Laminate Flooring Help!

Safari Tim · 02-23-2005, 07:12 PM

I need some ideas for making a transition from the laminate floor to the web bath.

The wet bath shower pan flange extends into the living area. I stopped short of the flange with the flooring as seen in the pictures.

I hoped something at the home center would work but I cannot find anything.

I also need some ideas on the transition to the entrance door. I was hoping I could use quarter round but it extends to high at the door frame.

Thanks for any input.

RichardT · 02-23-2005, 07:17 PM

My Idea.

Cut a cardboard template to fit and transfer that to a piece of aluminum plate.
Any metal shop should be able to cut this for you if you do not have the tools to do it cleanly.

Drill countersunk holes and use a countersunk flathead screw

You could use flat aluminum or diamond plate, or you could use wood depending on the look you want.

hhuber · 02-23-2005, 07:44 PM

I would just use some kind of clear caulk at the entrance door. It looks like the flooring comes pretty close. Ours is just caulked and it looks and works fine.
Heidi

j54mark · 02-23-2005, 07:45 PM

I had forgotten about this problem, but I made trim for both the bath transition (laminate to vinyl) and for the entry. I made mine of oak.

See the (crude, but its all I can do) drawing below for the trim as seen from the side. The laminate goes underneath, without quite touching the rabbet (its a floating floor, remember). I used brass screws at the entry and finishing nails at the bathroom to fasten them down. However, in the case of your wetbath I believe I'd just use silicone.

In your case, it would facilitate installation at the wet bath to cut off the bottom of the vertical trim pieces on either side of you doorway so you could slide your transition underneath. At your entry door you would need to cut some of the laminate away from the door to provide room for a decent size threashold. You would want the threashold to overlap your laminate on the left side as well as along the length.

Mark

Pahaska · 02-23-2005, 09:15 PM

I used the plastic "U" channel and trim that is found in the Pergo and similar flooring aisles at HD/Lowes/etc for making transitions to rugs and the like. The channel is held down with screws and the trim is pounded into it. I notched the trim to accommodate the profile of the door frame. The ends are cut at a 45-degree angle and touched up to match the finish.

The trim is a pressed wood product with a surface wood treatment. You can use a table saw or router to customize the profile of the trim somewhat; in my case, I was able to use it off the shelf..

**flyfshr** · 02-23-2005, 10:01 PM

Hey Tim -
In reviewing your photos, I think you could use a threshold from HD/Lowe's. The one I've illustrated has a dome to it but there are flat ones too. I just put some of these thresholds in my house. They are solid hardwood and very durable. As for the fabricated piece. It should be the same thickness of your flooring minus the thickness of the lip on the wet bath moulding. A little bit of adhesive applied to the fabricated piece adhering it to the threshold and a little on the threshold to hold it to the flooring and it should have enough room to "float."

FF

Safari Tim · 02-23-2005, 10:21 PM

Thanks everyone for the ideas. Keep them coming!

So far I like Mark's threshold idea the best. Seems that would be the cleanest look.

However, before I started this thread, I purchased a Tee molding like flyfshr is describing. Yes the arched one, I didn't know they made flat one. And they arn't cheap either.... .... and I already cut it for length

I'm going to experiment with that a little more. To make the bottom part of the tee fit I will have to cut away more of the shower flange with my dremal. Also it would not fully reach the the wall because the distance is greater than the molding, which is why I stopped for now. I could always add a quarter round on top of that... Or if I can get the distance small enough I can use the colored silcone to top it off. Only problem since I bought the arched molding water would be channeled back in the crevase.

For the front door I found pergos website shows an L shaped end peice that is used to face of against a sliding door or tile, so that may work.

**Chuck** · 02-24-2005, 11:23 AM

I was thinking the same thing as flyfshr, for the bathroom flanges....although, I'd have run the laminate a bit closer so that the stock "pergo" could me made to fit.

I used the "L" shaped piece that you mentioned in my installation, as well. ( I believe they call it a "vertical threshold"). It runs alongh the front gaucho, in front of the entry door, and along similar abs-bathroom flanges. my bath is different than yours...but same situation. flange around the black tank cover and shower pan were really meant to be concealed by carpet; no other good way to trim that edge, as it doesn't lie flat. I wound up hand-planing the vertical leg of the trim pieces to get them to sit flat on the floor, as well as the flange. (they're meant to bridge a gap that is the same size as the thickness of the laminate floor).

also...the piece in front of the entry door took a little "customizing", too, as that wall isn't straight. there is a slight curve to it, and the molding isn't quite flexible enough to conform..so I had to notch it in one spot. It ain't perfect...but you wouldn't notice it if you weren't looking for it.

balrgn · 02-24-2005, 02:26 PM

Here is what I used. Got it from Home Depot.

Safari Tim · 02-24-2005, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by balrgn

Here is what I used. Got it from Home Depot.

I'm on the edge of my seat... what is it! ;-)

I went to both Lowes and Home Depot today looking for the Pergo End Molding and neither had it....

It is on the pergos website though.

The difficult things become simple, and the simple things become difficult!

mcneon · 02-24-2005, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j54mark

it would facilitate installation at the wet bath to cut off the bottom of the vertical trim pieces on either side of you doorway so you could slide your transition underneath

If your trailer walls are built like the ones in my motorhome (and they appear to be), this is a strict no-no. The trim pieces provide almost all of the wall's rigidity and also anchor them to the floor via mating aluminum angles.

Bob

balrgn · 02-24-2005, 04:27 PM

Sorry, It didn't post.

Here it is!
It comes with several pieces to choose the right way to install. Made by Pergo

balrgn · 02-24-2005, 04:35 PM

Here is one more shot, I think it cost $14.95 for the kit.

Let me know if you need a pic of it installed, I'll be working on it tomorrow. Man, there forcasting more SNOW!

j54mark · 02-24-2005, 04:41 PM

Originally Posted by j54mark
"it would facilitate installation at the wet bath to cut off the bottom of the vertical trim pieces on either side of you doorway so you could slide your transition underneath"

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcneon

If your trailer walls are built like the ones in my motorhome (and they appear to be), this is a strict no-no. The trim pieces provide almost all of the wall's rigidity and also anchor them to the floor via mating aluminum angles.

Bob

Please understand that I have not seen the construction, so I could be all wet, but -

Those trim pieces are going to be bear to work around, whatever is installed. In addition, the small openings around the trim would be a water trap from the wet bath unless well sealed. I can see no structural reason not to shorten them - they would still provide stiffness to the doorway. If they need to be anchored could the angle bracket simply be used to anchor them to the new sill, trim, or whetever is used to provide the transition?

Mark