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Old 12-30-2008, 11:52 AM   #15
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Hopefully Steve will answer you since he's done it before.

In home applications, I've heard of it simply being screwed to the subfloor, and then some sort of filler used over the screwheads.

I'm still trying to figure out what the best filler would be for my recessed elevator bolt heads, assuming I do not lay luaun over it. I need something that will stick when the flooring adhesive is applied over it, and I've heard from some on the forums that bondo and some types of wood filler just pull right out.

-Marcus
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Old 12-30-2008, 12:02 PM   #16
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How about epoxy to cover the bolts.....
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Old 12-30-2008, 01:07 PM   #17
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I used floor leveller to fill the elevator bolt heads, and a belt sander to knock down any high seams between the subfloor joints.

Then I laid 1/4" plywood underlayment on top of the subfloor. According to the experts, luan plywood is "not approved" for use under VCT tile, but that's a whole other debate.

I stapled it down, 6" in the field, 3" on the edges. Sure was a whole lot of staples. I laid white VCT on top of the underlayment, then covered that up with cork.
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Old 12-31-2008, 05:28 AM   #18
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I have a question for anybody that has used the luan. How did you fasten it to the subfloor?

Jim
I used construction adhesive and underlayment screws on a 6" x 6" pattern.
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:17 AM   #19
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Just make sure the underlayment you use is made with waterproof (exterior) glue.
You don't want it to delaminate the first time a little moisture hits it.
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Old 12-31-2008, 10:55 AM   #20
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That's the reason I was told not to use Luan.

Some of it is OK for underlayment (will be stamped as underlayment grade), but the paneling grade Luan isn't.

A lot of the stuff you will find at HD is the paneling grade.
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:13 PM   #21
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Well, I did go to the trouble of buying exterior grade ply for the subfloor in order to get the waterproof glue, so it certainly wouldn't make much sense to use non-waterproof luaun for underlayment.
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:04 PM   #22
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I don't know what decking you used for a subfloor, but I would use 1/4 or 3/8 plywood rather than luan. Luan is fairly soft wood and that's why it's light. It's not very strong. I would waterproof the plywood on both sides and the cut edges with something like polyurethane. Make sure the vinyl adhesive will stick to the polyurethane. You could secure it with construction adhesive and brads slightly shorter than the combination of the plywood and decking. If you use a nail (brad) gun, it will drive the brads just below the surface if you set the gun adjustment properly. Since I discovered nail guns, I am a much happier remodeler and my hammer elbow (just like tennis elbow) doesn't reappear every time I need to nail things.

Vinyl should last a lot longer than linoleum. Linoleum is porous and needs to be sealed periodically also. I suspect a lot of people use vinyl tiles because cutting sheet vinyl to fit around all the objects in the trailer requires some experience. I'll try almost anything, but I know when to hire a professional. In my '08 trailer, it looks like the vinyl is installed first and all the cabinets, etc., installed afterward. That means much, much less labor. I would hate to have to decide whether to remove all the cabinets and partitions to install a new floor—either way is a lot of work and potential disasters. Tiles can move and leave ugly spaces between them and that allows water penetration. I would leave that to professionals too.

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Old 12-31-2008, 03:28 PM   #23
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Thanks for the insights, CG.

Given unlimited resources, I'd hire the entire job out to Frank's Trailer Works in Baltimore, Maryland!

Alas, I have a VERY limited budget, so I have no choice but to tackle the floor installation on my own. Additionally, I really enjoy DIY projects, so I'm happy to do the work myself, I just want to make sure I'm approaching things from the right direction.




The good news is that my interior is already all out, so I don't have to worry about cutting in around furniture and appliances and such...
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:09 PM   #24
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The good news is that my interior is already all out, so I don't have to worry about cutting in around furniture and appliances and such...
In that case, go for it! How about an Italian marble floor?

Gene
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:11 PM   #25
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I'm still trying to figure out what the best filler would be for my recessed elevator bolt heads, assuming I do not lay luaun over it. I need something that will stick when the flooring adhesive is applied over it, and I've heard from some on the forums that bondo and some types of wood filler just pull right out.
I have used a urethane concrete crack filler for similar projects. It is self leveling and sticks to anything. Comes in a caulking tube.
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:14 PM   #26
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I went to the home improvement store

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... I'm still trying to figure out what the best filler would be for my recessed elevator bolt heads ...
I used the floor leveling compound available from home centers. Sold in dry form, the directions read that it could be mixed with water, but for best results use the complementary, diluted snake oil sold next to it instead. Not wanting to take chances, I purchased a gallon of the recommended mix agent. The result was wonderful, and I am still happy with the way the [finished] floor covering turned out.

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Old 12-31-2008, 04:21 PM   #27
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Ha! Italian marble indeed!

Fyrz-- Thanks for the tip. That stuff sounds pretty rugged to me.

Tom-- I've bought a lot of snake oil in my time, so this certainly wouldn't be the first!

And do you like the play your ancient old thread is currently getting? These Forums never cease to amaze me with the breadth and depth of information available in real-time, or in archived form.
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:33 PM   #28
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Speak up, sonny

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Tom-- ... do you like the play your ancient old thread is currently getting? These Forums never cease to amaze me with the breadth and depth of information available in real-time, or in archived form.
Yeah, this thread is so old that I think I started it before Inland Andy started the first axle thread.



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