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Old 12-31-2008, 05:05 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by TomW View Post
Yeah, this thread is so old that I think I started it before Inland Andy started the first axle thread.



Tom
Au contraire, my dear friend. Here is a post that precedes this thread by almost a couple of years!
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:17 PM   #30
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Feeling cocky are you?

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Au contraire, my dear friend. Here is a post [see below] that precedes this thread by almost a couple of years!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
AJ. Go to our web site, inlandrv.com Click on articles, and then click on "Dura-torque axles."
That article describes a check out for your axles. You may have a bad axle or two.


Andy
Yeah, Don, but since Andy does not spell out certain doom in the post, does this one count?


Tom
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Old 01-02-2009, 05:56 AM   #31
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I think you guys are doing all this the hard way just use fiberglass cloth and resin to patch.

OR

In fact that's how i did my whole floor, got 6oz fiberglass cloth about 50 inches wide did one half then the other,

It can stand up to an 800 lb gorrilla, cost $125, 3-4 hours, done forever.
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Old 01-08-2009, 09:36 PM   #32
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ID:	73536I will be puting down Luan this week-end here in central Georgia. I plan to clean and level out as best I can the old factory tiles. I plan to liquid nail the perimeters and joints.
I am laying the luan across side to side in our 19' '63 Globetrotter. I need this done before cabinets get measured on Tuesday at the carpentry shop. They request the our trailer be right there on measurements and fabrication. Lowes had a indoor out door woven material that is soft to the touch but looks like horse hair rows we are thinking seriously about. But no decision yet. Congolium is begining to sound pretty good and comes in some cool designs.
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:26 PM   #33
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I would have never believed it...

Thats amazing... i have never seen anything like that. Does that mean from now forward this trailer will never have to worry about floor rot again? Why didnt airstream do this to begin with as the floor seems to be the weak point for longevity.. Do you expect some stress cracking or any problems with the fiberglass?

Cool idea.

Vinnie


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Originally Posted by LI Pets View Post
I think you guys are doing all this the hard way just use fiberglass cloth and resin to patch.

OR

In fact that's how i did my whole floor, got 6oz fiberglass cloth about 50 inches wide did one half then the other,

It can stand up to an 800 lb gorrilla, cost $125, 3-4 hours, done forever.
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Old 01-12-2009, 10:08 AM   #34
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Flooring Luan Underlayment

Hey there, I got it done and it was easy for me with just a 19' Globe Trotter. I patched a isolated hole that was rotten from a exterior leak in skin where dented. Must've been like that for a long time. I used preassure treated wood and cut a piece to fit under solid flooring and then cut my piece to go on top.Then screwed both down with exterior construction screws that I had.
Next I prepared the floor with a good sweeping. I laid out my construction brown paper and cut a pattern for the rear bath area. I glued around sink, tub and black water tank holes, the edges and center area. Careful not to muck all the glue I slid the luan into place and screwed down to keep floor tight. I need my tub in and black tank to start the cabinets because of the tight measurements. It sure looks good with the new luan flooring and now I won't worry about the scunky smells that lie beneath.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:36 PM   #35
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as a floorcovering installer if you are going with a hard surface in your baby as ( linoleum,hardwood) i would personaly put luan down with skimming your seams with ardex to give you a smooth flat surface.there is no reason to take old floor up and all you would be doing is sturding your exsisting floor . just a suggestion.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:47 PM   #36
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rv-n,
Are you saying to "skim" the original floor with ardex and then put the luan down or put the luan down and then skim the seams/joints? I'm at a similar place w/my trailer, basically a very "rough" sub-floor w/areas where i have not been able to remove the old asbestos tiles and black tar mastic and areas where I have gotten down to the original plywood . . . and then areas of new/replacement plywood.
Thanks, MarkR
oh, and i am planning on putting down sheet linoleum
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:04 PM   #37
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after you get luan down skim the whole floor,joints, etc as ardex is a levaler and will level your low spots . use a trial the flat side going left to right covering all areas once dry go back with puddy knife to get excess fine sweep and youll have a nice flat surface for you linoleum . hope this helped you.
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Old 02-02-2009, 04:50 PM   #38
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Luan Floor

Hey there,
Your post got me started and I have finished the work except for the ardex selfleveler compound. And I think that because my floor is so small it may not even need the detailing with ardex. Looking at the photos though it looks like I could use some huh? But when your inside it doesn't appear so.
Especially if we go with carpet.
I like the knowlege though and glad to know that. we were thinking of installing the floor before the bathtub and water tank etc. but nixed it in exchange for cutting to fit as soon as possible.
Have fun! we did.
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Old 02-02-2009, 10:43 PM   #39
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I used the glue that is used for outdoor carpet and brads to nail down luan. Next I (per my neighbor who is an installer) used joint compound on the seams. I made sure that the joints in the luan and the plywood subfloor did not overlap. Next I used very good vinyl that was glued down, the neighbor did this step, than I used base around the edges to prevent curling. All seams were sealed with a vinyl glue. Its been 2 years and sitting the the Iowa cold and heat hasn't bothered it.
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:14 PM   #40
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We used the ARDEX that came with the install kit for our 12x12 cork tile. Yes, you can see the floor joins. No, it ain't a problem.

The Ardex Feather Finish is great stuff for what DIDN'T "telegraph" through!
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:09 PM   #41
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Curtis Wright floor progress

After reading this thread I went with the luan over new marine plywood and Armstrong linoleum (VCT) final. All edges were coated with vulcem and the plywood painted with industrial floor coating. Luan attached with industrial floor adhesive and screwed down with #8 x 3/4 screws. Screw heads and seams were filled with wood filler and belt sanded smooth. Tomorrow comes the tile glue down and roll out.

Please note the Zolatone which I did last week.
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:19 PM   #42
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Looks great!

That VCT adhesive can be REALLY noxious stuff, be sure your area is EXTREMELY well ventilated, open all windows and use extra box fans if you have them. Also, take regular breaks if at all possible.

Good luck!

-Marcus
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