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Old 06-25-2016, 06:55 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by btowntincan View Post
Hans627,
I am about to do the same to my 25'FB. I too got lucky, the floor is wet, stained and feels a bit soft in some spots, but is not rotted. I'll drill some holes in the top and apply some type of epoxy sealer, probably CPES or similar.

I plan on not doing anything to the bottom of the subfloor, but have removed the foil insulation and will be adding spacers and some stiff foam board insulation to allow moisture to run away from the floor (other threads have covered this extensively).

Hope your project goes well,
Chris
Chris,

Thanks for comments. I see you did something with the insulation under the floor. Could you point me in a direction for the threads relative to this issue? I did a search and didn't find anything. Maybe I was not in the right sub-group or was not using the proper key word(s).

Thanks,

Bob
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:59 PM   #16
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Here's a good one.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f396...-56099-18.html

That thread is massive, but a few folks actually performed and documented the fix well (notably SuperTrouper, beginning around page 18).

If you have the rear bumper leak, which is far too common in the age ranges of our trailers, you'll need to drop the belly pan (not as hard as it might seem) and remove the insulation that's under the floor. If yours is like mine, that insulation actually traps the water like a balloon and keeps it under the subfloor - due to the rear bumper leak. I've cut mine away and am letting it dry a few weeks, then reinsulating with some sturdy foam board type insulation. I'll use something to shim it away from the actual subfloor before installing it.

PM me if you need to discuss.
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:29 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by btowntincan View Post
Here's a good one.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f396...-56099-18.html

That thread is massive, but a few folks actually performed and documented the fix well (notably SuperTrouper, beginning around page 18).

If you have the rear bumper leak, which is far too common in the age ranges of our trailers, you'll need to drop the belly pan (not as hard as it might seem) and remove the insulation that's under the floor. If yours is like mine, that insulation actually traps the water like a balloon and keeps it under the subfloor - due to the rear bumper leak. I've cut mine away and am letting it dry a few weeks, then reinsulating with some sturdy foam board type insulation. I'll use something to shim it away from the actual subfloor before installing it.

PM me if you need to discuss.
Thanks for the link. SuperTrouper did a very thorough job and documenting it. The idea of removing the belly pan scared me and I was/am reluctant to take that step. I may take you up on your offer to PM you on this issue.

But first I need to fix the cause of the leak by removing the rub rail. I finally have everything I need to accomplish the task, all I need now is the time between thunderstorms.

One thing for sure, I'm learning alot, but still have a way to go!
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Old 11-15-2016, 02:10 PM   #18
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Subfloor being fully replaced, what's the IDEAL

We decided to fully replace the subfloor of our 31ft 76 Sovereign so we could get a good look at the frame and do any work necessary to ensure a longer life than it already has.

I've read through this thread and was hoping for a definitive "best option" when it comes to sealing the new subfloor. We'll be buying 3/4 plywood (didn't plan on using marine grade due to what seems like the popular opinion that it is overkill). Is the best option to seal top, bottom, edges of all plywood with epoxy? If so, what is the best product to use?

We are basically starting from scratch so I'm trying to find the best route given the "advantage" of having the subfloor already out.
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Old 11-15-2016, 02:33 PM   #19
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Use marine plywood. Don't skimp on the wood. The best marine plywood is your BEST line of defense.

Only seal the floor with epoxy if you can be 100% absolutely sure that every single nook, crannie, hole, and edge are totally 100% completely and imperviously sealed.

If you leave one tiny, tint spot open to moisture entry, it will NOT be able to escape and the floor will rot from the inside out.

Don't ask how I found THAT out.
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