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Old 01-19-2012, 09:57 PM   #15
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Frozen pies, eh? I had a few bad ones in the past but none that have reduced me to tears.
LOL! I'll make you a few more, Mr. Toad! We'll just see if we can't manage that weeping...
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:57 PM   #16
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The water lines are not the only things that have water in them that can freeze. Remember your sink and more importantly the shower trap in the drain lines. Simple to protect - just pour RV antifreeze in them to displace most of the water. One gallon lasts me a couple of years for this purpose. Water tank needs to be drained. One more thing to check - the fridge drain line and the AC drain pan. The AC pan should be empty but check the fridge drain to make sure it does not have a kink in it inside the fridge compartment that will hold water.
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:58 PM   #17
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P.S. Slightly more seriously, tomorrow I'm going to make lemon curd to bring with me. For, yes, pies as well as the morning toast.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:08 PM   #18
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Maybe now is the time to drain the water and blow the water lines out with compressed air. Use the rv antifreeze in the traps. Or add a small electric heater and set the furnace to its lowest temperature.
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:57 AM   #19
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Monica,

On our 2011 International the gas regulator, the thing with the switch that sits between the two LPG tanks, is automatic in as much as whichever way the lever is facing, when one tank runs out the other kicks in automatically (assuming it has some LPG in it). You only need to switch the lever when you're disconnecting a tank. Of course on your slightly earlier model that might not be the case but it may be worth checking if you have your manual.

Frozen pies, eh? I had a few bad ones in the past but none that have reduced me to tears.
Wow, this is really, really good to know -- but I'm not sure ours has this great feature. When I checked the tank upon my departure -- the full tank was, well completely full. Then yesterday when I discovered what I had done (er--not done) the full tank, was still full -- if it went through any amount of propane, the reading should have gone down even just a little.

But who knows, because if it was running on an empty tank -- why was my water heater on and still heating?

I'm definitely going to call Airstream (of Spokane) and see what the dealio is with my switch.

Thank you soooo much!!
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:04 AM   #20
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The water lines are not the only things that have water in them that can freeze. Remember your sink and more importantly the shower trap in the drain lines. Simple to protect - just pour RV antifreeze in them to displace most of the water. One gallon lasts me a couple of years for this purpose. Water tank needs to be drained. One more thing to check - the fridge drain line and the AC drain pan. The AC pan should be empty but check the fridge drain to make sure it does not have a kink in it inside the fridge compartment that will hold water.
I have a gallon of that pink stuff in my garage. It's useless in my garage -- so thank you -- this morning upon waking, guess what I did? Poured it down those drains.

As for the fridge, as you referring to that white drain line that comes from the cooling racks (or whatever you call them)?? Is that what I am checking for kinks?

Sorry, hubby is usually better at these things than me but I can't reach him to ask (stuck at a ski area due to road closures -- and no reception)!

Thank you so much for your help.
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:09 AM   #21
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Monica,

Your trailer has the automatic switch over propane valve. I have the same trailer.

Did you open BOTH of the tank valves when you filled them? When both of the valves are open, the switch will automatically draw from the full tank when the first tank is empty. At that point, if you look at the device you will see red in the glass window and the switch will be pointing to the empty tank. You can turn the empty tank valve off, flip the switch to the full tank, take the empty tank in and get it filled. Return it to the trailer, connect it and open the valve. Now you are set.

The guys in Spokane are great to work with. If you have done all the proper set up, they most likely will want to check the valve and I don't think you would want to drive over the pass for them to see things. Isn't there a new dealer in Seattle?
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:09 AM   #22
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Maybe now is the time to drain the water and blow the water lines out with compressed air. Use the rv antifreeze in the traps. Or add a small electric heater and set the furnace to its lowest temperature.
Hi Cosmos and thank you. I've got the electric heater going and the furnace is set to 55. This morning when I woke up (and after reading this suggestion here on AIR) I poured that pink antifreeze liquid down the drain (I remembered we had a gallon of it in our garage - useless there!). I feel confident my Airstream survived. But what a lesson it was for me.

Thank you so much for your advice. Honestly, everyone here is so kind!! The blowing of the water lines out with a compressor is something I am going to explore how to do. Thank you!
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:14 AM   #23
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Wow, this is really, really good to know -- but I'm not sure ours has this great feature. When I checked the tank upon my departure -- the full tank was, well completely full. Then yesterday when I discovered what I had done (er--not done) the full tank, was still full -- if it went through any amount of propane, the reading should have gone down even just a little.

But who knows, because if it was running on an empty tank -- why was my water heater on and still heating?

I'm definitely going to call Airstream (of Spokane) and see what the dealio is with my switch.

Thank you soooo much!!
The regulator on a 2006 should be auto-switching, though of course mechanical things fail from time to time.

For the auto-switching to work, the valves on both tanks need to be open. Just maintaining the delta from 30ish to 55 for one night shouldn't use a huge amount of propane, and I don't think tank gauges are very precise, are they?
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:17 AM   #24
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Monica,

Your trailer has the automatic switch over propane valve. I have the same trailer.

Did you open BOTH of the tank valves when you filled them? When both of the valves are open, the switch will automatically draw from the full tank when the first tank is empty. At that point, if you look at the device you will see red in the glass window and the switch will be pointing to the empty tank. You can turn the empty tank valve off, flip the switch to the full tank, take the empty tank in and get it filled. Return it to the trailer, connect it and open the valve. Now you are set.

The guys in Spokane are great to work with. If you have done all the proper set up, they most likely will want to check the valve and I don't think you would want to drive over the pass for them to see things. Isn't there a new dealer in Seattle?
Aftermath -- thank you SOOO much!!! This is great to hear from you since you have the same trailer !! Also great news about the automatic switch. Yes, I opened both valves when the tanks were full. As a matter of fact, I make it a habit to keep both open when we are using the gas.

We are actually heading up north to Canada for some cat skiing here in a few weeks and will be stopping by Airstream of Spokane (they are along the way to our destination) to say hello and get our Airstream a "check up" and hopefully a clean bill of heath prior to our trip. Otherwise we would probably take it to Airstream of Seattle since they are closer.

Thank you sooo much! What a relief about that switch!
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:21 AM   #25
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..... I don't think tank gauges are very precise, are they?
I am beginning to think not because one of my tanks read it was completely empty while the other was completely full. Temps dipped down to 25 and when I checked on her the following day both tanks looked identical in fuel levels as the prior night. Also my hot water heater was on and functioning...

Oiy -- did that make sense? I think I need to go have some coffee now...
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:28 AM   #26
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Gauges of that kind of too imprecise and too subject to failure to count on them too much. That's why fillers are not permitted to rely on them for filling.

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Old 01-20-2012, 12:15 PM   #27
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Do older (mine is a 94) models automatically switch from one tank to the other when the first runs empty? My manual is not with me and I too am in the midst of this PNW less than tropical weather pattern.
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Old 01-20-2012, 12:50 PM   #28
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On a recent trip to Denver, we had our fresh water supply line freeze on three different occasions; all without damage. The next day, when the outside temperature rose, they thawed with no leaks.

During the day, we left the propane furnace on, set at the lowest setting, which kept our Bambi at about 50 degrees, inside. In the evenings, we set it at about 65 degrees until bedtime, then lowered the thermostat to about 55.

No problems with drain pipes, or fresh/gray/black water tanks; just the fresh water supply line. It's easy to tell when it freezes, because the pump won't run.

The line didn't freeze during numerous 12-15 degree nights. However, on those three occasions, it got down to about 3 degrees. One of those nights, the wind-chill was minus 15 degrees.

After the first night, we bought some "pink stuff" (RV antifreeze) with active ingredient propylene glycol, which is safe if accidentally ingested. The sales person said to add one or two gallons to the 15 gallons remaining in the fresh water tank, run it through the hot water heater and cold water lines until pink foamy liquid came out of all faucets; and we would be OK. I mentioned that the label said the product protected against freezing down to -50 degrees at full strength, but it didn't say anything about mixing it with fresh water. He said that even a 1/15 mix was better than the 32 degrees of (no) protection we had now; and that we didn't need to protect to -50, only 5-10 degrees, as our water would remain slushy and not freeze hard. We added two gallons to the 15 gallons of fresh water in our tank.

On the two later occasions, the fresh water lines froze, just as before.

I put some of the pink foamy liquid in a used water bottle and put in our freezer. In the morning, it was frozen solid; and the thermometer in the freezer read 15 degrees. So much for mixing RV antifreeze with fresh water...

In any case, our Bambi survived the cold weather vacation with only the slight inconvenience of no running water during the three coldest nights.

By the way, our propane tanks each lasted 6-7 days in weather that averaged about 35-45 degrees during the day and 3-15 at night.

Cold weather tip: Wait until mid-afternoon on a day when the outside temperature is above freezing to dump gray and black water tanks. With luck, the dump valves will thaw by then, if frozen. Otherwise, a gallon or two of hot water in each tank may help thaw the valves.
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