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Old 10-24-2016, 03:24 PM   #1
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New flooring over vinyl? Bad idea?

We have a 2014 Airstream and have been looking at options for flooring other than the stock vinyl. We also may be removing much of the cabinetry so have options where that would help.

If we kept the cabinetry could I just lay a floating floor over the vinyl between the cabinets? Should I cut as much of the vinyl out as I can and lay the new floor directly on the subfloor instead?

Or if I remove the cabinets should I just pull the vinyl and lay a non-floating floor? Or use a floating floor with the cabinets on top?

What's the concensus on best option? We will be moving the trailer a lot as it's intended. This won't be for a stationary install.

Thanks.
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Old 10-24-2016, 03:41 PM   #2
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I removed the cabinets, left the original flooring and installed Shaw Forte flooring. Reinstalled cabinets. Very happy with results.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-24-2016, 03:50 PM   #3
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We had a profesional Airstream uplifter replaced the floor in our trailer. They removed the old vinyl flooring then laid down new bamboo hardwood - glued and stapled to help mitigate expansion / contraction...
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:00 PM   #4
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2 responses that are completely opposite. Glad they both worked.

Leaning toward the overlay like sherriff1.
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:36 PM   #5
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If I were the one that had done the work I probably would've gone in that direction :-)

If it's a floating floor worst case you pull it up if it doesn't pan out ...
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:43 PM   #6
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If I were the one that had done the work I probably would've gone in that direction :-)

If it's a floating floor worst case you pull it up if it doesn't pan out ...
True. But not easily if I put it under the cabinets.
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:06 PM   #7
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I removed the cabinets, left the original flooring and installed Shaw Forte flooring. Reinstalled cabinets. Very happy with results.
Is that Shaw Floorte? The luxury vinyl flooring?

You don't get an buckling after installing the cabinets on it?
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:09 PM   #8
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We had a profesional Airstream uplifter replaced the floor in our trailer. They removed the old vinyl flooring then laid down new bamboo hardwood - glued and stapled to help mitigate expansion / contraction...
I hope you don't have any issues, but I would not use bamboo. It is no hardwood, but a grass. I use it quite often, but it moves ALOT if it gets wet.

I installed one floor when bamboo was first becoming available circa 2000, it was not pre finished, and it buckled the whole 3000 sqft because the cement wasn't properly sealed after the first rain. The pre finished will perform much better, but the fact remains that bamboo moves. A lot.

To the OP, I've installed a bit of flooring(on homes) over vinyl with no ill effects. Glue probably won't help, but either floating or staple down should work.

Good luck!
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Old 10-24-2016, 07:19 PM   #9
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I would not remove the cabinets unless you are planning a complete remodel, like I did. We chose Forbo Marmoleum and LOVE it.
It is relatively easy to cut out the old vinyl and remove it.
The less weight you have on the floor means, more weight you have for other things.

my .02

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Old 10-24-2016, 07:45 PM   #10
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This is the layout of my trailer. Everything from the fridge forward on the curb side and everything from the pantry forward on the street side might be replaced. I will not be pulling out the fridge or bath. That still makes full flooring in 2/3 of the trailer easy.

Not 100% sure what I would do for the rear bed/bath area. I could remove the toilet and bring the flooring into the bath, so long as the toilet flange can accommodate the extra height. I'd also have to figure out trim around the bathroom cabinet (it's round) or maybe I can sneak the floor under the existing trim. I suppose I could also remove the cabinet and then reinstall it. I'd also have to trim by the shower.

Or I can put in a threshold and leave the stock flooring in the bathroom.

I'm assuming the bed can be removed and reinstalled with new flooring under it fairly easily.


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Old 10-24-2016, 07:59 PM   #11
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Take out the things you plan to take out and put new flooring down. Put a threshold/molding for the bath and leave the existing flooring there.
I would still remove the old vinyl.

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Old 10-24-2016, 08:14 PM   #12
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New flooring over vinyl? Bad idea?

Shaw floorte color Luce. I lifted the cabinets in the bathroom, removed the toilet and unscrewed the toilet flange, plenty of threads to reinstall after new flooring installed. No need or reason to remove old flooring IMHO.


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Old 10-24-2016, 08:24 PM   #13
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Floating flooring (as well as sheet vinyl) will move with temperature changes. The greater the difference (high to low), the greater the shrink/swell factor. The product is intended for use in homes with a more controlled high/low swing than your trailer will experience and why none of the manufacturer's warranty this type install.

The thicker floating floor material movement tends to be more noticeable, especially as joint gaps are visible. If it was my unit, I'd use full sheet Marmoleum if the cabinets were removed, but I would NOT put the floating floor under the cabinets. It is a trickier install with all the curves and different cabinet positions but there are clever ways to add edge trim to hide the small gap you need to leave around the perimeter. You might consider using an appropriately toned vinyl 1/4 round to match the cabinets or flooring: secure it horizontally, not through the flooring! The toilet may need a shim plate to ensure you have matched the height of the floating flooring if it is one of the thicker versions, most don't.

I've seen many nice floating installs that looked quite different after a full year of winter/summer service. The tape/glue lapped products tend to separate and the click joint versions do better. Just make sure the floor is uniformly flat throughout; avoid leaving the old vinyl substrate in one part and not another as the seam location will telegraph through.
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMore View Post
Floating flooring (as well as sheet vinyl) will move with temperature changes. The greater the difference (high to low), the greater the shrink/swell factor. The product is intended for use in homes with a more controlled high/low swing than your trailer will experience and why none of the manufacturer's warranty this type install.

The thicker floating floor material movement tends to be more noticeable, especially as joint gaps are visible. If it was my unit, I'd use full sheet Marmoleum if the cabinets were removed, but I would NOT put the floating floor under the cabinets. It is a trickier install with all the curves and different cabinet positions but there are clever ways to add edge trim to hide the small gap you need to leave around the perimeter. You might consider using an appropriately toned vinyl 1/4 round to match the cabinets or flooring: secure it horizontally, not through the flooring! The toilet may need a shim plate to ensure you have matched the height of the floating flooring if it is one of the thicker versions, most don't.

I've seen many nice floating installs that looked quite different after a full year of winter/summer service. The tape/glue lapped products tend to separate and the click joint versions do better. Just make sure the floor is uniformly flat throughout; avoid leaving the old vinyl substrate in one part and not another as the seam location will telegraph through.
I'd love to put a full sheet down but that means I'd have to remove the rear bath, fridge, etc. Much bigger job than just the cabinets I may remove anyway.
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Old 10-25-2016, 02:44 AM   #15
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Shaw floorte color Luce. I lifted the cabinets in the bathroom, removed the toilet and unscrewed the toilet flange, plenty of threads to reinstall after new flooring installed. No need or reason to remove old flooring IMHO.


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Thanks. How long have you had the flooring in?
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:24 AM   #16
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New flooring over vinyl? Bad idea?

Just short of a year including a few 100 degree days with the unit closed up. Floorte's claim is minimal expansion contraction, so far so good. It's thicker than box store brands and has a more robust click together area. The cabinets all mounted to the walls not the floor and I removed the dinette seating in favor of recliners. Left the bed in place and made templates to fit around it. Used stock plastic 1/4 round where it looked appropriate and calked any other small gaps.

Your results may vary.


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Old 10-25-2016, 09:30 AM   #17
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I hope you don't have any issues, but I would not use bamboo. It is no hardwood, but a grass. I use it quite often, but it moves ALOT if it gets wet.

I installed one floor when bamboo was first becoming available circa 2000, it was not pre finished, and it buckled the whole 3000 sqft because the cement wasn't properly sealed after the first rain. The pre finished will perform much better, but the fact remains that bamboo moves. A lot.
I hope so too. The product we used is called Plyboo and it is 100% bamboo but constructed as a plywood with alternating grains to resist expansion / contraction. This is a pre-finished product and the surface seems to be very hard / impact resistant. It is a click lock application but in our case glue and nails were also used.

Timeless travel trailers have used it in the past with success so we went with that... only time will tell!

http://www.plyboo.com/plyboodirect/v...boo-floor.html
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Old 10-26-2016, 10:23 AM   #18
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I'm ready to put flooring down in my 31 and trying to learn more about the solid sheet options. Agreed that the click or glue together strips could be problematic based upon temp variations and flexing. Solid sheeting seems like a no trainer, bit there are manufacturers, materials differences, thickness, float vs adhere considerations. What should one steer clear of from a manufacturer perspective?
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