Neil,
We also purchased the Hunter digital thermostat. Ours is not programmable and only connects to two wires, so won't work for some Airstreams. Apparently the Airstreams with just a furnace, for example, are perfect for this.
The one we purchased won't work to replace the thermostats which control roof unit and furnace all in one.
Ours, though, is a wonderful improvement over the cheap Atwood bimetallic. One of the simplest and most effective changes we've wrought on our rolling home.
__________________
Jim N5RTG & Deb KI4OKI
WBCCI #4822 / WBCCI ARC/ RV SVC Network
Escapees full-timing in our CCD 25 blue streak
sometimes seen behind the magnificent 2500HD 8.1L/Allison 6spd 3.73
Next time you bring the Airstream in for service remind me of the heating situation. We can often improve the temperature differential, sometimes there are pinched ducts or ducts with too much hose that reduces the air flow to the bedroom.
It is a pitiful system as I examine it further. It meets standards in homes that were in the 60s. Anyway, it will not quiet it down, but will help on longer runs to transfer more heat to that area. in the end, it leaks throughout the coach so no energy savings to speak of. This industry need some help big time regarding HVAC products.
I have the trailer now. The furnace is MUCH quieter than the last one. I can hear the woosh of air when its on, but little of the actual blower noise unless you are sitting over it. I am looking at what I can do to quiet it down the rest of the way. I'll likely wrap the furnace in a combination of glass and bubble wrap to muffle the blower sound coming from the unit, and well and sound insulate the inside of the cabinet. I need to do something about insulating the long runs of the above floor venting. The temp drop is pretty large when cold. All that heat is heating the bottom of my cabinets instead of bedroom.
__________________ Chris - Boerne, TX / Evergreen, CO
2008 27'FB Int'l Signature CCD - Thank You Airstream of Arkansas! 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 CTD Mega Cab 1977 VW Westfalia Camper, hardtop 'Weekender'::Pictures
"Keeping an open mind is important, but not so open that your brain falls out."
Has anyone thought of building a small solar generator and just hooking it up to a nice portable electric oil heater? I think you can put one together for under 500 dollars and you can use the amps in the summer for a A/C unit as well.
The problem with any portable electric is the high wattage. Strip heat or a large toaster,same design, is very efficient (99%) but needs lots of juice/ possibly sola/wind generator to 4 deep cycle batteries and then to a 3k inverter would give heat for say 4-6 hours and then your out of luck.
I like this idea. An all electric unit. Same 4 deep cycle batteries, same 3-5k inverter and then a very quit built in 3k generator, diesel mounted on the toungue where the propane tanks are. Then a electric tankless water heater, and a package high velocity system similar to a unit made by Espi Tech//Called velocity plus with a hot water coil and strip heat. This could provide all your heating and cooling, would require a frame mounted cond unit/ side discharge that could go where the gas water heater is.. Now the roof is free of the ugly unit on top, quiet very well insulated air delivery system. No propane ever.
If I heat my Tradewind with an oil filled heater, rather than use the furnace, will the heat circulate enough to keep water lines and storage tanks from freezing? I don't really trust the furnace, as it's one of the recall models and I don't know that the fix was done. At this point I can't afford to replace the furnace and will need to look at alternatives.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors
Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Canada
If I heat my Tradewind with an oil filled heater, rather than use the furnace, will the heat circulate enough to keep water lines and storage tanks from freezing? I don't really trust the furnace, as it's one of the recall models and I don't know that the fix was done. At this point I can't afford to replace the furnace and will need to look at alternatives.
I would block off the air ducts to outdoors (cold air leak) with a small piece of sheet aluminum, run the oil filled heater, and run the coach furnace on fan only. It will pull the warmer air in from the living area, and blow it across the holding tanks. An alternative to this is to get a couple lengths of "freeze tape", pull the belly pan down, and lay the freeze tape in a pattern in the slots in the foam insulation under the bottom of the tanks.
My '76 Soveriegn has a duct going under the bed to the rear bath. I'm thinking of putting in a "T" and running a short duct from under the bed into the bedroom. It would be easy to do this and it could be closed to direct the heat to the bathroom when needed there. Anyone done this?
Hi,
I have an 08,27'FB. Its real cold in the bedroom area. We put a electric mattress pad on the bed it really helped out. I just purchased a Pelonis ceramic heater 1500w hoping this will heat up the mid area. Yes the furnace just keeps on running.
Louis
In my 27'FB the duct in toilet room blows rather cool air. Did the pie plate method help to divert warm air to the toilet area also?? I think I will try this it makes good sense. I took out the closet deck to inspect the H2O pump and heat ducting what a mess. I also noticed a big hole cut under the shower area for the water trap. Well this got me busy patching the floor with 3 "styrofoam. What a difference that made in keeping out the cold,now the shower floor is warm.
I have actually looked into making systems that would work in these puppies and have contacts in the industry. The problem is cost. Even high end units like Airstream will not change unless we demand quieter designs. From what iI can see some of the central units by winnebago and in floor heating on diesel rigs is a huge step in the right direction. Sadly, our 60k trailers have the same set up as 10k SOB. i say shame on the mother ship.
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