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Old 11-29-2008, 01:27 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by 2dabeach;642903My dealer recomended that I install new adjustable vents (instead of pie plates) in the main vents to allow us to cut down their flow and divert it to the bathroom. It helped a little but [not?
the degree we were hoping.
2da', where do you get adjustable registers? It may not have helped that much in the bathroom because you can only push so much air through that 2" duct—it has about 1/3 the volume of a 4" duct. We usually keep the bathroom door open so the coolness of the air there isn't a problem, but I'd like to cut down the air to the bedroom. I'm guessing at this, but I think it's easier to cut down the amount of air to a specific register than to increase it to another by closing down other registers. Air flows drops off quickly in relation to the distance from the fan and with the flexible, ribbed ducts, even more so. Thus, I expect if you closed every register but the last one in line, you wouldn't see as much increase in air volume as you might think. The best way to balance a system to your taste would be to have ways to direct air from one duct or another at any junctions, but I doubt this system has anything like that. The definitive answer has to come from an HVAC expert or someone with knowledge of fluid and gas dynamics.

Bob, the front beds have a very different layout. There are 4 registers: the first one is under the streetside seat at the dinette, at the rear of the trailer. it is right in front of the furnace and fan. My wife usually sits there, so she's happy as she likes it warmer than I do. The next one is under the wardrobe in the hallway. That's next to the shower and whenever I get out of the shower, it feels frigid, so it seems the airflow to that register is substantially less than the 1st one (it could have something to do with me being wet too). Across from there is the bathroom and the marginally effective register across from the toilet. The problem with this one is that when perched on the toilet with the furnace on, it blows cool air on my feet; I don't like that. The last register is in the bedroom on the streetside a little past the end of the bed. All the registers are a few inches off the floor and the covers can rotate, but not close.

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Old 11-29-2008, 01:36 PM   #44
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What about installing an inline booster fan to draw the warm air along the duct? We do this in the ductwork of old air-cooled volkswagen buses to help draw the warm air of the engine compartment forward.
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Old 11-29-2008, 01:40 PM   #45
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Cameron, that's a good idea except for boondocking when it would draw a lot of power. Opening the door is still easier.

I did the same thing long ago in a Microbus to get some air on the windshield (left foot still froze) and thought I was the only one with that idea.

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Old 11-29-2008, 04:13 PM   #46
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I did the same thing long ago in a Microbus ...and thought I was the only one with that idea.

Gene
No, they even sell kits for it now
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Old 11-30-2008, 12:17 AM   #47
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CrawfordGene.. I picked up the adjustable registers from my Airstream dealer in Waterbury, CT, Valenti's RV Legends. Contact Kevin Smail in parts (203) 754-6135 ksmail@rvlegends.com. They were identified as part number 79-8132 and ran about $7.00 each.
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Old 11-30-2008, 10:31 AM   #48
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I keep a reflective type auto sunshade in the rear window of our rear bedroom 2004 28ft CCD. I found it keeps it much more closer to the temp of the front of the trailer in winter and summer. You lose about 75% of your body heat through your head. Those big windows are inches away from your head. Just some food for thought for others...
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Old 12-15-2008, 05:22 PM   #49
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Kstampa, Do you ever notice much in the way of condensation? I considered doing this in our 27FB (panoramic windows both ends) but was warned about the condensation that would be trapped.
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Old 01-31-2009, 06:18 PM   #50
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I have the trailer now. The furnace is MUCH quieter than the last one. I can hear the woosh of air when its on, but little of the actual blower noise unless you are sitting over it. I am looking at what I can do to quiet it down the rest of the way. I'll likely wrap the furnace in a combination of glass and bubble wrap to muffle the blower sound coming from the unit, and well and sound insulate the inside of the cabinet. I need to do something about insulating the long runs of the above floor venting. The temp drop is pretty large when cold. All that heat is heating the bottom of my cabinets instead of bedroom.
There is purpose in the fact that the ducts are not insulated. That is so that the duct work loses heat in those areas under cabinets to keep the pipes from freezing also this is the way my water tank is indirectly heated. I'm sure you have heard the advice given about when using auxillary heat (ie. ceramic, catalytic, oil filled to conserve propane)to keep cabinet doors open so that heat can get into those areas to protect them from freezing. I have center twin beds with the water pump and water lines located under the road side bed and the heat duct parallels the water lines. I have used Reflectix insulation on all of the outside walls and put a 100W light bulb under there to help.
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Old 01-31-2009, 06:31 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by kstampa View Post
I keep a reflective type auto sunshade in the rear window of our rear bedroom 2004 28ft CCD. I found it keeps it much more closer to the temp of the front of the trailer in winter and summer. You lose about 75% of your body heat through your head. Those big windows are inches away from your head. Just some food for thought for others...
The cold intrusion from my windows is terrible. I measured and cut Reflectix to fit my large front curved window and used Velcro to hold in place. I have one large picture window that I used one of the shrink film storm window kits on. I had 1/8" plexi cut to fit my 2 bedroom windows and use Velcro to hold them in place. I've also lined the outside walls in hidden areas with Reflectix. The Reflectix was a tremendous help in my rear bath when I lined the trunk area which is the back side of my vanity.
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Old 01-31-2009, 06:45 PM   #52
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What about an electric heating pad for the matress?
Backwoods Solar Electric Systems has the best prices I've found for 12V heated mattress covers I've found. Great investment for sleeping warm.
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:36 PM   #53
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We have the dual 12v or elec electrowarmth bedwarmers and I may get the electric version for the house. The quality is very good and you can't feel any bulky elements underneath. You really can only use the 12 volt while you are connected to the truck and driving otherwise you will really run your battery down fast, so mostly I use it on electricity but still nice to have the option.
ElectroWarmth® Bedwarmers - 12 VOLT ELECTROWARMTH® BUNK WARMERS

Our bathroom is cold and the mini vent is barely warmer than cool. A secondary heater is nice, the heat pump really gets the bedroom warmed up nicely and we usually sleep with only the furnace on and set it lower for sleeping. That's when the electric matress pads really come in handy...just a preheat or very low setting is all that is needed and feels therapeutic and you have nice cool breathing temperatures and no risk of tanks freezing.
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