Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-28-2011, 07:30 AM   #15
Rivet Master
 
casa3805's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Corpus Christi , Texas
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 869
Images: 41
I know this is an old thread but a silly question please. We have prepped our floor, painted with Kilz, have an underlayment down, and are ready to install laminate flooring around existing cabinets. Once I cut and install the floor, living the required 1/4 inch gap, what keeps the flooring from shifting side to side? Or is it unnoticeable?
__________________

__________________
Chuck & Skye
Rock and Roll Will Never Die!

WBCCI 3805
AIR 54011 Since July 2011
casa3805 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 06:09 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
Bowmans's Avatar
 
1979 31' Sovereign
1950 22' Liner
Powhatan , Virginia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 520
Blog Entries: 45
The weight of the floor itself should keep it from sliding. We also put a 1/8" foam/plastic sheeting (moisture and sound barrier) underneath the flooring (thinner than you would use in a house). This should help as well.
__________________

__________________
Tadd, Beth, Grundgetta and Weeble
Our blog
Proud to be Air #37137
Bowmans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 06:30 PM   #17
Rivet Master
 
casa3805's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Corpus Christi , Texas
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 869
Images: 41
Kind of had a feeling it was a silly question. Thanks, we have the underlayment down and will be doing the floors over the holiday weekend. Just had that momentary mental drift... Having fun. Went to the Glen Rose Rally in TX and holy cow, we have been busy ever since. New stereo, new speakers, Skye made new covers for the speakers, new screens going in, ripped out the carpet, installing flooring (and the many steps in between), replaced the Univolt with an Intelipower 9260. Ordered new reclining chairs... And we thought we really loved it "before" we went! Silly Rallies, Darn you Highland Lakes Unit!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	271628_2134558762124_1190715253_32481862_7546080_o.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	172.6 KB
ID:	133523   Click image for larger version

Name:	272313_2139200598167_1190715253_32487585_5393930_o.jpg
Views:	165
Size:	139.0 KB
ID:	133524  

__________________
Chuck & Skye
Rock and Roll Will Never Die!

WBCCI 3805
AIR 54011 Since July 2011
casa3805 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 06:42 PM   #18
Site Team
 
reinergirl's Avatar

 
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis , New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,639
Images: 15
I'm a long way from doing the floor in my trailer but I've thought about it a lot. IMHO it's easier to make changes later if you put in the cabinets and walls first.

You may not think you would ever want to change the floor again but what if water gets in between the finished floor and the subfloor? What if the material is defective and it curls, marks, shrinks, fades from the sun..... It's a straight forward switch-out if its not under the cabinets. Plus you have the added benefit of being able to see any water damage. My dad was am accomplished woodworker and I remember him saying that wood getting wet was not a problem. Wood getting wet and not being able to dry out WAS a problem. I think epoxying the subfloor before laying anything is an excellent idea.

I HATE the look of shoe molding too, but I think its the lessor of two evils here. I'm hoping to find some sort of cool aluminum trim instead!
__________________
Shelly : TAC NH-6 | AIR 41359
Visit my blog!
Parts needed : Braund Antenna front tube fold down model!
reinergirl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 08:20 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
casa3805's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Corpus Christi , Texas
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 869
Images: 41
so just for grins...How "DOES" everyone that has to use molding attach it. I know I can pop nails into the wood under the beds and in the bath, but I am not going to be driving nails into the aluminum. So, do you glue it to the wall?
__________________
Chuck & Skye
Rock and Roll Will Never Die!

WBCCI 3805
AIR 54011 Since July 2011
casa3805 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 09:52 PM   #20
Rivet Master
 
Bowmans's Avatar
 
1979 31' Sovereign
1950 22' Liner
Powhatan , Virginia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 520
Blog Entries: 45
I have seen some posts where people have used trim and the ones I have seen use a glue of some sort and attach it to the walls (not the flooring). Some used quarter round, others have used the rubber trim like office buildings have which is more flexible for the curves. We didn't leave a gap at all on ours because I didn't want to have to trim it out (I know we probably should have). I figure it it starts to buckle, I could trim later. No buckling or gaps yet in over a year. The only issue we have is we do get some squeaks walking close to cabinets where it rubs slightly but I can live with that.

@reinergirl - I agree as well on flooring after cabinets. We used a floating floor and I want to be able to replace it easily if needed and also pull it up if we find leaks. We also coated the under floor on top with epoxy to seal it off.

Here is a shot after epoxy:


Here is one with the flooring down:
__________________
Tadd, Beth, Grundgetta and Weeble
Our blog
Proud to be Air #37137
Bowmans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 10:10 PM   #21
4 Rivet Member
 
1985 31' Excella
Fresno , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 307
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowmans View Post
I have seen some posts where people have used trim and the ones I have seen use a glue of some sort and attach it to the walls (not the flooring). Some used quarter round, others have used the rubber trim like office buildings have which is more flexible for the curves. We didn't leave a gap at all on ours because I didn't want to have to trim it out (I know we probably should have). I figure it it starts to buckle, I could trim later. No buckling or gaps yet in over a year. The only issue we have is we do get some squeaks walking close to cabinets where it rubs slightly but I can live with that.

@reinergirl - I agree as well on flooring after cabinets. We used a floating floor and I want to be able to replace it easily if needed and also pull it up if we find leaks. We also coated the under floor on top with epoxy to seal it off.

Here is a shot after epoxy:


Here is one with the flooring down:
I doubt if you will ever have a buckle especially from side to side. You are only dealing with 88" at the most. I imaging the 1/4" suggested edge gap is taking into consideration floor runs of 50-60'

Your floor looks great.
__________________
Wsmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2011, 10:53 PM   #22
Rivet Master
 
Bowmans's Avatar
 
1979 31' Sovereign
1950 22' Liner
Powhatan , Virginia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 520
Blog Entries: 45
Thanks! That was my thinking as well. We ran the panels (3 tiles across made a panel) width-wise. At the widest spot, there are only 1 and 2/3 panel across.
__________________
Tadd, Beth, Grundgetta and Weeble
Our blog
Proud to be Air #37137
Bowmans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2011, 12:12 AM   #23
Silver Spud
 
shadrick5's Avatar
 
1975 31' Sovereign
Twin Falls , Idaho
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by reinergirl View Post
I'm a long way from doing the floor in my trailer but I've thought about it a lot. IMHO it's easier to make changes later if you put in the cabinets and walls first.

You may not think you would ever want to change the floor again but what if water gets in between the finished floor and the subfloor? What if the material is defective and it curls, marks, shrinks, fades from the sun..... It's a straight forward switch-out if its not under the cabinets. Plus you have the added benefit of being able to see any water damage. My dad was am accomplished woodworker and I remember him saying that wood getting wet was not a problem. Wood getting wet and not being able to dry out WAS a problem. I think epoxying the subfloor before laying anything is an excellent idea.

I HATE the look of shoe molding too, but I think its the lessor of two evils here. I'm hoping to find some sort of cool aluminum trim instead!
I was thinking rope lighting in either LED or standard might be an option for the expansion gap.....
__________________
shadrick5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2011, 04:48 AM   #24
4 Rivet Member
 
2vets's Avatar
 
1960 24' Tradewind
St. Albans , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowmans View Post
I have seen some posts where people have used trim and the ones I have seen use a glue of some sort and attach it to the walls (not the flooring). Some used quarter round, others have used the rubber trim like office buildings have which is more flexible for the curves. We didn't leave a gap at all on ours because I didn't want to have to trim it out (I know we probably should have). I figure it it starts to buckle, I could trim later. No buckling or gaps yet in over a year. The only issue we have is we do get some squeaks walking close to cabinets where it rubs slightly but I can live with that.

@reinergirl - I agree as well on flooring after cabinets. We used a floating floor and I want to be able to replace it easily if needed and also pull it up if we find leaks. We also coated the under floor on top with epoxy to seal it off.

Here is a shot after epoxy:


Here is one with the flooring down:
What kind of epoxy did you use? That looks great!
__________________
http://1960airstreamtradewind.blogspot.com
Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse... but you take a boat in the air that you don't love... she'll shake you off just as sure as the turn of the worlds.
2vets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2011, 08:31 PM   #25
Rivet Master
 
Bowmans's Avatar
 
1979 31' Sovereign
1950 22' Liner
Powhatan , Virginia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 520
Blog Entries: 45
We used an epoxy called Tile Clad (1 gallon part A and 1 set gallon B which did 2 coats) from Sherman Williams. They can color it as well so we went with a tan color. I only shows under the bed storage and base of cabinets. It covers really well and dries creating a hard shell which will not let water penetrate.
__________________
Tadd, Beth, Grundgetta and Weeble
Our blog
Proud to be Air #37137
Bowmans is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2011, 04:04 PM   #26
Rivet Master
 
casa3805's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Corpus Christi , Texas
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 869
Images: 41
And...we begin. For a while I thought we were going to have about 50% wasted boards, but we started getting better...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	installing floor, aft.jpg
Views:	169
Size:	169.5 KB
ID:	133706  
__________________
Chuck & Skye
Rock and Roll Will Never Die!

WBCCI 3805
AIR 54011 Since July 2011
casa3805 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 06:43 PM   #27
Rivet Master
 
casa3805's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Corpus Christi , Texas
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 869
Images: 41
Floor is down, except for the bath. Still need to install trim and mount the converter. New chairs replace the old sofa. Cork contact paper on the front lower wall. Now...how to secure the Chairs?? One thing at a time I guess. It is all fun...
Note the Highland Lakes Unit Directory on the little table. Our Unit. I feel like calling them all one by one and telling them "This is not as easy as you said it would be!" Kidding. It looks so much better without the old carpet and many of the members encouraged us to take the plunge. So glad we did.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	floor and chairs.jpg
Views:	188
Size:	147.1 KB
ID:	133950  
__________________
Chuck & Skye
Rock and Roll Will Never Die!

WBCCI 3805
AIR 54011 Since July 2011
casa3805 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2011, 09:36 PM   #28
Rivet Master
 
Bowmans's Avatar
 
1979 31' Sovereign
1950 22' Liner
Powhatan , Virginia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 520
Blog Entries: 45
That turned out great!
__________________

__________________
Tadd, Beth, Grundgetta and Weeble
Our blog
Proud to be Air #37137
Bowmans is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
just finished floating floor feilingerm Floor Finishes 5 09-15-2008 08:25 PM
Glued Down Laminate vs. Floating TheHicks Floor Finishes 15 09-01-2008 10:31 PM
screwing through floating laminate DasAir Floor Finishes 6 04-07-2008 08:02 PM
Floating Floor/Laminate Question soldiermedic Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 44 11-05-2006 06:58 PM
Cork Floating Floor ClassicRides Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 21 12-01-2005 09:12 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.