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Old 07-14-2006, 01:29 PM   #1
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Smile Requesting Advice on Laminate Flooring

We are considering replacing the carpet in our 98 Classic Excella with wood grain laminate flooring. Would appreciate any experiences , both pro & con, with such installation. Should the laminate be floated, or glued down, over the subfloor when installed in a trailer? We are thinking about using a lighter colour wood grain to contrast with the existing oak cabinetry. Also considering the narrow plank format (4") to give a more realistic look. As we are in the northeast, on the ocean, we are subject to a wide range of temperatures & humidity conditions.
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:52 PM   #2
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Atlantica:



NEVER glue laminate. Always float it on the cushion foam sold for that purpose. Leave 1/8 to 1/4 inch all around the perimeter for expansion.

Don’t buy the glue-together type. Use the best quality “click” type.

In a small area like a trailer, the cost for better quality does not add up to much but the difference in serviceability is dramatic.

"Engineered wood" clicks together just like laminate but it's surface is real wood, not a photograph of wood. It doesn't cost too much more than good laminate.

Sergei
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Old 07-14-2006, 02:13 PM   #3
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You could also consider cork. It comes in light colors. Available in the floating, engineered, click together type.
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Old 07-14-2006, 09:11 PM   #4
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I am doing the laminate right now, in my 78 Sovereign. I bought an inexpensive oak from Lumber Liquidators, 10 yr warranty on it and less than 1.00 a sq foot. About 100 will do my trailer....with the foam underlayment.
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Old 07-15-2006, 01:06 AM   #5
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There is also Marmoleum Click. A click together floating marmoleum floor at http://www.themarmoleumstore.com.

This is what we are using in theVAP restoration project.
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Old 07-15-2006, 01:15 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
I am doing the laminate right now, in my 78 Sovereign. I bought an inexpensive oak from Lumber Liquidators, 10 yr warranty on it and less than 1.00 a sq foot. About 100 will do my trailer....with the foam underlayment.
Great price. I did 600 sq ft in my house with Pergo five years ago (still looks great!) and I shopped around alot, cost me a little over 2 per foot. It also weighs about 2 lbs per sq ft. Have fun! the stuff is tough to cut. I used a DeWalt compound miter with a 12" blade. It was just big enough to get a full straight cut.
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Old 07-15-2006, 06:26 AM   #7
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O.K. all you woodworker types. I'm also thinking of doing Airstream One over my down time this Dec/Jan. I've long been a fan of marquetery and wonder if anyone has used contrasting borders or medallion inserts in conjunction with the laminate flooring.
I feel the straight lam. flooring might just be a bit....boring but that's just me.
Ideas?
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Old 07-15-2006, 07:19 AM   #8
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my home flooring is WilsonARt laminate. Not cheap but has held up like iron over 10 yrs. When we extended it last year the same color and style was available,making it easier to match.
In the trailer I spent less thinking this might be something that I would change in a few years, as remodeling is much easier in the 31 than in the house.
I am sort of thinking about running it sideways in the living area, and the long way in the middle to the bedroom in the back. Seen that in some house it looks good. Any thoughts?
Also I bought 100 feet of underlayment and ran 8 sqare short. Any suggestions of what I could use need instead, as I don't another 100'sq ft.
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Old 07-15-2006, 07:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
... I've long been a fan of marquetery and wonder if anyone has used contrasting borders or medallion inserts in conjunction with the laminate flooring. I feel the straight lam. flooring might just be a bit....boring but that's just me.
Ideas?
If I understand what you're thinking of doing, I don't think it's possible. Since the flooring floats, it clicks together on all edges (this means the ends), so the only edges you can trim are the outside trim lines of the floor. You can't insert pieces. I haven't checked, but you might be able to do herringbone, but that's about all.

In other news, I've done a couple floors (Bambi, Caravel, Overlander, doing the Sovereign now) and I recommend putting in some natural "breaks" in the flooring so that each section can be removed independently. I use the metal strips that are usually used to joing flooring to carpet to cover the joint, about 3/4" wide and brass-colored. My experience is that this stuff lasts a long time, but if you need to do work on the subfloor (around the door, for example) you can get at it without taking out the entire flooring. I separated my front dinning area, the kitchen, the bedroom, and the bath (rear bath Overlander). The joints make for natural breaks visually between these areas.

In the Sovereign you can see how the bath is separated. Most of this joint will be covered by two wall panels. Take out the wall panels and the floor comes right up.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/242047-post1.html
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Old 07-15-2006, 08:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium

... I recommend putting in some natural "breaks" in the flooring so that each section can be removed independently. I use the metal strips that are usually used to joing flooring to carpet to cover the joint, about 3/4" wide and brass-colored. My experience is that this stuff lasts a long time, but if you need to do work on the subfloor (around the door, for example) you can get at it without taking out the entire flooring. I separated my front dinning area, the kitchen, the bedroom, and the bath (rear bath Overlander). The joints make for natural breaks visually between these areas.
Absolutely a must!

I installed it lengthways as I wasn't sure it would look good side to side. http://www.airforums.com/forum...41-post52.html. After seeing other members pics of laying it side to side I see that it still looks great.

After a recent 1600 mile trip, I wish I had installed it side to side or put in natural "breaks". The frame in my 26' evidently flexes enough that my flooring is buckling at the ends (lenghtwise) joints. I'm going to have to pull it up and replace most of it. When I redo it, I think I'll do each "room" seperately. i.e. living room, kitchen, bedroom/bathrom. That should give it enough flex room without buckling at the joints. (I'll try and post a picture of the buckling later today).
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Old 07-15-2006, 05:20 PM   #11
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It buckles because the frame flexes mostly across the axle(s), eg, nose and tail up and down. You can lay the laminate lengthwise in the front and rear, but not over the axles and a few feet on either side. I can actually feel a slight bend in the floor in both my Overlander and Sovereign right at the axles as I walk, but no sign of tail separation. That was my first clue that sideways was the way to do it.

I don't think this would be a problem in an 18 or 19 ft trailer, but longer than that I'd always go with sideways laminate.
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Old 07-17-2006, 05:45 PM   #12
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well after two days in 95 degree heat I, the world's most mediocre carpenter, with the email and pm advice of a few great members here...have got my oak laminate installed in the living and kitchen areas. Only the hall remains, as I think I will use Berber in the bedroom. I have some left from my motorhome install, so it will feel nostalgic.
I have not settled the battery box issue, so I will need to do that and finish the walls before putting back the gaucho and table.

http://www.airforums.com/photo...=2075#post2075
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Old 07-17-2006, 07:50 PM   #13
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Looks Great!
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:45 PM   #14
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Alan,
Looks very nice, too bad there is no dog house for you to cover.
What happens at the refrigerator? When I install the laminate flooring we have the refrigerator will be under the floor which means if it ever needs replacing the floor must come out.
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