Types of Flooring

[bvcg1]

Originally Posted by Belegedhel

Recommended brands (of LVT), places to purchase?

There are many brands out there. The brand I chose is Centiva, because it has one of the hardest and thickest wear layers. https://tandus-centiva.com/product-solutions/lvt

You can not go wrong with purchasing an LVT by Armstrong, Mannington, or Tarkett either. Just make sure you get a minimum wear layer thickness of 20 mil. Do not let someone sell you a 10 or 12 mil wear layer, claiming that it is sufficient for residential use. The biggest enemy of any floor is the silicates/ sand/ dirt that you bring in on your feet. They will grind into a floor (whether it is carpet, laminate, cork, or LVT) and dull the finish and create scratches. Since these toys of ours are facilitating our love for the Great Outdoors, this will always be an issue. That's why I recommend a commercial grade.

You can purchase most brands at your local carpet/ flooring store, especially the Armstrong brand. I would recommend going to the website and narrowing your selection within the commercial products (the Armstrong website, for instance, asks if you want to look at residential or commercial products). Then go to the store and tell them which style/ model you want. Otherwise they will steer you towards the products they are accustomed to selling. The Centiva brand that I am using is typically only accessible to commercial flooring contractors, which makes it more difficult. If you find something within their offering, inbox me and I will help you get it.

[bvcg1]

Apparently my reply to Belegedhel did not post, so here goes:

There are many brands out there. The brand I chose is Centiva, because it has one of the hardest and thickest wear layers. https://tandus-centiva.com/product-solutions/lvt

You can not go wrong with purchasing an LVT by Armstrong, Mannington, or Tarkett either. Just make sure you get a minimum wear layer thickness of 20 mil. Do not let someone sell you a 10 or 12 mil wear layer, claiming that it is sufficient for residential use. The biggest enemy of any floor is the silicates/ sand/ dirt that you bring in on your feet. They will grind into a floor (whether it is carpet, laminate, cork, or LVT) and dull the finish and create scratches. Since these toys of ours are facilitating our love for the Great Outdoors, this will always be an issue. That's why I recommend a commercial grade.

You can purchase most brands at your local carpet/ flooring store, especially the Armstrong brand. I would recommend going to the website and narrowing your selection within the commercial products (the Armstrong website, for instance, asks if you want to look at residential or commercial products). Then go to the store and tell them which style/ model you want. Otherwise they will steer you towards the products they are accustomed to selling. The Centiva brand that I am using is typically only accessible to commercial flooring contractors, which makes it more difficult. If you find something within their offering, inbox me and I will help you get it.

[nrgtrakr]

I thought so (install), thanks!

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by bvcg1

It is installed using adhesive that is spread on the floor with a notched trowel. Do not buy the 'peal and stick' variety, as the adhesive that is applied to it is weak and most likely will not tolerate the temperature/ humidity extremes of the trailer during seasonal storage. Each manufacturer will have their own adhesive required for their product. Most adhesive recommendations require that the adhesive be spread and it cures for several minutes until it reaches a certain flash point, usually when you can touch the adhesive and it not transfer to your finger. You can see the adhesive in the foreground of this picture of my installation.

What would you recommend for a floating floor that has a tile/stone look? I do not want a glue down.

[bucketlisttx]

What's your opinion on brushing on a waterproofing membrane on the subfloor prior to laying down your new flooring

[rodsterinfl]

What's your opinion on brushing on a waterproofing membrane on the subfloor prior to laying down your new flooring

good question.

Also, how do you peeps redoing flooring deal with the walls and cabinets? Lay around them or what?

[driftwood1]

Also, can you glue it down over existing vinyl sheet?

[bvcg1]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

What would you recommend for a floating floor that has a tile/stone look? I do not want a glue down.

I personally do not know of a glueless stone/ tile look. I am in the commercial flooring business, where glueless is not so much a viable option. Here is a link to a supplier of mine that handles some laminate flooring('laminate' flooring is glueless): bpiteam

If you want a commercial grade flooring, do a search for 'laminate' within the following manufacturers: Armstrong, Mannington, Tarkett, Amtico, Formica, American Biltrite, Pergo. Just go to the 'commercial product lines on their websites.

[bvcg1]

Originally Posted by rodsterinfl

good question.

Also, how do you peeps redoing flooring deal with the walls and cabinets? Lay around them or what?

I don't see the point in brushing on a waterproof membrane from inside. Why?... to protect the subfloor from the outside elements? Any moisture barrier applied from inside will not protect the underside that is exposed. If waterproofing is not needed/ required in above-grade residential and commercial construction with wood substrates, then why would it be needed in an Airstream? The aluminum underbelly is enough to protect the substrate from splash-up when traveling in wet conditions. It would be pointless in my humble opinion.

Yes, you would have to cut the material around walls and other penetrations. Be sure to leave the required gap that the installation instructions say to leave for each specific material. Laminates (glueless floors) especially need room to expand and contract (usually 1/4 inch). Shoe-mold or quarter-round molding is then nailed to the wall/ cabinet to cover the gap.

[bvcg1]

Please see my reply to rodsterinfl.
I got out of order and answered his before I got to yours.

[bvcg1]

Originally Posted by driftwood1

Also, can you glue it down over existing vinyl sheet?

That would depend on the condition of the existing sheet vinyl.
If it is heavily embossed or pealing and torn in places, then you would have to do a 'skim-coat' over it with a lightweight cementitious compound such as Ardex Featherfinish ARDEX Americas | ARDEX FEATHER FINISH®

The skim-coating with a flat trowel will fill any voids/ embossment/ irregularities and leave you with a flat surface to adhere the new flooring to. The material is a bit tricky to work with, so I would go to YouTube and search for videos on how to mix and apply. When I did my floor I covered the rough 3/4 inch subfloor with a 1/4 inch luan to give me the best possible substrate. I still had to use the Ardex at all luan joints ,and to fill in the indentions left by the fasteners (pneumatic brad/ staple gun).
You will have to apply it in 2 or 3 layers to get the smoothest possible finish. The first coat will be a little rough, so you scrape it with the DRY trowel to knock of the edges left during the first application...kind of like scraping a window to clean glass. Then you apply a lighter coat (or two) of the Featherfinish to fill voids left after the previous application.

[KJRitchie]

Originally Posted by bvcg1

I have been in the commercial flooring business for almost 30 years. The trend now is LVT...Luxury Vinyl Tile. It is approximately 1/8 inch thick and very durable if you buy commercial grade. It comes in wood plank, stone, concrete, etc looks. It really keeps the weight down and is relatively easy to install. Here is a picture of a simulated exotic wood floor I put in my 71 Safari restoration.

Does LVT expand and contract over time when the AS is in storage and its 0 degrees F in the winter and 100 degrees F in the summer? That is what is causing my OEM vinyl to buckle in a few places.

I would have to remove all the old vinyl from around the cabinets then lay down a new floor. The old vinyl would stay under the cabinets and furniture.

Kelvin

[switz]

We replaced the loosening factory linoleum with Marmoleum in the 2014 Classic. The material is about a ⅛" thick with the color and pattern all the way through so a scratch or ding does not show. It is biologically friendly in that none could even eat the stuff with no side effects.

http://www.forbo.com/flooring/en-gl/...m/bl3o9c#anker

The 2015 23D came with dents and after 2,000 miles the dinette leg had worn through the really thin and extremely cheap factory linoleum. Since all the dinette related cabinetry is out along with the bed frame because of extensive modifications, we are installing the Marmoleum but in a different color.

We install a brass wear plate under the dinette table leg after installing the new flooring.

[bvcg1]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

Does LVT expand and contract over time when the AS is in storage and its 0 degrees F in the winter and 100 degrees F in the summer? That is what is causing my OEM vinyl to buckle in a few places.

I would have to remove all the old vinyl from around the cabinets then lay down a new floor. The old vinyl would stay under the cabinets and furniture.

Kelvin

VERY GOOD QUESTION! Yes, any vinyl product will expand and contract due to temperature extremes. I'll bet you a million bucks that your failure was due to the adhesive used to apply your OEM vinyl. That's why it is very important to use the manufacturer's recommended adhesive. It stays tacky longer. Inadequate adhesives will crystallize after some time and release from the back of the vinyl. A premium adhesive will stay in its pliable state for years, so when the vinyl is expanding and contracting it is moving with it because it stays 'rubbery'. When inadequate adhesives crystallize they will release the vinyl when it moves.