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Old 06-27-2013, 08:35 PM   #15
The Bed Zeppelin
 
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1975 31' Sovereign
Port Aransas , Texas
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I'd say go for it. By bonding a thin layer to the plywood, you are basically creating a 1" think ply with the upper surface being the money.

I glued in a floor in a class A rv and had no problems over 20,000 miles.

My gut says dry the planks very well so they don't move /shrink after the fact
My thoughts as well.
My trailer, and shop, are only a few miles from the Gulf of Mexico so the wood and subfloor are settled at a relatively high humidity. I am hoping than the only movement will be to shrink and not expand after instal.
As Moderator, do you have any suggestions on what I should do with my old unneeded cabinets? I hate to let them go to waste if someone needs them.
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:54 PM   #16
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1991 34' Excella
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Originally Posted by HerbL View Post

My thoughts as well.
My trailer, and shop, are only a few miles from the Gulf of Mexico so the wood and subfloor are settled at a relatively high humidity. I am hoping than the only movement will be to shrink and not expand after instal.
As Moderator, do you have any suggestions on what I should do with my old unneeded cabinets? I hate to let them go to waste if someone needs them.
Humidity stalks us both...I've poly bagged some wood along with a room dehumidifier and after several days it was dry. All of the wood stock in my '63 is cherry that came from the tree, to the camper via my dads sawmill. Ain't it fun?

Old cabinets? Several folks have placed 'come and get it' ad's in the classifieds. If you do so, keep in mind that the classifieds require a second log in.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:07 PM   #17
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Wow...I called my Airstream a trailer....Its So much more!
it's name is the "Texas Clipper" AKA Bed Zepplin. The name Texas Clipper came from a WWII liberty ship I said on while at Texas A&M the summer of 1975....Same year as my Airstream. Bed Zepplin was my 18 year old sons idea.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:48 PM   #18
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1962 19' Globetrotter
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1964 24' Tradewind
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I gutted my 61 GT and installed 1.5"x.5" quarter sawn oak throughout the entire interior. My subfloor was mint and I sealed it with a product Ive forgotten the name of.. Its been in for close to 3 years and I love it.. You cant get the look of real wood any other way.. I am always worried about leaks tho... When it rains hard, I go out with a flashlight and make sure she's ok! Not sure I would do it again for the paranoia reason.. I glued and stapled it in. We'll see in another 5 or 10 years.. Im in Utah, very dry, extreme swings in climate.

Jason
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:08 AM   #19
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First soak coat of varnish....I used a scrub plane on the solid mahogany floor which speeds up process and gives the floor a nice hand planed look. Three more coats of varnish and then the solid ash and mahogany cabinets and furniture goes in. Sounds like I'm adding weight but actually I machined the mahogany flooring to 1/4" and the ash interiors will be laminated strip construction with thin solid wood panels. The net effect is I'm removing about 120 lbs after pulling out all old original interiors, carpet, and foam pad.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:10 AM   #20
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I made a nice pile of mahogany shaving and got a work out to boot.....
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:39 AM   #21
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Herb, its gonna look gorgeous! I have a 72 with carpet - yuck! I've been struggling with the floor covering issue, do I go with lino or marmoleum? Love the hardwood hut not the weight. Seems like you've got the perfect solution, wish I knew someone up here in NC that would saw down wood for me.
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:40 AM   #22
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Just put third and last coat of varnish on it. It really wasn't hard. I would be happy to take you or anyone else through the steps.
Just have the wood milled with consistent width and thickness. I used 1 1/2", 2 1/4", and 3 1/4" widths.
Then I used Tightbond II and 3/4" no. 18 brads to lay it down. Used LOTS of glue.
I used a scrub plane to clean dried glue and smooth where the hardwood joined, leaving the nice subtle hand plan marks. Less dust, quicker than sanding and a good work out. Only took a few hours for the whole floor.
Then I did a wash coat of varnish and mineral spirits, scuff sand, wipe gently to let dust settle in brad holes and any cracks. Followed by second heavy varnish wash coat. Let dry then hand scuff with 150-180 grit followed by a good vacuum and cleaning then final varnish full strength. You cant mistake it for a nice solid wood floor, it's light weight, and very forgiving.
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:41 AM   #23
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By the way, the wood was milled to 1/4" thick.
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Old 07-14-2013, 06:13 AM   #24
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Thumbs up

Your efforts will be rewarded by compliments wherever you travel. Gorgeous!

another woodbutcher
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:17 AM   #25
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I have been thinking about doing our 2007 27' FB in mesquite. I have some left over from the house construction. It is now 1/2" but I could plane it to 1/4". It has a low enough coefficient of expansion that I could just glue it and not worry about other fasteners.
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Old 07-14-2013, 06:56 PM   #26
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looks great,

When I gutted mine 6 years ago, realizing how critical the wood floor I decided to fiberglass the whole floor.

used 6 oz cloth and the west system has held up 100%

had water leaks, no damage just ran off the edges
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