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Old 06-12-2015, 02:08 PM   #1
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Laying laminate flooring

Hi, I have 31' 1971 Sovereign that is currently fully gutted inside. I have repaired some leaks and replaced some rotten floor and have just finished a full interior paint. (Thanks to the great advice of this forum for paint / primer choices).
I will be laying a laminate floor and was wondering if anyone had advice regarding whether it's best done first, wall to wall and then have cabinets etc installed on top or is it better to build out and install everything first right on the subfloor and then just lay laminate on the remaining exposed floor. I can see advantage and disadvantages to either. Thanks.
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:39 PM   #2
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I recently did my 95 and found it difficult to navigate around the different edges. It was worth the effort but If I could have installed not around the cabinets and everything else the job would have been easier.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:01 PM   #3
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The issue you'll run into with laying the entire floor and then cabinets and stuff is if your laminate is designed to be installed as a "floating floor," meaning it has to have room to expand and contract independently of the trailer plywood floor.

In that case, the cabinets would secure the laminate to the plywood, and your laminate could then have issues.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:19 PM   #4
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Ripped out carpet & installed engineered laminate with pre installed foam backing. Ran den one way, hallway another, bedroom same as hall but added a transition strip at each location.

I would install cabinets first.. They need a firm reliable mount.
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Old 06-12-2015, 10:37 PM   #5
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I am a firm believer of not running any flooring under the cabinets. If the flooring fails or you just hate it ( ie it scratched, faded in the sun, developed gaps) replacing the flooring later may mean removing cabinets if you want it all removed. Plus it makes it harder to monitor water leaks where they are most likely to occur ( the perimeter).

Additionally the water can trap between the plywood and finished floor leading to rot. Wouldn't it be nice to look at your subfloor and know immediately if you have an active leak?

Yeah trimming everything to look nice around the cabinets is a pain but one I'm willing to endure to catch leaks on a proactive basis. Cause if there's one thing we all know is , sooner or later, they all leak!
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Old 06-13-2015, 10:51 AM   #6
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Thanks. That's all good advice. I was leaning toward cabinets first then flooring for many of the suggested reasons but I think leak monitoring is probably the key one.
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:21 AM   #7
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the cost and the added WEIGHT to go wall to wall for no gain,pass.
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Old 02-25-2016, 09:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nskinner View Post
Hi, I have 31' 1971 Sovereign that is currently fully gutted inside. I have repaired some leaks and replaced some rotten floor and have just finished a full interior paint. (Thanks to the great advice of this forum for paint / primer choices).
I will be laying a laminate floor and was wondering if anyone had advice regarding whether it's best done first, wall to wall and then have cabinets etc installed on top or is it better to build out and install everything first right on the subfloor and then just lay laminate on the remaining exposed floor. I can see advantage and disadvantages to either. Thanks.
Hi Nskinner,

Do you mind sharing which prep/primer/paint you decided to go with for the inside? We are neck deep in our 31' 1979 Sovereign gut job and are torn between the many recommended products on this site. All we've done so far is begin the end caps with Krylon Fusion which has gone well so far.

Good luck with the laminate floor. I'll be following this post for advice on this as well, as that is not far off for us either.

Thanks for the tips.
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Old 02-29-2016, 04:41 PM   #9
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sorry for the late reply

I paid a lot of attention and spent a lot of time on prep, following the advice I got here. I may have over done it...but it's been almost a year since I did the painting and it's all still as good as the day it was finished.
I scrubbed all surfaces with Spray Nine, rinsed and dried, then re-scrubbed with TSP, then did a light sand. I used Kilz stain blocker primer, 2 coats and then a regular Benjamin Moore interior latex top coat x 2. It still looks perfect, no peeling, no bleed through or tackiness at all. I'm planning to finally get a blog started tonight if you want to look at some pics as I go. Good luck!
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Old 03-31-2016, 09:34 AM   #10
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I receive my LVT locking planks tomorrow. I have NEVER used anything on a floor but porcelain tile in a house. My plan is to lay the floating plank over the OEM vinyl. i sliced it open already to check the plywood flooring. Looks good except at some point it looks like there was a leak of bleach water that ran out on the floor from under the kitchen sink- also where the fresh water fill is located., AND I plan to lay it around the fixtures except the sofa where I will drill bigger than needed holes for the studs and hope for the best. Any pointers on floating click lock?

I have already been told to measure the width and make sure I have at least 2-3 inches of plank per side (cut the first plank width not to leave a tiny strip on the other side).

The product installation guide says NOT to lay it on cushion-backed vinyl. I do not believe the AS vinyl or laminate is cushioned back as thin as it is- am I correct?

It also says not to lay it on a floating floor but the AS floor, while not glued down, is tacked into the walls so it is really not moveable right?

What product did Airstream use? Laminate or sheet vinyl? I believe it is sheet vinyl.
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Old 03-31-2016, 09:49 AM   #11
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After repairing the subfloor I chose a similar path. I laid vinyl squares to simulate the original construction under the cabinetry. Next I glued down a vinyl planking "floating floor" making sure to glue the joints as well.
The decision to glue was made after seeing problems that had occurred in other vintage trailers and speaking with the manufacturer of the vinyl planking.
good luck! we all do things different so not sure there is a "right way".
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Old 03-31-2016, 04:23 PM   #12
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I called Airstream tech today and they told me that they have been using sheet vinyl for several years. Not sure what the difference is but my instructions say NOT to lay on laminate but ok to lay on vinyl.
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Old 03-31-2016, 05:52 PM   #13
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OK, good news for those shopping for flooring, the IVC flooring brochure states that the LVT does not expand or contract as it is based on a PVC core with fiberglass encasement. I will share my experiences.
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Old 04-03-2016, 06:50 AM   #14
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Question. I spent last evening prepping for the LVT plank install. I am concerned about laying the planks over the original vinyl sheet now. I used a utility knife to cut inspection sections out of the vinyl to check the wood subfloor for any leaks but the cut edges have curled a bit and now don't match up just right. I can staple the edges down but there will be a small gap between the two edges.

An installer and my father told me to leave the original vinyl, if possible, as a water barrier for the edges in case of a spill etc.

The subfloor is in good condition but the cut up vinyl creates some slight unevenness with the various cutouts, now stapled down but... Add to that the removed carpet from the bedroom now has a vinyl/no vinyl line. The sheet vinyl/no vinyl line is about 2mm difference- the OEM stuff is really thin. ALSO, what did you installers use to cut this stuff with. It says utility knife. I just tried and it is really tough- like cutting thick plastic.
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