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Old 01-12-2016, 05:49 PM   #1
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Paper Flooring?

Hi all,

Possibly getting our first AS this weekend, and planning on taking the carpet, sofa, and twin beds out. Was just curious if I could get some more opinions on a concept I found in another couple year old thread on here about "paper flooring." Quoting 911Patriot..

"I know many will call me crazy but I wanted to share how I finished the floor in our '91 Excella. After ripping out the carpeting (the worst part of my remodel), I sanded the rough spots and filled in the screw holes with wood putty. After that I painted 2 coats of primer on the plywood. I bought a roll of white butcher paper at Sam's in the restaurant section for about $18. I ripped pieces about 12" x 12" and crumpled them up. After that the crumpled pieces were applied to the floor with a 4" brush using a combination of about 1/2 Elmer's glue and 1/2 water. While the floor
dried it left many wrinkles. That's ok. They eventually settled down and just provided a textured look. When it that was thoroughly dry I applied a coat of water based polyurethane. Before the poly dried (working in sections), I took a shaker of metal flake and a shaker of fine crystals and sprinkled them all over. I followed up with 3 more coats of poly over the sprinkles. I had originally found the idea for this on YouTube when I saw people doing "Paper bag floors" The paper bag floor was not what I had in
mind because I wanted an Atomic Modern clean look so I just kicked it up a notch and a half. We just got back from our first trip which was out West. It performed perfectly. If I tire of it it can always be covered
by a more conventional method but I don't see that happening any time soon. Here are some photos: Atomic Modern Bursts - Atomic modern bursts and decals added to '91 Excella Photo Gallery & http://www.airforums.com/photos/showimage.php?i=34730&catid=member&imageuser=70404 ."

It seems the general consensus on this idea was that it is a wonderful idea, and as an artist, it sounds the easiest and most cost effective of all options for me, which I can simply floor over if necessary in the future.

Has anyone ever heard of other people doing this or done it themselves? Saw one video on youtube of a lady doing it on the steps for her RV, but I am really interested in knowing how it holds up for flooring in a full-time living situation. People do it in their houses, so I'm guessing it would, but I don't want to make risky guesses.

Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:28 PM   #2
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We installed nice laminated scraped wood.. After removing carpet, it added about 50 pounds. Also, expansion and flex are not an issue.

I did it in two afternoons in our 34' AS
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:05 AM   #3
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We installed nice laminated scraped wood.. After removing carpet, it added about 50 pounds. Also, expansion and flex are not an issue.

I did it in two afternoons in our 34' AS
Wow, I like the "scraped" look and texture more than other laminates - I haven't seen that one yet! Where did you get it from? If it was really that easy to install, we'd likely do that. Also, about how much did that cost?

Thanks for sharing!
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:13 AM   #4
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I would think about how removable the paper flooring would be in the future. If you get tired of it, or if it does not hold up as well as you would like, can you remove it easily to replace it with something else? It sounds like it would be pretty bonded to the original sub floor.

Stiles, ideas and decor change with time. Be sure your trailer can change too.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:24 AM   #5
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...can you remove it easily to replace it with something else? It sounds like it would be pretty bonded to the original sub floor.
The idea behind it was that if you wanted to change the flooring, you could just floor over it, but I don't know if those talking about it had done it before, just wanted to confirm it with someone who had the flooring for a long period of time. That was one of the big reasons I took to the idea, so I wouldn't have to pull something up to redo flooring.
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:36 PM   #6
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I bought at "Lumber Liquidator". Cost a lot a $1.50 per square foot. Already has a "backing foam!! Keeps quiet and warmer. Snaps together. And it "floats" so, no GLUE! I trimmed to fit with a 1/8" space to walls and furniture. Ran the front by entrNce one way, turned at the Galley the. Same pattern to stern. To cover the "1/8" border I used "1/4 round" shoe molding. I used a "pin/brad" air nailer to drive a few well Spaced pins. Small ones I glued with liquid nails and filled gaps with tinted silicone.

3 years, no issues... No separations.. Still "flat" against the flooring plywood.
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:55 PM   #7
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I bought at "Lumber Liquidator". Cost a lot a $1.50 per square foot. Already has a "backing foam!! Keeps quiet and warmer. Snaps together. And it "floats" so, no GLUE! I trimmed to fit with a 1/8" space to walls and furniture. Ran the front by entrNce one way, turned at the Galley the. Same pattern to stern. To cover the "1/8" border I used "1/4 round" shoe molding. I used a "pin/brad" air nailer to drive a few well Spaced pins. Small ones I glued with liquid nails and filled gaps with tinted silicone.

3 years, no issues... No separations.. Still "flat" against the flooring plywood.
Sounds great! Found what looks to be pretty much the same thing, it's with 12mm v-groove laminate and 1/8 thick pre backed foam.. on lumber liquidators site .. We are also going to be building a queen bed frame and sitting area frame, as well as installing a table. Would we want to install all of that before we lay down the floating floor, and floor around it? Thanks again!
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:18 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by cwf View Post
I bought at "Lumber Liquidator". Cost a lot a $1.50 per square foot. Already has a "backing foam!! Keeps quiet and warmer. Snaps together. And it "floats" so, no GLUE! I trimmed to fit with a 1/8" space to walls and furniture. Ran the front by entrNce one way, turned at the Galley the. Same pattern to stern. To cover the "1/8" border I used "1/4 round" shoe molding. I used a "pin/brad" air nailer to drive a few well Spaced pins. Small ones I glued with liquid nails and filled gaps with tinted silicone.

3 years, no issues... No separations.. Still "flat" against the flooring plywood.
Sounds great! Found some 12mm laminate wood on Lumber Liquidator, think it's what you described just not the same style.. If we are going to be building a queen bed frame, a u-shaped sofa as well as installing a table, should we tear up the carpet, install everything and then lay down the flooring? Or is it okay to build over the flooring? Also, do you pin the flooring down anywhere, or just the 1/4 round shoe molding?
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:50 PM   #9
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Here is what we have in our standard HOME and in our AS home:

12mm+pad Golden Summer Teak - Dream Home - Kensington Manor | Lumber Liquidators

That is what is in the 'picture' I posted and near what I paid for it 3 years ago...

I ripped out ALL carpet. I then used needle nose pliers to 'pluck' out the remainder I could see and cut close to cabinets with a SHARP razor utility blade... get a bunch of blades.. you will need them..

Much of the carpet was 'stuck' under cabinetry because AS puts the carpet/vinyl in BEFORE building inside..at least on ones I have seen... (standard practice in RV manufacture....some remains like under the dinette storage and other cabinets.. i just cut 'close'..

Then, I would 'repair' any flooring issues, then I would "build" all that you need to so that you can ensure it is properly attached. The 'flooring' should 'float'.. and if you build on it, it can't float... without causing problems..

Once all 'building' is complete, then I would install the flooring... the flooring clicks together (tightly)... and is FLOATING... It is NOT glued at all!! It is not PINNED, nailed or stapled... FLOATING...

I ONLY pinned the 1/4 round in a few places then 'construction' adhesive in others (careful the glue does not show)...and I only glued to the 'vertical' surfaces like walls, cabinet fronts, etc...with a few 'pins'/18GA nails... use them judiciously.. they should only penetrate the wood then about 3/8" into the vertical.

For direction changes and transitions, I used construction adhesive and bonded ONE side to the 'long run' of the planks and a few spots on the original plywood floor. That lets the long run's expand and contract..the snap together edges hold things in place.

Does that make sense?
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Old 01-14-2016, 03:12 PM   #10
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Does that make sense?
That information was exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much!!
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