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Old 06-27-2009, 11:52 AM   #1
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08 Tundra Brake issues

OK my neighbor has an 08 Tundra. He started off very proud, but it quikly turned into concern. He is plagued with vibrations, when brakes are applied. He has had 1 brakes job already at the dealer and currently has 10000 miles on it, and his problem is back.

We lifted it up in his garage, tires spin free, its not a caliper hang up, or over brakeing on drivers part. I went on Truck forums, turns out he is not the only one with the problem. But no one knows a cure.

My opinion is after market slotted rotors, to disipate heat , and cermic pads. All this been said:

has anyone here been here before? and what rotors did you use and how do you like them, would you reccomend a rotor?

if you have heard of a fix for this, share it please?

The mechanic at the dealer says, he has seen alot of this, and people are coming back a few times for fixes, but the problem isnt getting solved. Then says all he does is replace and document is service.

I told him he might contact the BBB. He has been a proud owner, and I think his pride is getting the best of him here.
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Old 06-27-2009, 02:19 PM   #2
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This shouldn't come as any big shock after seeing these:

YouTube - Ford F150 vs Toyota Tundra - Frame Strength

YouTube - Ford F150 vs Chevy vs Toyota - Bed Bounce
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Old 06-27-2009, 02:33 PM   #3
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After seeing these two videos and reading of the Tundra brake problems. IT just confirms what I have contended all along ,that these trucks are just that LITE DUTY TRUCKS and are really not capable of a lot of longevity and serviceablility over the long haul. Yes people are buying them because they are cheaper and they think they are getting a deal but at the end of the day I don't think they are. Just my opinion.
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Old 06-27-2009, 02:49 PM   #4
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I think the trucks have merit, and clearly have power and some good things, but to be honest, I feel they are shown and given 3/4 ton specs with 1/2 ton hardware.

I really think these trucks do a good job for average use, but I don't consider towing a 7000+ trailer average use. I know some will bitterly disagree with my take and say that I'm being a domestic snob, but the domestics do have a path from 1/2 to 3/4. When that path makes it to the non-domestics (meaning companies that are domestically owned) I think there will be some real competition similar to that of the cars out there, but the trucks IMHO are still owned by GM, Ford and Chrysler are the real workhorses here. Not that it will last forever, but to add to it, I've put my money where my keyboard is, and bought a domestic 3/4 ton based on all the research and info I could find. Though I love GM drive lines, but I don't blindly accept all that is given. If Toyota, Nissan or Honda made what my Burb could do and have the hardware to support it, I may consider it.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:55 AM   #5
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Hi, any vehicle with disc brakes is capable of having this concern. Simply put, rotors warp due to over heating. If you tow a trailer, make sure the trailer brakes do their part in stopping instead of making the truck do it all. When going down hills or grades, down shift your transmission and let the engine help slow you down. Don't ride your brakes all the way down the hill. keep you foot off of the brake pedal unless you are actually using it to stop. Don't try to stop in ten feet from fifty miles per hour. This is what causes the rotors to warp and while working at new car dealers since 1968 as a mechanic, service advisor, and shop foreman, customers always deny doing anything wrong to warp the rotors. On the other side of the fence, some vehicles have rotors that warp easier than others.
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Old 06-28-2009, 10:23 AM   #6
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You can refer to 1/2 ton sway test for what i think of these test. Which isn't much as they are unrealistic. The frame flex means nothing for the 1/2 ton which what it is. If you use it as a 3/4 ton you are a fool..... It's not one......

This would have no effect on the breaks. IT's a whole different issue...

These test are marketing for purposes only. They don't explain an advantage or disadvantage with the tests.

Personally I would like a little flex for a 1/2 ton, I don't like to be bounced down the road. And if you are driving over bumps that fast your a fool too.

Don't use a 1/2 ton as a 3/4 ton.
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Old 06-28-2009, 10:56 AM   #7
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My take is that they are all great trucks and that if the engineering has not been put into the vehicles to make them the best possible, it's not shocking that folks will say, hey I bought this because Toyota marketed it as....or GM marketed this as and be shocked when they find as all builders do, marketing is what sells. For those in the know, most of us do a lot more research and understand the engineering behind a lot of the marketing claims. The Japanese take a beating because they show the truck doing these ridiculous things in their commercials which are also just as much marketing as the Ford "tests". I however do put a bit more stock in the Ford tests than watching a Toyota Tundra on the equiv of ski jump.

It's no secret that I'm not the biggest of Ford fans out there, but in reality, at least here in Chicago, where the pot holes can be as large as a Hyundai (and are EVERYWHERE), you don't need to go fast over them to get body flex. I was a bit disappointed in GMs showing of those tests as well FWIW and I fully subscribe to the fact that some flex isn't bad. Of course like most things, one can easily slant a position to one's way of thinking...happens in courtrooms every day.....

In the end everyone is going to do what they want and opinions are like behind, everyone has one, myself included. My hope is that folks really do their homework and not buy into all the marking that is out there. Underneath all the marketing are the real answers.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:33 PM   #8
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This thread is being transformed into something else, We were hoping to get input, from other people with brake issue's. We have confirmed they are out there, no mention of a reacll yet. There are very little upgrades he can choose from, because when you walk into a parts stor, and tell them what you want, your what the problem is, they say what did you expect, look what ya bought. We were hoping to weed threw all that.

As stated earlier the mechanic confirmed the problems with the Tundra, But Toyota hasnt got a fix, so we were hoping for after market.
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:41 PM   #9
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Since the Tundra is still under warranty, I'd exhaust all of Toyota's free resources before exploring aftermarket solutions. Also, some of those may void the remaining warranty.

There have been some reports of warped rotors on www.tundratalk.net, but I think some of the problems are people installing aftermarket stuff and/or overtorquing the wheel lug nuts. You may find more information on this problem on that site, as there are a few members that work at the Tundra factory in San Antonio or are Toyota certified mechanics.

So far, no problem on our 2008 Tundra CrewMax, but it is strictly stock...
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Old 06-28-2009, 03:48 PM   #10
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I would take it back to the dealer and get them to put new rotors on it and see if it fixes it. My dealer put in a new radio when i requested because the buttons stopped working a couple off times.. They had no problem with it...

If there is enough of them out there, they may have had a bad batch.

Did they replace them?
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:25 PM   #11
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he has had 1 brake job done already, and he is going to have a second. He as about 10000 miles on it, While he does not want to void the warranty, and everything has been replaced once with suck low mileage, and the reaction from the Toyota service tech. All things considered.

No lift kit, Stock truck, except soft toneau cover. Dealer does his work, tires rotatins and oil services.

He was hoping to find somebdy else, who found a fix. On truck forums there is a guy there also. He was going to post there, but people beet him to it, with no fix found. He is contacting the BBB this week after his appt at the dealer, if they cant say we found the cause.

While I know of lug nuts being torqued out of rotation, or cross pattern, and excessive braking or heavy loads. I was and mentioned to him to have the dealer check the residual valve functions, and the proportioning valve, incase it is not letting fluid back to the mastercylinder, and it lands up held up in a caliper intermitantly or a fauly abs??
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:15 PM   #12
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Update

The dealer put on after market Mettalic pads, and after market rotors. He says it stops way better... Night and day. Now for longevity. Time will tell.

He is all proud of his gold colored slotted rotors I dont know why they did that but hey, he is happy.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:39 PM   #13
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thanks for the update. Im using a 2008 tundra crew cab limited all stock so far no problems. But will keep this in mind. thanks.
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:58 PM   #14
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There may be something to the bad batch and driving style theories. My 08 Tundra has 10000+ and drives perfectly.
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