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Old 08-30-2011, 09:32 PM   #29
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I just bought a 2008 Toyota Tundra TRD off road double cab. I was pulling my 74 25'Tradewind with my 2004 tundra double cab 2wd and my 2006 4Runner Limited. The 04 Tundra was awesome.No troubles. My 06 Runner did not have issues except being under powered in the Canadian Rockies. But this new Tundra...Holy crap! The tow/haul mode on the transmission is fantastic!!With the trailer and truck loaded with 3 dogs, bikes and all our gear,and of course the weight distribution hitch on, it still drives like there is nothing behind the truck! I tried both V8 options and the 5.7 is the way to go.Lots of power to spare! I have finally found towing nirvana!!
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:25 AM   #30
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The toy big V8 has unbelievable towing grunt courtesy of the 403 ft-lb of torque, the 4.3 rear axle and the 6 speed tranny. I don't think there is a gasser out there (non turbo) that will tow any better. It is indeed towing nirvana especially if you have the floor shift for easy downshifting.

I just returned from a trip down the Blue Ridge Parkway, and I got 14.0 mpg- I tow very gently.

Dan
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:41 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by DMT View Post
I have an 09 F150 4x4 SuperCrew with the 157" wheelbase, 3.73 axle and max trailer towing package (11,100 lbs). The truck came with 20" P rated tires, and the door sticker states the maximum weight of occupants and cargo must not exceed 878 lbs. My axle ratings, also on the door sticker, are GAWRf 4050lbs and GAWRr 4000 lbs. The GVWR is somewhat less at 7200 lbs.

I threw out the stock tires and have since installed a set of 10 ply Michelins. I don't know how much of the truck's weight restriction was influenced by the stock tires. After five trips through the scales and several different hitch setups I concluded that there is no way to load distribute enough tongue weight to get the rear axle load under the stated GAWR. I tow a 2011 International 27FB. The tongue weight is 700 lbs I think.

The best I have achieved was with the following conditions. Trailer tanks empty, truck full of gas, two adults, two children, one dog, two bicycles in the back along with a couple of lawn chairs and a barbecue, propane tank and 5 ga fresh water jerry can. The hitch is a Reese dual cam with the heavier bars (1200# I think) and enough stress after hitch up to bend the bars slightly.

Measured Axle load at scale (versus listed GWR)
Front axle: 3902 (4050)
Rear axle: 4277 (4000)

Total truck: 8179 (7200)

Trailer axles: 5842 (7600)

Check out the sticker on your door. I have no problem pulling my 27FB; my issue is payload.
A slight bend in your Reese bars, won't give you the sway control that is best.

Because of the tow vehicle stiffness, drop the bar rating down to 750.

Then, the bars will bend about 2 inches, giving you sway control that is top notch.

The heavier duty the tow vehicle, the lighter the bars should be. That's been proven by many owners in a different thread.

Andy
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:06 AM   #32
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all of this is well and good, but

My 25Fb 2008 Safari weighs 7300 GVWR and I pull it with a 2004 GMC Sierra Denali AWD, four wheel steer 6.0 gas rig. and it pulls and runs like a dream...A equalizer 10,000 hitch...which after 60,000 pulling the trailer, i am considering another hitch of some sort....The truck is equal to a 2500HD in towing capacity

But the main drain.....is going up hill...even with the 6.0 I sure wish for more power going up hills withoout having to kick it into afterburner and run for several miles up a 6% grade at 4000 or so rpm....i have a tranny cooler but it does heat up pullin that train up a semi serious incline....

we are fulltimers and i have not ever really experienced serious climbs as in colorado but even on the semi serious inclines.....i wish for more power.....
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:34 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Ruler

My hat goes off to the guy who came up with the WDH idea.

Does anyone know who it was??
If you want to see what the alternative was in 1954, watch "The Long Long Trailer" starring Lucille Ball. When he took the car to the hitch shop, they sold him what looked like a wheeled dolly. It wasn't really explained in the movie but it was barely visible in a few of the side on scenes in the mountains, and was obviously bearing the tongue weight. The convertible only had to pull. Interestingly, the electric brakes haven't chanced much in nearly 60 years but the controller sure has! The pull out steps and door locks look a lot like what's in use today.
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:07 PM   #34
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...lly-44260.html
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:22 PM   #35
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But the main drain.....is going up hill...
Poor baby. In ours, on a 6% grade, I can walk faster than the coach. However, let's not forget the 15mpg we get. As Vinnie would say, "I'm just a mo/ho guy."
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:38 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TouringDan View Post
The toy big V8 has unbelievable towing grunt courtesy of the 403 ft-lb of torque, the 4.3 rear axle and the 6 speed tranny. I don't think there is a gasser out there (non turbo) that will tow any better. It is indeed towing nirvana especially if you have the floor shift for easy downshifting.

I just returned from a trip down the Blue Ridge Parkway, and I got 14.0 mpg- I tow very gently.

Dan
I totally agree! Even some of my friends that are import doubters are considering Tundras since I bought this one (my second Tundra). One of my friends that has only owned Chevy trucks and refused to buy anything else just called me as giddy as a kid to let me know he bought a Tundra today!
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:33 PM   #37
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I own a 1970 27' AS , I tow it with a 2004 1500 Suburban with tow package and sway/load lift hitch. I have towed it over 6000 miles this way, last trip was to so cal and back to Wash state 3400 miles, not one problem, no overheating of motor or trans. It works perfectly, love it......
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:04 PM   #38
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I have an 05 1500 Silverado 5.3L and 3:73 rear. I pull a 25' A/S with no problem. I live in Florida and if I pull through the mountains, I don't use overdrive and run in regular drive. I get around 10 MPG pulling the trailer, sometimes better but never over 12 MPG. I find running at 70 MPH is better for me than 60 and I get better mileage because I can use overdrive. I would have no qualms about pulling a 25 or 27 with my Silverado. Mine has 72k miles and I service it myself which means only that I change the fluids, check torques and clean the air cleaner. You should have no problem. My hitch is a Draw Tite equalizing hitch with an anti sway bar. Hope this helps. JT
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:59 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

A slight bend in your Reese bars, won't give you the sway control that is best.

Because of the tow vehicle stiffness, drop the bar rating down to 750.

Then, the bars will bend about 2 inches, giving you sway control that is top notch.

The heavier duty the tow vehicle, the lighter the bars should be. That's been proven by many owners in a different thread.

Andy
Thanks Andy. I have ordered Reese 800 lbs trunnion bars to replace the 1200 lbs ones.

Elsewhere on the forum I have read about the use of an AirSafe hitch to reduce shock loading to the trailer. Is this only necessary for heavier TV's with stiff suspensions, or would it be recommended in my case?
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:44 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMT
...Elsewhere on the forum I have read about the use of an AirSafe hitch to reduce shock loading to the trailer. Is this only necessary for heavier TV's with stiff suspensions, or would it be recommended in my case?
The Air Safe essentially uncouples the ball mount vertical motion by putting it on an airbag. I believe it was originally developed to provide a softer ride for livestock in trailers. It found a niche in the towable RV market when they expanded from goosenecks to fifth wheels and then travel trailers. While not a 100% solution for those rhythmic jounces that plague some of us on certain concrete roads, it noticeably reduces the harshness. I also don't feel small bumps I felt in the X as the trailer tires pass over them. Missing the 2nd bump-bump gave me cause early on to look in the mirror to be sure she was still back there!

The Air Safe is not inexpensive, but I hope it will prove to be worthwhile in the long term when it comes to popped rivets and missing screws and what usually lurks behind that. Taking Andy's recommendations to heart, I've also "upgraded" my Reese Dual Cam bars from 1200# to 800#, made the appropriate adjustments and have been very please with the results. The cushions in the 27FB don't stray nearly as far as they used to.

Air Safe sells several models based on tongue weight... When using a WD hitch you want to go up in size as the floating ball mount hardware needs to be stouter because of the torsional demands imposed by the WD hardware.
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