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Old 08-23-2011, 03:28 PM   #1
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Furnace ducting question?

Hey folks,
How well does the ducting work at keeping tanks from freezing ?
I am wondering if I want to just drain water from lines and flush with rv antifreeze if I am leaving it alone for week or two when I leave it up north?. Then I would just put some antifreeze in grey and black tank and leave fresh water tank empty . Just use city water at campground when I am up there.Provided it is usable in winter. With me it is easy to run antifreeze through pipes I just disconnect pump feed line (which is pex fitting) stick it in five gallon bucket of antifreeze run pump till all faucets are running pink. then reconnect fitting. then dump two gallons down drain and same in toilet.
Would that seem like a cheaper way of doing it instead of keep heat on and refilling 40lbs tanks every @ 10 days. I would still winterize trailer (windows,vents,back access door,Blanket for door so-on). I wonder if that would best fit my situation .
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:38 PM   #2
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I think you'd be better off blowing the lines or adding pink. All you'd need is to be delayed in returning, running out of propane and you'd be screwed. Also, I'd worry about leaving the furnace on while unattended for weeks.

I think you would have to leave the thermostat set at normal living temps if the weather was in the lower 20s for there to be enough hot air to the pipes close to the exterior walls.

Is there electric AC power where you would be leaving the AS?
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:51 PM   #3
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The holding and waste tanks aren't that much or a worry. Just emptying them should do.

Pull the plug on the water heater to drain it. Install a bypass on it so you don't have to anti-freeze it. I use a valve on the plug to make this easier.

Put a directional valve on the input to the water pump to make it easier to switch between the water tank and an antifreeze bucket.

Make sure to remove and bypass any filters or special appliances attached to the plumbing system.

You shouldn't need more than about a gallon of antifreeze to get all the valves filled and the spillage as you look for pink should take care of the traps.

Using air to blow out the lines has a risk of leaving a bit of water in low spots or in some valves (also has a risk of excess pressure if you aren't careful). RV Antifreeze is less risk as it goes where the water does. Do make sure to hit both hot and cold on the mixing valves.

Furnace ducting to the holding tanks might do if you keep the inside at livable temperatures with the furnace and it doesn't get too cold outside. I haven't found it very effective for when I really need it, though, except, perhaps, to reduce condensation.
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:46 PM   #4
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Well I am looking at places that do winter campers and rv's I think that electric would be kinda important to keep battery's full . Also if I need to electric heat tape main water line.
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:53 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Mrcrowley View Post
Well I am looking at places that do winter campers and rv's I think that electric would be kinda important to keep battery's full . Also if I need to electric heat tape main water line.
Well then, skip the propane furnace and get some good electric heaters (oil or resistant), open all the cabinet doors, access panels, etc., get a couple of fans and call it a day. I'd still protect the plumbing while away.
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Old 08-26-2011, 07:50 PM   #6
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I lived 9 months in Utah including mostly winter. I winterized with pink fluid and used the campground facilities. lowest risk and didn't have a bathroom to clean. went through one tank of propane each month with an electric space heater running also.
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:51 PM   #7
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I agree the best option is winterizing the lines.

In the winter, i first blow out the lines from the city water connection (max 60 PSI), open the drain lines, drain and bypass the water tank, then use the pump to distribute the antifreeze. I do drain the water tank, and the holding tanks, and poor some antifreeze in the traps.
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