know this truck is big and heavy and it is a truck and not my little VW Golf, which will stop on a dime. I think I will check with an independent brake shop and see what they say. This truck is a great tow vehicle. Put 1500 miles on it the past week without a problem. I have even come to accept the gas mileage. It needs some attention to some rust that is just starting but I don't want to throw money at it if I can't get these issues resolved. I will keep checking out everyones suggestions...again, thanks.
Tom
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:05 PM   #24
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Besides the recommended Edelbrock shocks, does anyone have any opinions on other brands?
Thanks,
Tom
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Old 01-03-2010, 02:47 AM   #25
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Bilstiens are good value for the money, and have a soft ride on the freeway. New shocks and have the leaf springs taken apart, polished, new teflon pads and grease, they will ride better than new. An expert could recommend taking a leaf out and re-arching the springs, but that gets iffy for towing unless you are really sure what you are doing. Call around and find the closest leaf spring rebuilder, or it might be cheaper to just buy a new pair, ready to go and with a lower spring rate from one of the traditional 4x4 suspension companies like Rancho or similar.

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