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Old 12-06-2017, 11:02 AM   #57
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We have been on the road for 3 months and spent 2 of those in Portland, OR. So humidity was a big problem. I chose an EcoSeb DD122EA-CLASSIC Desiccant Dehumidifier and did so over the compressor types for several reasons. 1.) It has a small foot print. 2.) It weights only 13lbs. 3.) It is quite as compared to the compressor type. 4.) It uses less electricity. 5.) It is very portable.

We have removed a quart of water overnight. It has been serving us well. We have a 2018 Model 28 AS with the front sofa. I can easily set the unit on the ledge behind the sofa on the street side. So it takes up very little room. At 13lbs, I move it to the floor when traveling. I have even ran it off the inverter when boondocking.

I hope this helps.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:47 PM   #58
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We've never used dehumidification in over ten years full time in our 25' Airstream CCD International. Ventilation always, catalytic (Wave 6 Olympian) whenever it's cold, and furnace whenever it's gonna be near or below freezing. If temps aren't going near freezing then we'll run a small ceramic electric heater plus the catalytic. The catalytic keeps us toasty and the electric heater or furnace keep the rest of the trailer above 50 or 60.

If we didn't mind blowing through 30# of propane every week we could just use the furnace to keep the interior temp at 68F and the catalytic to keep us feeling warmer. But the catalytic is a lot stingier with propane than the furnace and the radiant heat feels great. Venting is key - some details on how we make that work are at my web page (items #12 and 15) showing the Salem Vent on the sidewall and the Olympian Wave6 heater mounted so it can always aim at Debbie wherever she's seated.

We've never had condensing moisture on our walls or ceiling, and never had puddles anywhere (except in Alaska when we left the water pump on, the lab faucet bounced open and the drain popped closed - that was a 20gal puddle!). Sometimes we get condensate on the windows, especially the vista view windows. Like Bob said we don't want to have to do it every day but we occasionally will wipe off the windows to cut the interior moisture. That mostly happens on unseasonably cold days in Florida where the humidity forgot to go down when it got cold.

Some things we do to manage interior humidity are these:
Try to shower early in the evening so towels have a chance to dry before bedtime;
Always run the shower fan and the furnace throughout the shower time;
Always squeegee and dry the shower;
Usually run the range hood fan when cooking stovetop;
Always keep the Salem vent fully open and the rear fantastic fan open 1-1.5" whenever parked (Maxxair Fan cover allows this even when raining).
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Old 12-07-2017, 02:34 AM   #59
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A Salem Vent is a great idea (didn’t know the name, but have used them 20-yrs + in big truck sleepers). I much appreciate being made aware of their use with a roof vent in a high/low “trailer length” passive ventilation scheme, thanks!!
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Old 12-07-2017, 06:40 AM   #60
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Hi TXiceman,
First, after reviewing my psychometrics, I find my mental capacity declining rapidly!
Second, I agree with your statement about reducing the RH but I was thinking that this device was not used to heat the cabin and that the air it heated ( now with a reduced relative humidity) would cool as it moved away from the device and would regain relative humidity because it still had the same amount of moisture in it. As a result, the overall humidity in the closed system of the AS would be unchanged if the temperature remains constant in the cabin.
Am I missing an important element?
Thanks,
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:04 AM   #61
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All I can say is, what I'm doing seems to be working.

I'm camping at Bayou Segnette State Park, Westwego, LA. Outside temperature 47°F, relative humidity 74% after about 24 hours straight of light rain.

Inside temperature 68°F throughout, relative humidity 40%, despite allowing my raingear to air-dry in the wet bath (door closed, vent fan on)— and I haven't even used my dehumidifier or electric heater so far this trip. No condensation on any windows or elsewhere.
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:33 AM   #62
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Protag,
I had no doubt your system works and needs to. Your conditions are much more challenging than ours currently - no rain since 30 hours ago; 29 degrees; dew point is 19 degrees. So yeah, the trailer's windows were all dry this morning. And running the catalytic, furnace, and ceramic portable I've moved the interior from 44 an hour ago to 59 now. Debbie's probably gonna crawl out of bed when it gets above 62 inside or she finishes her 2nd cup of tea.

I enjoy reading your solutions on the forum. Your answers are descriptive and helpful. Thanks!

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Old 12-09-2017, 10:37 AM   #63
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skirting question

We've been in northern Colorado in our 27 FB since late September. It's gotten down to 14 deg. already. We are in a campground, and have been running three small electric heaters along with the furnace. It looks like we are going to take the trailer to Texas and spend the rest of the winter in it. I have been looking at skirting ( emailed the RV skirt people here in Colorado but never got a reply and didn't follow up) and I have some questions. Vinyl is just not much of a thermal barrier. It would certainly cut the cold wind going under the trailer to zero, but in a steady biting cold I just don't see it holding much heat. I've been reading the threads about using sheets of insulation foam, and this seems to make more sense both thermally and financially for a trailer that will be in a fixed location for several months.

Do any of you have any comparison data on using thin sheets of vinyl sheeting vs something like a nominal 1" thick sheet of foam? The foam would be a one-time use throw-away, but it looks like it could be done for way less than $100.

Any info on what it should cost to buy professionally fit vinyl sheeting for a 27 ft. trailer? And where do you store all that folded vinyl when traveling?

I think I'm liking the foam ideas.
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:13 AM   #64
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I’d keep at the skirting people.

Under the TT it’s really more a matter of cutting loss by wind. Any air movement, versus absolute temps.
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Old 12-09-2017, 12:29 PM   #65
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Help, we need DRY heat!

Night before last it was 19 degrees in Southern New Mexico, we stayed warm all night with an electric space heater with the furnace kicking on a couple a few times for a short run.

The water in the trailer never froze, but the supply line to the trailer did freeze... had to shower on tank water that morning. Nothing in the windows, and no skirting....

I think the key here was to keep the trailer warm all day before it got really cold.
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:56 PM   #66
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[QUOTE=J. Morgan;2043863

The water in the trailer never froze, but the supply line to the trailer did freeze...
[/QUOTE]

a couple weeks ago when we got hit with temps in the teens several nights in a row, I went to Ace Hardware and bought a 15 ft. heating element. I've heard it referred to as heating tape, but it's not tape. This is a long element that you run alongside a water supply hose. It comes in various lengths. I just chose 15 ft. because I already had a length of the white hose cut to that length that I wasn't using. I also picked up some 1/2" fluffy pink insulation that comes in about a 4" wide strip, and some quality hi-temp duct tape. Put it all together as per instructions and we haven't had any supply line freezing issues after several days of sub freezing weather in a row.
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:33 PM   #67
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Quote:
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a couple weeks ago when we got hit with temps in the teens several nights in a row, I went to Ace Hardware and bought a 15 ft. heating element. I've heard it referred to as heating tape, but it's not tape. This is a long element that you run alongside a water supply hose. It comes in various lengths. I just chose 15 ft. because I already had a length of the white hose cut to that length that I wasn't using. I also picked up some 1/2" fluffy pink insulation that comes in about a 4" wide strip, and some quality hi-temp duct tape. Put it all together as per instructions and we haven't had any supply line freezing issues after several days of sub freezing weather in a row.


That sounds like a great idea that I would try, but unfortunately my supply hose is over 100 feet long....
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:47 AM   #68
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That sounds like a great idea that I would try, but unfortunately my supply hose is over 100 feet long....
Ouch. I thought 25 ft. was too long. But we are usually either in the local KOA or boondocking up on some property near the Wyoming border. I carry water in a 40 gallon bladder in the back of the pickup truck, pump it into a 50 gallon plastic tank, and then pump that into the AS.
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:14 AM   #69
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That sounds like a great idea that I would try, but unfortunately my supply hose is over 100 feet long....
Can you dig a trench and bury it?
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Old 12-11-2017, 09:00 AM   #70
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Can you dig a trench and bury it?


That just isn’t practical in this case. It crosses 20’ of concrete, 40’ of asphalt and 12’ of truck scale...
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