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Old 08-24-2013, 05:46 PM   #1
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Is the EDDIE BAUER ~ model the only...

Is the EDDIE BEYER ~ model the only... Where you can flick as switch as shown in the u tube video and keep your tanks warm in the cold winter mths??

We will be rving year round in times where its -25 and need this feature or we may install a wood stove but we are still confused whats best

We don't need the storage area but may go with this model for the winter aspect


Advise pls
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Old 08-24-2013, 05:59 PM   #2
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Howdy and welcome to Airforums, Happy Days!

I have seen that switch on other than the Eddie Bauer models, BUT I would not count on that alone keeping a nice fat fresh water tank thawed in Winnipeg...

You'll need more treatment than that, and for all three tanks, while you're at it.

Use the search and look up "winter living", and think you'll find lots of info...
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Old 08-24-2013, 06:46 PM   #3
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My '07 Safari 20' had the tank heaters. I think they are in the newer models where they couldn't duct the heat to the tanks.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:27 PM   #4
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No no we plan to move to Victoria

Winnipeg is temp brrrrrrr
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:21 AM   #5
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Could you point me to the video? or the switch that heats the tanks?

We have a 2012 EB 25'
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:37 AM   #6
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I have the warmers on my 2008 20' Safari Special Edition. From what I understand the reason my AS has those is because the tanks are positioned in such a way that you can't divert some of the heat of the furnace to keep the tanks warm. Therefore you have the tank warmers.

I for one wish that I did not have those and was able to use my furnace to keep the tanks warm.

-J
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:05 AM   #7
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The Eddie Bauer 25FB and 27FB have ducted heated tanks from the LP furnace. The 12V heated tanks are/were used on the 20C, 22C & 23C floor plans of Safari and Flying Cloud. Also the 22 International CCD and International AS.

Some people confuse the Water Heater switches in the Bathroom as waste/fresh tank heaters.
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:20 AM   #8
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Tank Heaters

I'm currently building custom gray and black tanks for a 64.

In the old days (I say that since I don't have the years memorized) the black and gray tanks would be below the floor (though some black tanks were above). The tank would be wrapped in fiberglass, and then another steel pan would hold the tank to the floor. A pipe would come off the furnace and enter the black tank area. This pipe would channel warm air from the furnace to the tanks to keep them from freezing.

Depending on the setup though, you can also get tank heater pads. These are flat pads that can run off of either 12v or 110. They would be run by a switch or thermostat. There are benefits and drawbacks to both systems, though I think there are more drawbacks to the pads. I installed a heatpump with heat strip in my trailer, and will mount my tanks to the floor and wrap them in mylar bubble sheets, but have not decided to put in the tank heaters as I just don't want to deal with the expense right now, and it doesn't get that cold for us. On really cold nights, I plan on just adding antifreeze to the tank, and keeping it as empty as possible. since it will have no insulation between the floor and the tank, I expect to get some heat transfer through the floor, and since the tank wall is 1/4" thick, and I'm wrapping all sides except what comes into contact with the floor, I expect to be able to handle all but the worst of the Virginia weather. That being said, I would feel better if I spent the $600 or so on tank heaters. I've just made a decision not to.

If your fresh water tank is in the trailer, you shouldn't have to worry about that one.

You will want to think about your fresh water hose inlet though. That should be wrapped in some sort of heat tape.

Lastly, if you're on full hookups, and leave the gray open, I would wonder if the actual "stinky slinky" would get gray water ice build up as it is outside and unheated in those conditions.

Finally, Airstreams are not designed for long term sub freezing temps. It's just something to think about. They have a minimal wall thickness, and lots of thermal bridging. I've had some inside storm windows made for my jalousie window, but other than that, the walls and windows get really cold.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpons View Post
I for one wish that I did not have those and was able to use my furnace to keep the tanks warm.
No one is keeping their tanks warm with the furnace, not even those of us with the ductwork. One 3" duct blowing on one small section of the tank in subfreezing weather is just not going to accomplish much. The one thing the ductwork might accomplish is keeping the valves from freezing.

My long term plans for our trailer is to install tank warmers and reroute the ductwork back into the cabin.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:48 AM   #10
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I made the move from a large SOB 5th wheel, quite deliberately, to Airstream.

And I won't go back.

But, as several have mentioned, the best way to keep an Airstream warm is to use the wheels.

Move SOUTH.

Other brands of trailers are much better suited to cold weather.

If one must stay in cold temps, the only real way to mind the tanks is to skirt the trailer and heat the space beneath it.

Regards,

JD
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:33 AM   #11
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I have a 2012 Eddie Bauer- and there is no tank warmer switch (as NeatStream noted).

Assuming its not constantly below freezing even during the day, AND the inside of the Airstream is being heated, wouldn't the radiant heat keep the tanks from freezing over? My bigger worry is the Sewer Solution line freezing. That is why I still kept my Stinky Slinky.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:52 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by jasperkins View Post
I have a 2012 Eddie Bauer- and there is no tank warmer switch (as NeatStream noted).

Assuming its not constantly below freezing even during the day, AND the inside of the Airstream is being heated, wouldn't the radiant heat keep the tanks from freezing over? My bigger worry is the Sewer Solution line freezing. That is why I still kept my Stinky Slinky.
We have had the Sewer Solution freeze, but so did the external water supply hose. If overnighting in these conditions and expecting warmer daytime temps I ensure the sewer solution is sloped to drain and disconnect water supply and drain that hose. The campground water supply spigot may also freeze if the valve is above ground; allowing it to flow ever so slightly can prevent that.
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