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Old 05-07-2013, 09:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony S View Post
In addition to the remanent I bought for the trailer, I ended up buying a small remanent for out home bath along with the original remanent that I wanted that was just a little short for the trailer but I like the color so much I got it for another bathroom in my house. I kind of got marmoleumitis.

*Top once again I am following your lead and ordered some penetrating epoxy and will use your method. Nothing succeeds like success.

For what it is worth I wanted to go with AeroMarine products which are very highly spoken of with the boat building folks. (I have a Tolman Skiff in my future, after the AS.) I am familiar with Mas and System Three which are name brands and many have found they like Aeromarine better. Just some info, I suspect all the name brands are good. Aeromarine is nicely priced for epoxy.

AeroMarine Products - Dry Rot Repair Epoxy

Tony
Where did you find all those remnants? I will be interested in hearing how installation goes.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:01 AM   #16
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I got the remnants at our local Color Tile. Way back all CT carried the same products, based on store size. Now a days they are independently owned. This one caters to commercial users.

I will post pics of the install. I currently have it epoxied and am fairing the joints and further preping the floor since the word is the Marmoleum telegraphs even more than sheet vinyl.

Tony
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Old 07-07-2013, 12:05 AM   #17
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I thought I would up date this thread and tell you how the installation went.

The installation went well. I epoxied the floor with a penetrating epoxy following the success and excellent results "Top" had.

I used a different brand epoxy. I use Aeromarine and liked it very much. I also built a custom shower pan with it by the stitch and glue method used in some boat building.

Anyway, I faired the joints with cabosil thicked epoxy and sanded it and sanded it some more. I am telling you it is a lot of work. I blended in some old solid plywood floor with the new marine plywood I installed. I epoxied the underside perimeter as well before installing. By the way I didn't bend the elevator bolts. I slapped epoxy on them and ,in some cases, also double nutted them.

I did a lot of sanding knowing how the marmoleum telegraphs every imperfection. The old floor between the wheel wells was solid but not flat I made it much better but short of perfect. I am all about craftsmanship but part of craftsmanship is to know when a trailer floor is not a piano. This is not an excuse it came out well.

I dry laid the M in after a couple of vacuuming and a hand wipe down with blue shop towels. It was 100 degrees in the trailer but the M was supple and just laid down like it was glued down. This showed me something I didnt like I work that joint a little more and the results weren't bad.

I installed the M in the morning when the temp was about 75. I sweated through my shirt as I worked fast not wanting the mastic to skim over and not knowing how long I had before that happen. I used a 1/16" x 1/16" square notched trowel. It went well and when done immediately rolled it with 100lbs roller. I rolled it first across, then the length and on the diagonal and then the length again a time or two

By the way, you will notice I did not go under all the cabinets with the M. I am watching the weight of my changes and new installs. My M weights 9 oz per 12 x 12 and as we all know oz makes lbs.

Also I love the stuff. I love the smell of it. It smells much like the flax seed oil I use on my cutting boards I sell at shows.

Anyway a special thanks to Lance M. for his example on Abby.

Tony S
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:16 AM   #18
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one other thing, when I was applying the mastic. I first "key" it into the substrate. That is I used the flat side of the trowel before turning it over to the business side of the trowel, 1/16" x 1/16" square notch.

Now I wait and see that everything took and then preforms as expected.

Tony
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:33 AM   #19
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Looks great! Nice work.
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Old 07-07-2013, 12:10 PM   #20
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Thanks Lance. If it is good it is cause of your example If it isn't it is my fault.

Tony
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Old 04-09-2017, 01:09 PM   #21
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1) I like the look of it - more natural, warmer colors.
2) It's more "period correct" for our 1956 trailer. Synthetic vinyl flooring didn't exist back then.
3) I hate the smell of off-gasing vinyl. Trailer is sealed up + temperature rises = the vinyl stinks.
4) More stable. Not going to stretch with the higher temps the trailer is subjected to.
5) Solid color for whole thickness - not layers of paper-like materials with a plastic coating like most inexpensive sheet vinyls.
6) More durable than most sheet vinyl. Layers don't separate & harder to gouge.
7) Nice underfoot - feels much better barefoot than the plasticky feel of vinyl.

I'm sure I can come up with more reasons...but these are the first reasons that came to my mind...we've had it in two Airstreams and are preparing to put it in our 1947 Curtis Wright Model 2 when we get around to restoring it.

Shari

P.S. We didn't add "a 1/4" of underlayment". It's not necessary if the floor is solid.
Shari
what did you use to fill elevator bolt heads & seams of subfloor? I don't want to use Luan either.
Mine is a brand new subfloor coated with penetrating epoxy.
I'm not installing the sheet floor covering. But would not be opposed to doing the prep work.
The flooring company wants to put Luan down.
It makes no sense to me to put a layer of rot susceptible Luan down on top of my new epoxy treated subfloor.
Any help is appreciated. Also how has yours held up?
Sherri
Quote:
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Shari

Good summary. I feel the same way about off gassing.

If I too can avoid the added weight of the ply underlayment I would be happy.

I have laid many vinyl floors over the years and prepared others for others so I can prep it to professional standards if that is all it takes.

I am about to install new floors in half the trailer ( A/B marine fir plywood) the rest is in very good shape.

Have others installed Marmoleum without underlayment?

Many thanks

Tony
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Old 04-09-2017, 02:28 PM   #22
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Its real linoleum.
Which is made from linseed oil
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:36 AM   #23
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Luan? Yes or no? I'm very close to having my floor covering installed.
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Old 05-01-2017, 07:48 AM   #24
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Dingo Girl, Luan no. Too many voids. We used 1/4" birch and installed our M over a year ago. We read the the literature on installing M and it has held up well. We used 3/4" narrow gauge staples placed closely along the edges and a little farther apart in the field per the installation guide. Stagger the 1/4" joints with the subfloor joints. Make sure and set any staples that didn't recess in the 1/4" material. Good luck
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Old 05-01-2017, 11:27 AM   #25
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Originally my 67 had linoleum tiles glued to subfloor.
No Luan no Birch.
Why do I have to put anything over my epoxyed subfloor before the Marmoleum?
I know elevator bolt recesses will have to be filled and smoothed. Seams too.
What to use for filler??
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:40 PM   #26
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Dingo,

I would suggest that you check the specs on the adhesive you intend to use, however, I would strongly suspect that you'd be fine installing it directly on your epoxied floor.

I put an underlayment (1/4" plywood) on top of my subfloor because I didn't need to replace the subfloor. The old floor was glued down with some sort of asphalt based adhesive. Residue from that adhesive was left on the subfloor surface when I removed the old tile. The Marmoleum adhesive said that it was incompatible with that old adhesive. In hindsight, I wish I had just gone over the old floor because the extra 1/4" lift on the floor threw all the old stuff off. Everything that attached to the wall, like the cabinets and furnace vents were off by 1/4 inch and needed to be reworked.
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Old 05-01-2017, 01:44 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingo Girl View Post
Originally my 67 had linoleum tiles glued to subfloor.
No Luan no Birch.
Why do I have to put anything over my epoxyed subfloor before the Marmoleum?
I know elevator bolt recesses will have to be filled and smoothed. Seams too.
What to use for filler??
For Marmoleum the floor has to be absolutely flat or cracks, screws, etc will show through. Also Marmoleum calls for only using their adhesive.
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Old 05-03-2017, 11:42 AM   #28
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forbo click-lock

I've been looking at floating floors, which would alleviate the need for such perfection in the plywood subfloor. (I'm not replacing the entire subfloor -only patching by the entrance.) What do you all think about these type of floors? You can get them in marmoleum (forbo).
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