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Old 08-18-2010, 11:21 PM   #1
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Easiest, most efficient way to skirt the tin can??

After reading many replies on winter living, i have decided to skirt my rig. suggestions, prefab availability, DIY? Thank you
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:33 PM   #2
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easy doesn't equal efficient...

except when it comes to FINDING the threads on this topic...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f462...eam-20597.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f462...ter-38584.html

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-19-2010, 05:14 AM   #3
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If you want insulation for the space underneath, how about bales of straw. Of course that might encourage the mice, but the cold will drive them inside where you can trap them.
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:33 AM   #4
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I used 3/4 inch foam insulation board and duct tape for the one winter I stayed in a fixed location. Looks kind of trashy but it worked. I would also consider hay or straw bales if I were to do it again. No matter what you do be prepared to use a lot of propane
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:55 PM   #5
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There is another possibility for this. After elections we take down the Coreplast signs put up by politicians which are then placed in dumpsters except I bring enough home to mount targets on. It is just like corregated boxes except made from PVC plastic. Usually a target frame is fabricated from 2X2 stock with plywood gusseted corners. Coreplast holds up in direct sunlight in the South for about three years. Most of the signs are 4X8 so at least two eight foot sections could be made up.
I nail my targets with "button caps" used to hold down tarpaper. They are printed usually on one side so you can putting the writing in and leave the white showing.

Or you can buy the Coreplast new for like 8 bucks a sheet. About seven sheets would do and 2X2s are cheap.

When I start to set up rig for winter I will fabricate some and post some pictures. Figure I could use eyebolts on the inside and run nylon line and bungee cords under the rig so the frames could be hooked to pull towards each other and seal up outside.

Water nor snow has any effect on the coreplast, only sunlight deterriorates it after a couple years. If outside is covered with black poly, the life of these really goes up. Or perhaps vinyl coated fabric used to make awnings.

If you had plenty you could place another sheet on inside of frame and have dead air space all around the perimeter area.
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Old 11-15-2010, 09:46 PM   #6
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I just ripped some 4x8 sheets of 2 inch foam and plan to duct tape it together. Have it wedged between the side of the trailer and treated 2x4's every 4 feet. Hoping that will hold up to the KS winter winds, if not I bought wood screws and washers to secure it.
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Old 11-15-2011, 01:31 PM   #7
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I just finished skirting mine for the winter. I used 1" Tough-R insulation board. Has aluminum foil on both sides. easy to work with and looks nice enough. Cost $60 to do a 31' sov. I used foil tape for duct board to attach the Tough-R, to the under side of the bananna wrap.
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:27 PM   #8
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I just used that reflective flexible duct insulation - shiny side out. Duct taped it and then built a snow bank around the perimeter to keep it from blowing around. So far its working well (only have had it installed for 4 days or so). Have a small heater running under there with a thermostat. Got down to below zero the other night, and I tested out a bowl of water as far away from the heater as I could get it - not even a skim of ice after a full night.

Time will tell if it holds up.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:58 PM   #9
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Update: Well I had the 23D in Breckenridge for 2 months with this setup i.e. shiny insulation skirt, held on with duct tape, and a small heater running underneath to keep everything from freezing. Also had a very small heater in the inside blowing air along the galley side of the trailer and under the bed area to keep any pipes from freezing when it got really cold. Quite a few nights below zero - zero problems with freeze ups. March was an unusually warm month so i think that helped.

As many have said, the biggest issue is condensation. When my wife was in the trailer she refused to let me leave a roof vent propped open - she didn't like the drafts. It was toasty warm in the trailer, but she runs extremely cold so I had to close the vents. Mornings we would have ice/frost on all the windows which would then melt and drip. Bought some damp-rid containers, but they didn't seem to help much.

One very important note though - DO NOT use duct tape to hold insulation in place. Just spent a lot of time and effort getting the residue off. Major pain - use gaffers tape for this purpose.

Actually next year I will likely use rigid silver sided insulation. Much cleaner look.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:09 PM   #10
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Thanks for the update, I was curious how it would work for you. Do you have an estimate of how much the electricity cost you?
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:29 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zlee View Post
Thanks for the update, I was curious how it would work for you. Do you have an estimate of how much the electricity cost you?
$95 for the month of February. That included all electrical use of course, not just the space heaters. I don't know how often the space heater under the skirt came on. I will have a more sophisticated setup next year that will allow me to monitor usage.

Also - if you ever need to get tape residue off your airstream use 3M general adhesive remover. That stuff rocks and didn't hurt the finish in any way. Just let it soak in for a while (on one spot left it for 30 minutes, but that is just because I forgot). Then put a little more on a rag, and wipe off the gunk. I tried goo gone first but that stuff is a joke - no chance with duct tape glue.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightwatch
$95 for the month of February. That included all electrical use of course, not just the space heaters. I don't know how often the space heater under the skirt came on. I will have a more sophisticated setup next year that will allow me to monitor usage.
Not too shabby! Very useful to know if I decide to stay in CO next winter, thanks!
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