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Old 07-17-2009, 05:09 AM   #15
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2009 30' Classic
Salem , Alabama
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I purchased a 2008 T new in Jan 2008. One 7000 mile trip towing a light wt T. Traded it in April 2008. Had several problems with that unit. MY son in-law, had brake issues with his 2007 T. However, he purchased a new 2008 T, and so far, no complains. woppa4

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Old 07-17-2009, 08:29 AM   #16
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As a mechanic myself that has done more brake jobs than I could ever count I would have to say that the rotors from the dealer are just not well made. More than likely they have a low rockwell hardness or some other impurities in the steel causing them too warp prematurely and not be able to handle the heat from normal braking. I suggest just going to Napa for replacement rotors and ask for the Canadian made and not the Korean made. This could solve the problem as long as there is not a problem with the calipers not releasing all the way and putting drag on the rotors all the time. If that is the case it would show itself when the brakes are hot after driving rather then when they are cool. Just jack it up after driving and have the brakes nice and warm and spin the tire. There should not be much resistance or drag.

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Old 07-17-2009, 09:07 AM   #17
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Vibration? Does it pulse or is it more like a sound? Warped rotors will pulse the brake pedal as they plush the pads back against the hydraulic pressure. Vibration at a higher frequency can be a problem between the pad and the rotor contact angles. Ideally, you would like the leading edge(the edge furthest advanced in the direction of rotation of the rotor) of the pad to touch first, i.e. it should have a little toe-in. Some manufacturers make a shim that fits between the pad and caliper piston that is cut-out to accomplish this. They are usually thin stainless steel.
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Old 07-17-2009, 09:50 AM   #18
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Calgary , Alberta
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If you poke around a bit on I think you'll discover that Tundras (particularly the 1st gen ones) have long been plagued with front brake problems. We have a 2000 tundra with 200k km (125k Miles) on it and didn't experience any problems until last year when we started getting a similar pulsing vibration as what you describe, especially when slowing from highway speeds through about 50kph (30mph) where it seemed to get worse. I had the rotors machined vs. replacing them and haven't had a problem since.

Mechanical and design issues aside, I think this also has a lot to do with driving habits. I tend to go really easy on braking, give lots of distance and use the engine braking feature (turning off OD) a lot, which I think has really extended brake life. In fact, I know it has because we haven't replace our pads yet and they still have 60% on 'em.
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:12 AM   #19
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Kent , Ohio
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From what I know, it isnt mine, This was an issue of repeatid warping of rotors under moderate conditons, Meening he tows a 5000 lbs trailer, and all systems functioning correctly.

I agree with NAPA parts as stated ( not Korean) it is also what I use. His was and is under warranty, the dealer is aware of the problem, so is Toyota... Poor parts, bad design.. isolted issue.. who knows.

Here are facts, Rotors warped under warranty, brakes have been replaced rpoblem returns, all brake jobs done with in 10000 miles.

The dealer now used after market pads and rotors, calipers. It is a vast improvment from original equipment. now time will tell if problem corrected.

No problem was found with original calipers. now discoloring indicative of over heating, or glazing. Just warped rotors. go figure.
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:10 PM   #20
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Talk about braking power and thrust!
The C17 that I watched at our airshow is 277,000 lbs empty and with 166,000 lbs of cargo on board it can stop within 3000 ft and reverse back into the original touch down point very quickly... Now can your Toyota do that?! lol.. just bored here...

"Old fashioned service on your late model Airstream"
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Old 07-17-2009, 03:32 PM   #21
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I have an '02 Tundra and replaced my OEM rotors and pads at about 65,000 miles when the rotors started to judder. You can research brake problems using the phrase "brake judder". Many other Tundra owners faced the very same problem, and so did Dodges, Fords, and GM's. My solution was to go to aftermarket Brembo slotted rotors and Performance Friction carbon metalic pads. I ordered the Brembo rotors off the internet and purchased the Performance Friction pads at Autozone. After nearly 70,000 miles the Brembo rotors and Performance Friction pads are doing just fine! Of that 70,000 miles about 40,000 miles were pulling my '97 25' Excella. Last fall, we spent a month camping in Colorado, many mountain passes, lots of braking and they came thru in perfect condition. Last check, they looked like they had over half their useful life remaining.

I chose the Brembo slotted rotors over the "slotted and drilled" or "drilled only" because others had problems with drilled rotors cracking. I chose Brembo because of their reputation for quality. I chose Performance Friction pads based on the glowing recommendation of other Tundra owners.
So Long!
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Old 07-17-2009, 06:16 PM   #22
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I should have added, many owners became enraged at Toyota for not solving the problem quickly. They became so enraged that they sold their vehicles at huge losses. It never occured to them that the brand they were going to replace it with had brake judder problems also. As for my solution, the Brembo rotors (made in Mexico) were about $195 shipped and the pads were under $30, and installation took 45 minutes, so for about $225 I made the problem go away. Makes all that rage seem pretty silly.
So Long!
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:07 AM   #23
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I have a 2010 Tundra CrewCab Max. I am reading this post, with intrest and I will keep this in mind when I go to our first rally in Oct. I have hauled a 27' Air Stream (only 160 klms) and my 32' Excella (only about 1 klm) but expect to put about 8000 klms (5000 miles) in Oct. I will be sure to let you know if the 2010s have the same brake problems.
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:54 AM   #24
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Bob Thompson is correct. Go to quality after market slotted rotors and matching pads. Don't waste time and money with oem parts or machining rotors. When rotors are machined, they get thinner and more likely to warp again.
The problem isn't exclusive to Tundras. Many factory brake systems are not up to the task of towing lots of miles in the mountains even with proper driving techniques.
If there is wear or slack in the front end, there will be a shudder even if the rotors are not warped.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:05 AM   #25
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I would recommend PowerSlot Cryo rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff pads. Not cheap, but nothing good ever is.
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:18 AM   #26
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27,000 miles with an '07 Double cab and brakes work fine. More than half those miles towing.

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Old 08-22-2009, 07:47 PM   #27
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2008 Tundra 4x4 TRD Double Cab

A 5.7 liter engine and 28,000 miles without complaint. I will report anything that becomes a problem, if and when that happens during my ownership. Brakes are fine on mountain roads, trails and asphalt.

My Snug Top shell has plenty of odd leaks... though, that get attention more often than the Tundra. Slowly getting them located and "plugged". A wet year for the Rockies and I can find those leaks.

My Tundra complaint: The spare tire is like the cheap steel wheel on the Airstream, provided at the factory for a spare tire. The Tundra did not even match the Goodyear A/T tires but used a street tire Michelin. I had to purchase the matching wheel and Goodyear. I do not need mismatched tires when needing a spare tire and towing. Cheap, cheap, cheap for both Toyota and Airstream.
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Old 08-22-2009, 10:48 PM   #28
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Edmonton , Alberta
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IMO, heavy duty trucks should have drum rear brakes. I had a company Ram2500 that needed new rotors and callipers after 7000km, because the rear callipers seized after driving a muddy gravel road. When I had a '06 Tundra (pre-redesign) with drums, I never needed a brake job.

I've had the auto mechanics tell me the best thing they ever did was put disc brakes on pickups, because they are a cash machine for the repairs.

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