Only -26˚? I remember back in the good ole days when it was -106˚ when we walked to school.
Actually my record is around -35˚ or -40˚ and it does get a little chilly. Tires freeze and it takes a couple of blocks for the flat spot to loosen up if the car will start. But when it warms up to -20˚, it almost feels downright warm. At -10˚, take the gloves off and open the coat. It really does work that way and you do get used to it. One of my memories is fixing an exhaust system under a jeep at -25˚, something I never want to do again.
I'm impressed your trailer is comfy at -26˚. Did the windows frost? Plenty of houses in Colorado get frozen pipes when the temp goes that low often because of stupid construction, but even those houses should have more insulation that an Airstream.
Gene - That's so weird, but you're right. After -26 the first day everything else has been relatively warm. I had a very small amount of condensation frost on the windows, but not enough to wipe away. Plumbing is almost all inside, so far so good.
It was -42 F here on Lake Vermillion Cook, MN this morning. It has been -35 F or better for 5 days in a row now. The windows frost up as soon as it hits -20 F. Have placed hay bails around the perimeter of the trailer and piled snow up on the hay to seal it off and add a little extra insulation. Also placed a 1000 watt heater underneath just for added security. Also run two 1000 watt ceramic heaters indoors to conserve the propane. Had to utilize a 100# tank to increase the surface area of liquid propane to vaporize in tandem with a 40#. I toggle the regulator switch about every 8 hours to prevent the valve from freezing up. I am thinking of changing regulators to increase the size of the lines from the tanks to 3/8". Anyone done this before and have successful results? I use about 100# every 10 days as it is. When it is warmer, lets say above 15 F, I get about a week out of a 40# tank. This is not the most mobile setup and I had to run a 240 volt cord and split it to two 110 volt lines to support all the electric heaters. I melted one plug end before I added the 240 volt. You could do without the hay bails if you kept a few pieces of 1 1/2" high density foam insulation to cut to size for the perimeter of you AS. It would take about 2 to 2.5 4' X 8' sheets to go around a 31'. This setup provides more leeway for breaking camp. But I am here for an extended stay so the hay bails provide an R-value of 400 as opposed to 20. Oh I also ran an 800 watt heater in the rear bumper for the waste line. I only need this when it is -30 F or worse though. So. Winter camping at its best. Expect quirks to work out. Sometimes on a daily basis. Also with my AS if I leave for more than a day it is a crap shoot because the propane freeze up under a heavy load and the furnace fails to ignite. I have had to repair a burst water line.
__________________ Whoa. Stop yo' train. Let a po' boy ride.
Wisco, you are dedicated. It sounds like you're on a job and I hope you make enough to pay for the propane.
I noticed when in northern Canada and Alaska, they don't use propane for their houses because of the experience you're having. They use fuel oil instead.
It's been about that cold here in Alberta through a good part of December and part of
January though tonight it has warmed up to about -7. The AS, however is full of antifreeze and covered with several inches of snow-no camping for us til about May. Have fun on the slopes. Garth & Joanne Ingham
I admire your sense of adventure in coming up during the winter. Our AS is in storage in Craig. We can hardly wait to get it out this spring. It is a 19' Bambi, so I do not think it is set-up for the cold weather like the larger units.
Today is one of those days you dream about: Colorado blue skies, great snow, and no wind. Perfect.
The last two days it has dipped into the teens here at Colonial Airstream on the Jersey Shore. Currently, we have two different sets of customers staying in their recently purchased 2008 Airstream Classic Limited travel trailers at our facilities. I am glad to report that they are extremely happy with the winter capabilities of their Airstream trailers.
I would highly recommend using a dehumidifier, as Airstream mentions in their owner’s manual. One customer had their trailer at 74 degrees and with three people and a dog inside, it did build up quite a bit if condensation on the panoramic windows. They also went through a whole 40# bottle in about 24 hrs. I believe the entry door being constantly opened and closed was the blame, as they were moving all their belongings from their trade to the new trailer.
I would like to mention, that there are certain models and floor plans that Airstream produces that would be a better choice if winter camping is one of your main needs when making a purchase decision on an Airstream travel trailer. Based on Customer Feedback and some obvious characteristics the best model to choose would be one with the lined/ finished interiors V.S. exposed aluminum interior, the center bath configurations V.S. the rear-corner bath models, remote waste gate black and grey dump valve system V.S. exposed waste gate systems & the island queen beds V.S corner double or Twin beds in the FB or rear.
__________________
Patrick Botticelli
Colonial Airstream
1121 Route 88/ Ocean Ave.
Lakewood, NJ 08701
1-800-265-9019 or 732-367-4499 www.colonialairstream.com
Good insight Patrick. I think Airstream needs to think through the outside showers and place cutoff valves inboard to keep water away from the outside shower for we early & late campers. I've looked at adding those to mine but need to find a plumber under 80# to fit in the wardrobe. It would be easy & relatively cheap to install during manufacture!
I'll leave a roof vent opened slightly and a window unlatched somewhere to give moisture some path out. We have a couple microfiber cloths to wipe windows in the morning.
My experience has been to set the thermostat no higher than 65. Otherwise the furnace is firing nearly constantly. I'll have it closer to 60 when all are tucked in to bed. And keep it down around 45-50 if one must tow with the furnace on in frigid conditions -- wind chill takes away much more heat and the furnace runs a lot more. I once burned almost 30# in a 6 hour drive because the thermostat was up around 65-70. Put a thermometer down near plumbing and check that at refueling or comfort stops.
Towing with LP appliances running deserves a heavy dose or warning and caution. Contrary to some perceptions, OPD devices do not prevent mass exit of tank contents if a line separates in an accident.
You know, our 67 is presumably winterworthy, but I wouldn't trust it that far, not even here in Angel Fire, where it's been somewhat warmer than Steamboat. We're even supposed to have above-freezing temperatures tomorrow!
Lynn
Lynn, Plz don't take this the wrong way but..
You gotta turn the "Furnace" on or, atleast plug in the electric heater~!!
__________________ WBCCI 5292 AIR 807 NEU #64 New England Unit
We keep the temps around 63-65˚ and turn it down to 55-60˚ at night. When humidity starts to build up, we open the Fantastic Fan door and may run the fan a little, or open the shower vent and run that fan. At 74˚, you use much, much more fuel. I don't think opening and closing the door a lot makes a tremendous amount of difference unless you leave the door open for a long time—how many times do you see someone open a door and stand there in the door for a while or not close it for a minute or two while they get something? Same deal with a refrigerator in reverse. It's the objects that hold the heat, not the air.
I suppose if I lived at the beach, I'd love the outside shower. I worry that it doesn't drain properly when I winterize, but haven't traced the water lines to it. I expect some sort of miniature space alien plumber would be needed to put a shut off in those lines. So I rely on hope that Airstream designed that thing properly when I'm traveling and the outside temp is 20˚. We haven't turned on the furnace while driving relying on the motion of the trailer to keep the tanks from freezing, though the water in the shower faucet wouldn't move much. I could put some insulation in there, but with the shower head, there's little room.
I suppose if I lived at the beach, I'd love the outside shower. I worry that it doesn't drain properly when I winterize, but haven't traced the water lines to it. I expect some sort of miniature space alien plumber would be needed to put a shut off in those lines.
My thought exactly!
And you'd need those long fingers. At the back of the wardrobe on my 25' FB there is a horizontal panel held in by screws. I've taken that off and used a mirror and trouble light to visualize -- the PEX piping for the outside shower goes out of sight behind the inside shower enclosure. Down low behind the pump there's not much space to get to things. So far I've concluded that I'd blow out the lines and just use it as an aluminum tent. I'm not a snowbird, so haven't had any reason to be traveling in full winter. Still would be an easy factory fix... One warranty repair would cover the cost of putting shutoffs in 50 units.
We've used the outside shower when the dogs have gotten into poison ivy. It's also neater washing hair out there.
Wisco, you are dedicated. It sounds like you're on a job and I hope you make enough to pay for the propane.
I noticed when in northern Canada and Alaska, they don't use propane for their houses because of the experience you're having. They use fuel oil instead.
Gene
Have any experience with the wood burning marine stoves?
__________________ Whoa. Stop yo' train. Let a po' boy ride.
Wisco, no. I do burn a lot of wood at home and it's messy, ash disposal can be a pain and the air is a lot less clean. Wood means a lot of little pieces and ash inside a small space. I've got lots of trees, so wood is "free" minus chains for the saw, fuel, many hours of work, and the aches and pains of cutting wood (plenty of ibuprofen). CLeaning the saw is a constant job and would also mess up the trailer.
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