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Old 01-28-2013, 06:52 PM   #15
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Are any A/S trailers considered 4 season? I am asking about 2007 or newer. Is a Sport less insulated than an International or is a Classic the best insulated or are all A/S 2007 to new insulated all the same?
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:14 PM   #16
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Although I'm still new at all of this from everything I gather they are more like a 3 1/2 season trailer, not the best for super cold temps. I also believe the insulation is the same across all the current models. They did switch to the ecobatt insulation in 2013 from fiberglass but I don't think it changes the r value. The ribs do transfer cold from the out skin to the inner. Also, the windows are single pane glass. That being said, there are people using them in the winter and the newer ones do have heat ducts around the water tanks. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #17
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Our '65 Caravel does not seem to be very well insulated. Rain is loud. Fortunately, the A/C and heat work well enough to keep comfortable in all weather.

Our '83 Excella is insulated very well. We never hear rain unless it is really coming down hard. We were in a freak freeze at South Padre Island, with 1/2" of ice all around and ice cycles hanging on the trailer and the furnace kept is cozy and warm without running itself a lot. When we shut the door, most outside noise is gone. The walls are covered with vinyl down to the bottom of the windows, and a carpet material the rest of the way to the floor. That was factory installed. Love it.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:17 PM   #18
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Our '65 Caravel does not seem to be very well insulated. Rain is loud. Fortunately, the A/C and heat work well enough to keep comfortable in all weather.

Our '83 Excella is insulated very well. We never hear rain unless it is really coming down hard. We were in a freak freeze at South Padre Island, with 1/2" of ice all around and ice cycles hanging on the trailer and the furnace kept is cozy and warm without running itself a lot. When we shut the door, most outside noise is gone. The walls are covered with vinyl down to the bottom of the windows, and a carpet material the rest of the way to the floor. That was factory installed. Love it.
Jim, sorry to digress. My avatar shows my long gone 1947 British competitor to the US 47 Chev. Mine could tow a load of sticks to the fire pit. Morris 8.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:15 AM   #19
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Headwest - thanks for the reply and good useful information. 3 1/2 season would be fine as I never plan to winter in the northern tiers of the country. But will probably get stuck when the cold spells hit the middle of Florida, S. Texas or S. Arizona. The colderest I have been in was 19 degrees for a few hours last year in Florida.

Again thanks
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:40 PM   #20
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I just left NJ, been there 3 months working hurricane Sandy in my 1996 28 footer.

I had included Electricity, so I ran one space heater in the front, and one in the back.

This was fine till it hit the mid to low teens.

Then I needed to turn on the gas heat.

This is without doing anything to insulate the window other than drawing the curtains.
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:57 PM   #21
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I am planning on using some Reflectix insulation from Home Depot inside all the cabinets, lockers and ceilng. I will cover the insulation on the ceiling with vinyl. Dont know if it will help much, but couldn't hurt. The photo is from a 60s AS.
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Old 02-02-2013, 03:59 PM   #22
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Any idea on how the ceiling vinyl is held up? I am still planning to use a layer of reflect-stuff, a layer of 1/2 inch blue or pink foam, and a layer of some sort of paneling from the floor up to about 48". Like wainscoating. The vinyl/reflect combination looks like a good way for the ceiling. Along with a white rubber roof and high darkening film on the windows. Maybe it will stay warm or cool at appropriate times. (Of course, after I redo the floor, re-wire and replumb. Oh... and install new axle and new tires.)
Cheers,bill b.
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:26 PM   #23
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Any idea on how the ceiling vinyl is held up?
Cheers,bill b.
My upholstery guy said upholstery snaps. I don't think I will try and simulate the square lines but use the snaps in a square grid.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:04 PM   #24
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My upholstery guy said upholstery snaps. I don't think I will try and simulate the square lines but use the snaps in a square grid.
Sounds about right. I rode in an old Air Force C-47 that had been insulated in that way once, long ago. If I recall correctly that aircraft was built a lot like an airstream. And probably got an insulation upgrade when they decided to use it to carry people. It had some sort of button like holders, so I am guessing that upholstery snaps in a square pattern would look good. The inside was covered completely and was more puffy appearing. Maybe thicker fiberglass insulation.
Bill b.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:29 AM   #25
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It has been my experience this winter that the walls radiate cold. My solution has been the use of Reflectix (same as Prodex) against the windows on the inside. That was step one and it helped a lot.

Step two was to make covers for the ceiling vents from the same material.

Step three was to temporarily apply the Reflectix along the head of my bed using 3M Blue tape. I really don't want to mar up the interior with permanent "fixes", though I have thought of drilling out rivets and installing the Reflectix in the ceiling.
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:33 AM   #26
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Rather than paint that rubber coating stuff on the roof, consider using Super Therm paint. It has very effective insulating qualities which the rubber doesn't have. It's white and easier to work with.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:10 AM   #27
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Our "cocoon" remains warm in the winter with the furnace and an aux. heater in the LR as needed. The only significant problem is water condensation on the windows--addressed elsewhere. Our AS is much quicker to heat ( about 3 minutes) than our well insulated Fifth wheel and stays warm much longer.

I have read that those who live in very cold temps, skirt their AS, and run the heater often to protect the tanks and plumbing.

We have experienced freezing of the hose from the water source in cold temps, but this could obviously be resolved with heat tape.

All in all our AS seems to be well insulated. As stated above, it's probably a 3 season unit, and stretched to 3.5 with proper insulation. BTW, we once lived in Wyoming, and saw temps into the -50's.....!!!!! Zigi
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:11 PM   #28
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Hi, we have camped in freezing temperatures several times and had the frozen water hose to prove it. We use a small oil filled heater and our furnace. Our Safari has small windows, vinyl headliner, and mouse fur walls, this helps insulate our trailer better than some other models. Two big problems were air leaks at the door, which I fixed be adding a second weather seal around the door opening frame and the storage compartment door, which I installed a double seal around the door itself.
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