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12-06-2002, 09:58 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
2001 34' Limited
The State of
, Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,605
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This reference says 4% for every 1000' above 500'. So they're getting 4% at 1500' vs the 3.5% at 1000'. And it wouldn't surprise me if some are closer to 5% per thousand if they're jetted a little rich at sea level.
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Maurice
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12-06-2002, 10:06 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
2001 34' Limited
The State of
, Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,605
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Re: Don't forget the Vodka..... Boris.
Quote:
Originally posted by hex
Is it the consensus of most that the cold gain (or is it heat loss) thru the belly is greater than thru the walls or top?
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No. Most home energy references recommend much more insulation in the ceiling than the floor. This is because the air stratifies, there's more heat at the ceiling than the floor, and the amount of transfer (loss) is based on the difference between the indoor and outdoor temps (controlled by the R-rating).
And that outdoor temp isn't the absolute temperature either... it's the wind chill factor. Most homes have the foundation blocked so that the wind can't get below (hence the need for much less insulation)... that's what you're mainly doing when skirting a trailer... blocking the wind.
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Maurice
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12-07-2002, 02:19 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 94
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Keylime,
Great link
Ron
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12-08-2002, 08:45 AM
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#24
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1 Rivet Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 19
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Out of respect for Rubyslipper's initial post, I didn't want to get too far off thread, so I posed a new topic on diesel stoves. However, the company that got my interest does sell diesel heaters, made specifically for enclosed spaces (marine use). It could be an interesting alternative, just thought I would throw this into the mix.
http://www.dickinsonmarine.com/shop/...es-heaters.asp
regards...
Keylime
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12-09-2002, 08:32 AM
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#25
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2 Rivet Member
1995 30' Limited
Warsaw
, Missouri
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 79
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Winter Living
Oh my gosh! This has turned into a huge project.We or should better say HE decided after talking to "Tim the Tool Guy" at Home Depot for 2 hours on Sat, to construct a frame from 2x2 treated wood. To this he is putting a foil applied to styofoam insullation board. One side is black the other is silver ( matches the A/S). Over this he will staple 6 ml black plastic. Each frame is independent due to surface of ground not being level.SO far it looks like it will work.Did I tell you that we had to make 2 trips to HD..120 miles. And the phone line under the trailer where we cant reach it broke as did the end of the water hose after I spent over an hour wrapping heat tape and insulating it.Seems the gasket is too hard and after He twisted it around several times the fitting thingy was no good. Grrrrrr! Anyway we have all these little wood frames laying around waitting for the insulation to be cut and nailed in place. But they will wait ..I have to go do laundry.
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12-09-2002, 10:03 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master
2001 34' Limited
The State of
, Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,605
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Ask him how he's going keep humidity from building up un the trailer with that 6 mil plastic sealing it in. Tyvek would look pretty tacky, so you probably are going to need some vents, especially considering the foam has foil vapor barrier on it.
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Maurice
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12-09-2002, 02:23 PM
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#27
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 222
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Hey Moe I think this is just a temporary underskirting job, do you really think there would be much moisture damage from a couple months of humidity? Plus I doubt the frames will fit all too tight, maybe allowing a little moisture out on a sunny day?
How much "humidity" gets underneath driving along a wet highway?
If Ruby & her hub can just still the air exchange under the trailer I guess it will give her a little respit. Gonna sure look like Arkansas though!
Now if they were gonna keep it penned up for a long spell I would agree with your concerns Moe.
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12-09-2002, 03:56 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
LOST
, Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
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I agree this needs to be vented. Going into winter the ground is always damp, fall rains and early snows that melt before the ground freezes. If you seal this tight all that moisture will evaporate and ice over everything you have sealed up. Warm days also will be more humid, the moisture will freeze in the shade. Putting plastic on the ground for a vapor barrier will help, but it needs a lot of vent.
I wonder if what you are doing isn't self defeating. It is going to freeze under the trailer, that is a given. During the day you are going to 'store' the cold under this, no sun and a little warmer air to keep the ground temp up, insulation holding the cold in. It seems like you will be keeping this area at a lower temp than the surrounding earth. It would help for really cold spells, but overall I think you are making a big insulated ice cube beneath the trailer.
Water from the road is a lot different. If it gets inside the belly pan it will run back out, not freeze and stay. Ice will build up as long as it is below freezing.
John
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12-09-2002, 05:31 PM
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#29
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2 Rivet Member
1995 30' Limited
Warsaw
, Missouri
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 79
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Winter Living
First off...it "aint gonna look like Arkansaw" and second you are right the fit wont be super tight and air circulation will be suffient enough to ward off that much humidity happening. Besides HE has a light bulb thingy that he plans to turn on when ever he sees a problem. And on sunny days I will open opposing sides for air to circulate.Think we got a handle on this one. Besides we arent using hay..Arkansaw,I never.This is Missouri.Hehe not much difference. Beautiful terain. The skirting is on hold until the phone wire and the water connection is fixed.
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12-09-2002, 06:02 PM
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#30
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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these folks....
check out the trailer skirts on this site....WARNING!! don't go here without a sense of humor!
http://www.mytrailerpark.com/
john
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12-09-2002, 06:26 PM
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#31
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 917
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Awesome!!!!!!!!!!
Big J,
Thanks for the laughs!!!
John
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12-10-2002, 05:00 AM
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#32
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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alas, yet more...
here is another site with more good ideas for skirting.....
http://www.missouritrailertrash.com/index.html
again heed the above warning.....
john
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12-10-2002, 05:38 AM
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#33
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2 Rivet Member
1995 30' Limited
Warsaw
, Missouri
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 79
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Winter Living
Those pictures of Mo trailers are for real. I have seen some that make those on that web site look like the Ritz.A place not far has old burnt out water heaters for a privacy fence,at least an acre of fence!Thanks for the grin.
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12-10-2002, 07:52 AM
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#34
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 917
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keep em coming!
No great art than real life!!!!!!!!!
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12-11-2002, 07:08 AM
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#35
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2 Rivet Member
1995 30' Limited
Warsaw
, Missouri
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 79
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Winter Living
The frames are done up to the street side where all the hookups are. Have to study this a bit. Had several comments from other RV'ers in the park.All were good and some are considering the same application(rather than hay bales)... Phone problem turned out to be conflict with computer modem and phone being plugged in at same time. One lesson learned...dont buy cheap Walmart water hose.
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12-25-2002, 07:01 AM
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#36
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 917
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How are things working out?
Rubyslipper,
Just following up on how things have been going for you guys.
Any new insights that you can share on living in your A/S in cold weather?
John
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12-26-2002, 12:23 PM
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#37
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2 Rivet Member
1995 30' Limited
Warsaw
, Missouri
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 79
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Winter Living
John.The insullation frames seem to be a good thing so far.Temps havent gotten down there to really test. I have pics but cant figure out how to post them over yet but am working on it. We have found a small leak in what maybe our gray hold tank.Not happy about this but figure if we dont let the level get too high we should be ok until we can get it to dealer for "look see".The plastic over inside of windows is a must! The propane guy commented on the amount of fuel we burn compared to other "wintering" trailers is considerably less. I found a insullating blanket product at the local Ace Hardware that I am using with velcro to make a cover for the door. I also made a cover for the fantastic vent since there wasnt one. Works great.
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12-26-2002, 01:11 PM
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#38
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 917
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Plastic over the inside of windows?
Could you explain how this is helping and how did you attach the plastic to the inside of the windows?
I'm guessing that it's helping with the condersation? Am I correct on this?
Could you also explain about the insullating blanket? Is this attached inside? Is it cutting down on cold pockets?
I'm learning from your experience!!!
Sounds like you've learnt alot since first starting out! I'm happy to hear that your A/S is using less LP than the SOB's. Saving on LP is a beautiful thing.
Keep us updated as you learn more- John
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12-27-2002, 09:29 AM
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#39
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2 Rivet Member
1995 30' Limited
Warsaw
, Missouri
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 79
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Winter Living
The plastic is inside over the windows.Those kits with the tape and a hair dryer to seal. This is helping with drafts since we dont have storms. As for condensation.....nothing helps with that. Every day I crack the windows open just a bit to let air circulate the moisture off.We are having a heck of a time with the window in back over our heads in bedroom.Guess I could smother the husband with a pillow so he doesnt snore with mouth open so much.. . The insullation blanket is a neat product. Its bubble wrap sandwiched between an alumimum looking fabric. I cut to fit over the door and vent opening and used velcro to attach to trailer. I remove it during the day.I also have a piece of it in the storage area under our bed to help with the cold air that comes in from the rear door. Only time will tell how all this will work.Still trying to figure out how to post a photo...!
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12-27-2002, 09:39 AM
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#40
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Contributing Member
2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County)
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,164
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Foil=bubble=foil
My old Scamp was entirely insulated with the foil-bubble-foil insulation. The insulation was glued to the fiberglass shell with contact cement. Then, the insulation was sprayed with contact cement and a fuzzy fabric headliner was installed. The headliner was very much like the fabric in my 2003 International.
That Scamp was always a super warm trailer in the winter and air-conditioned very efficiently in the summer.
I made vent covers of the sulation and velcro that really helped heat loss at the vents.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2018 Interstate GT, "Sabre-Dog V"
WBCCI #9632
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