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Old 03-02-2010, 11:31 AM   #15
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Underlayment material?

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This is the best idea, IMHO. It's the best of both worlds: the glue will hold it for a long, long time, but technically, you still have a floating floor that could be changed relatively easily.

Of course, it's more work to put down, but should result in a perfect application.
Interested in what the underlayment material is. Is it thin sheets of wood or a specific product made for underlayment?
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:04 PM   #16
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The seams of the sub-floor sheeting should have corrugated fasteners installed every 4-5 inches to keep movement from occurring . . . then you don't have to worry about cracks developing in glue down type flooring.
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:50 PM   #17
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Interested in what the underlayment material is. Is it thin sheets of wood or a specific product made for underlayment?
Well, we used 1/4" ply in a couple of rooms in our house where it would have been a lot of work to get a flat surface (since the previous install had been glue over the subfloor).

I assumed that was what Airtandem meant in the post of his that I quoted.

If we are still talking about sheet flooring, what I have seen lately has been much thinner than was used in the past. We just re-did the floor in a bathroom, and I was surprised how thin the product was. The 1/4" ply would give extra protection to the sheet product, and a bit more sturdiness to the flooring in an AS, I would expect.
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:18 PM   #18
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Sub-floors (on older Airstream coaches) are made of 5/8ths marine grade ply.

There are may threads on this site relating to this topic that are very helpful and can be found by doing a search.

No underlayment material was used.

If you do use underlayment, make sure you watch the weight: you really wouldn't want to increase the overall weight of your TT to the point you are restricting the personal items you add when going out on a trip without going over the rating of the axles.
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:37 PM   #19
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Good point Spiffy. When I redid the floors, I used 3/4" advantech flooring, and it is pretty heavy stuff compared to the original flooring.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:51 PM   #20
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1/4" plywood is about 25 pounds per 4' X 8' sheet.

I wouldn't worry too much about that...
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:43 AM   #21
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Just a thought here - 25 pounds per sheet (@5+ sheets), plus patching material is at least 125 pounds. That's like adding a built-in generator, or 10 percent of a single axle TT gross - dry weight. One must also consider the increased weight of the flooring material itself.

Clearly it is less an issue if you have more than one axle.

Seems that if you are re-doing the floor it is likely you have also made other upgrades. If so, what additional weight was added with the other upgrades?

Point being (and I say this with experience) it is easy, even when you are trying to be weight aware, to add 300 - 500 pounds of weight when upgrading.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:14 AM   #22
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Mine is a tandem axle and I did indeed upgrade from 2600# axles to 3000# axles. Haven't decided yet if I will go the underlayment route. Too late for T&G, biscuits, dowels or corrugated fasteners (this is how it was done originally, but I've never seen these for sale) unless I want to (and I don't) rip up what I have already installed. I did the 4' x 6" wide cleat screwed and glued at each joint centered on the middle of each joint. Going to go back and add additional cleats where I can since I am leaning toward solid sheet flooring.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:46 AM   #23
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Yesterday we visited Lumber Liquidators and finally ordered floating cork flooring for our Trade Wind. The PO had refloored our coach with the adhesive backed vinyl tiles. We've enjoyed or coach for 4 years and have gradually noticed 'his' poor choice. The flexing of the coach has separated seams of the tiles which collect dirt which eventually lifts its edges which collects even more dirt AND the occasional plumbing leak. After researching HOURS of forum threads and posts on 'what flooring is 'best' we decided on, first, a floating floor because of it's ability to 'flex' with the coach's movement. Second, we chose cork for it's bare foot comfort and look. Our order will arrive in 3 weeks which doesn't give us enough time to install the flooring before our trip tp the NorCal Casini Ranch Spring Rally. Of course, I will give a photo acount of our installation process.
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:13 AM   #24
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Did you order cork sheet or tiles? I've been interested in cork for your same reasons.
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:25 AM   #25
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Did you order cork sheet or tiles? I've been interested in cork for your same reasons.
Sheet. Also got plastic moisture barrier. When I see the order I will get the 1/4 round for the edges and stain to match either the floor or the cabinetes. The cork doesn't match the cabinets (wife wanted THAT color! ) but I've done plenty of wood work to bring it all together.
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:40 AM   #26
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We have a '78 Argosy and we just put down a "floating" vinyl flooring (wood look). It went down very well but we first used Shellac-Base Primer-Sealer B-I-N Shellac Base Primer Sealer
to kill the "old trailer" smell that was embedded in the wood. This worked wonders. The plywood floor is now white underneath the vinyl and any part of the floor that is not covered (way under the kitchen sink, etc. has a very nice white look to it. The reason(s) we used the floating vinyl is that if there is ever a leak that penetrates the floor area I can lift it up and treat the floor. jjairstream
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:55 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Still need to figure what to fill the counter sunk heads of my elevator bolts in with to make them flush with the flooring.

I used a product called Fix-it-all. ( available at HD, Lowes or any other Hardware store worth their salt. Green box. ) It comes in powder form. You mix it with water and it will set up like epoxy. You can sand it smooth after it dries. You'll never be able to see where the bolt heads are after the flooring goes down.
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