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Old 05-05-2003, 01:01 AM   #29
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Cutting the tiles down to 9"x9" sounds pretty labor intensive to me Charles!

The only reason the originals were 9"x9" is that it was the standard size of the industry for vinyl asbetsos tiles. When the new asbestos-free tiles came out in the early 70's, the size was changed to 12"x12" so as to easily distinguish which is which.

Also, unless you have specialized cutting tools, the cut down seams may not line up as well as the factory seams and you may have gaps.

Shari
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Old 05-05-2003, 02:20 AM   #30
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Seams in vinyl sheeting? WHY?

Installing one piece vinyl flooring is not recommended. In time, cracks will appear at every seam in the floor, which is every 4 feet.
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I was in a 22' International CCD at the dealer today. Solid, one piece vinyl floor. Looks like Airstream changed their mind about having to use tile. Maybe the OSB flooring used in the new Internationals is more dimensionally stable.


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These may be pretty 'old' posts, but I'm running 2 businesses and trying to get "Bear" finished, ---not to even touch on my personal/family life, and I'm really overwhelmed...& I really don't get that first comment above. I happen to agree with the author of those 2 posts above in this post.
How wide is the widest Airstream?
Doesn't one-piece vinyl flooring comes in 6 to 8 foot widths.?
(I may be off b/c it's been a long time since I built my house.)
When I put solid sheeting in "Bear"'s galley, I think it was 6 feet wide, because I wanted to put the square (design) in a "harlequin" direction, but I'd have had to have bought 3 times as much to do it; what I ended up doing ---beside running the "checkered" squares as 'squares' ...not harlequin, was purchase enough (by the foot) to run it WITHOUT a seam the length of the galley.
So, what I don't get is if the underlayment sub-flooring has a seam every 4 feet, why would a solid sheet of vinyl become problematic if the subfloor should separate a little?

As I said in an earlier post in this thread, the solid vinyl sheeting would "float" on the underlayment, which has been installed on refinished bare sub-floors (factory installed)... I would think the separating, if any, would cause the vinyl to 'pull' away at the outer edges if anything. Wouldn't it?
..........cat
ok...come on...tell me I'm dense...my shoulders are broad...I can take the heat...no biggee.
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Old 05-05-2003, 09:08 AM   #31
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The CCD and AS models don't have a belly pan, maybe that is why they chose to use OSB. Hard to believe it is one piece, do they actually make it on-site? It will be interesting to see how well the OSB holds up to the test of time.

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Old 05-05-2003, 11:46 AM   #32
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OSB

I had OSB in my old Scamp. They sprayed the bottom surface with resin. The stuff tends to be heavy, but, IMHO, will outlast plywood by quite a bit.

I have seen marine grade plywood scraps delaminate after a while outdoors, OTOH, I have a piece of OSB leaning against the badk of my workshop for over 5 years now and it is weathered, but still in very good shape. I use it for a walking board on a horizontal folding ladder.
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Old 05-05-2003, 04:02 PM   #33
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OSB - then Vinyl ?

I am in the process of complete remodel of our 1967 Overlander. See pics... Since the rear had to be patched over the tank, I am considering an additional sheet of 1/4 OSB over the 5/8" plywood wall to wall in the bathroom before I re-plumb and install cabinets, tub etc.

My reasoning is that vinyl is only 1/8" and the laminated wood flooring we are using from bath door forward is 3/8" plus pad. So... the 1/4" OSB + 1/8" vinyl = laminated wood flooring, thus a more smooth seam between the two flooring types.

Also glueing the 1/8" OSB to the 5/8" plywood will help create a stronger floor where I patched in a section.

Are there any flaws in this logic?

-Robert
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:42 PM   #34
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Quote:
I am considering an additional sheet of 1/4 OSB over the 5/8" plywood wall to wall in the bathroom before I re-plumb and install cabinets, tub etc.
The only issue I see is that by adding another 1/4" layer over the existing plywood flooring, your cabinets, tub, et al will not be able to be reinstalled using the same connection points as before. That is of course, assuming you are re-installing the same cabinets. If you are building new it wouldn't make a difference.

Shari
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Old 05-05-2003, 05:53 PM   #35
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I have a question....

Has anyone (other than InlandRV) had "first hand" experience with the solid vinyl or linoleum floors and the cracking everybody is concerned about? I've never heard anybody say "yeah, mine did!" not that I want to be the first...

Just curious...

Shari
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Old 05-10-2003, 06:04 PM   #36
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Additional weight???

The carpeting in our "new" used 1992 29ft A/S is a total disaster! My first decision for replacement was a good quality 12" self adhesive tile at HD; then I found some nice sheet Congoleum that I thought would work nicely; thinking about any subfloor work made me consider Berber carpet. Even tho I don't like carpeting, it should look good for 4-5 years then just replace it. (We have no children at home, or travelling pets, so it won't be abused.) The salesman at HD mentioned positive points for each type. When I came to the forum to pose the question of sheet vinyl vs tile, I found that someone had already posted that exact question. From that, I was able to read numerous informative answers, all of which made perfectly good sense. Depending on which response I was reading at the time, I'd think, THAT'S the answer, that's what I should do. lol (I did talk with a flooring contractor regarding the problem of cracking of sheet vinyl due to the shifting floors of the A/S. He suggested letting the vinyl float and just glueing it around the edges.) Today I've decided to seriously consider Pergo-type flooring. I brought home several planks and laid them diagonally in the A/S. It looked spectacular. My only concern now is: HOW MUCH WEIGHT IS THIS PERGO GOING TO ADD to the unit? I have no idea how to go about making an informed decision. Would anyone care to help me with a guesstimate? Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old 05-10-2003, 07:56 PM   #37
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"My only concern now is: HOW MUCH WEIGHT IS THIS PERGO GOING TO ADD to the unit? I have no idea how to go about making an informed decision. Would anyone care to help me with a guesstimate? Any ideas would be appreciated."

This is not a guestimate: Laminate flooring (Pergo, et al) weighs about two pounds per square foot. Measure the desired square footage, multiply by two, and the subtract the weight of whatever you remove.

Mark
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