Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-23-2005, 08:12 PM   #1
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
Safari Tim's Avatar
 
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern , California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
Images: 35
Laminate Flooring Help!

I need some ideas for making a transition from the laminate floor to the web bath.

The wet bath shower pan flange extends into the living area. I stopped short of the flange with the flooring as seen in the pictures.

I hoped something at the home center would work but I cannot find anything.

I also need some ideas on the transition to the entrance door. I was hoping I could use quarter round but it extends to high at the door frame.

Thanks for any input.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT0001.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	39.3 KB
ID:	10567   Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT0002.jpg
Views:	102
Size:	36.4 KB
ID:	10568  

Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT0004.jpg
Views:	107
Size:	30.7 KB
ID:	10569  
__________________

__________________
-Tim
1960 International Ambassador 28'
2001 Silverado 2500HD CC 6.0L 4.10
Check out my book: Restoring a Dream
Check out my Airstream book for kids!: Airstream Adventures
theVAP - Airstream Podcast
Safari Tim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2005, 08:17 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
RichardT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 925
My Idea.

Cut a cardboard template to fit and transfer that to a piece of aluminum plate.
Any metal shop should be able to cut this for you if you do not have the tools to do it cleanly.

Drill countersunk holes and use a countersunk flathead screw

You could use flat aluminum or diamond plate, or you could use wood depending on the look you want.
__________________

__________________
RichardT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2005, 08:44 PM   #3
3 Rivet Member
 
hhuber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 206
Images: 8
I would just use some kind of clear caulk at the entrance door. It looks like the flooring comes pretty close. Ours is just caulked and it looks and works fine.
Heidi
__________________
Heidi
'67 Caravel/'03 Tahoe
New Orleans, LA
hhuber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2005, 08:45 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,482
Images: 19
I had forgotten about this problem, but I made trim for both the bath transition (laminate to vinyl) and for the entry. I made mine of oak.

See the (crude, but its all I can do) drawing below for the trim as seen from the side. The laminate goes underneath, without quite touching the rabbet (its a floating floor, remember). I used brass screws at the entry and finishing nails at the bathroom to fasten them down. However, in the case of your wetbath I believe I'd just use silicone.

In your case, it would facilitate installation at the wet bath to cut off the bottom of the vertical trim pieces on either side of you doorway so you could slide your transition underneath. At your entry door you would need to cut some of the laminate away from the door to provide room for a decent size threashold. You would want the threashold to overlap your laminate on the left side as well as along the length.

Mark
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	floortrim2.JPG
Views:	98
Size:	3.7 KB
ID:	10570  
__________________
'85 Sovereign, 25'
j54mark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2005, 10:15 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Pahaska's Avatar
 
2014 Interstate Ext. Coach
Hays County , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 5,822
Images: 3
Look in the Pergo aisle

I used the plastic "U" channel and trim that is found in the Pergo and similar flooring aisles at HD/Lowes/etc for making transitions to rugs and the like. The channel is held down with screws and the trim is pounded into it. I notched the trim to accommodate the profile of the door frame. The ends are cut at a 45-degree angle and touched up to match the finish.

The trim is a pressed wood product with a surface wood treatment. You can use a table saw or router to customize the profile of the trim somewhat; in my case, I was able to use it off the shelf..
__________________
John W. Irwin
2014.5 Touring Coach, "Sabre-Dog IV"
WBCCI #9632
Pahaska is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2005, 11:01 PM   #6
Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
 
flyfshr's Avatar

 
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,319
Images: 40
Hey Tim -
In reviewing your photos, I think you could use a threshold from HD/Lowe's. The one I've illustrated has a dome to it but there are flat ones too. I just put some of these thresholds in my house. They are solid hardwood and very durable. As for the fabricated piece. It should be the same thickness of your flooring minus the thickness of the lip on the wet bath moulding. A little bit of adhesive applied to the fabricated piece adhering it to the threshold and a little on the threshold to hold it to the flooring and it should have enough room to "float."

FF
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Moulding.jpg
Views:	93
Size:	26.3 KB
ID:	10571  
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1

I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
flyfshr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2005, 11:21 PM   #7
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
Safari Tim's Avatar
 
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern , California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
Images: 35
Thanks everyone for the ideas. Keep them coming!

So far I like Mark's threshold idea the best. Seems that would be the cleanest look.

However, before I started this thread, I purchased a Tee molding like flyfshr is describing. Yes the arched one, I didn't know they made flat one. And they arn't cheap either.... .... and I already cut it for length

I'm going to experiment with that a little more. To make the bottom part of the tee fit I will have to cut away more of the shower flange with my dremal. Also it would not fully reach the the wall because the distance is greater than the molding, which is why I stopped for now. I could always add a quarter round on top of that... Or if I can get the distance small enough I can use the colored silcone to top it off. Only problem since I bought the arched molding water would be channeled back in the crevase.

For the front door I found pergos website shows an L shaped end peice that is used to face of against a sliding door or tile, so that may work.
__________________
-Tim
1960 International Ambassador 28'
2001 Silverado 2500HD CC 6.0L 4.10
Check out my book: Restoring a Dream
Check out my Airstream book for kids!: Airstream Adventures
theVAP - Airstream Podcast
Safari Tim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 12:23 PM   #8
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,533
Images: 260
I was thinking the same thing as flyfshr, for the bathroom flanges....although, I'd have run the laminate a bit closer so that the stock "pergo" could me made to fit.

I used the "L" shaped piece that you mentioned in my installation, as well. ( I believe they call it a "vertical threshold"). It runs alongh the front gaucho, in front of the entry door, and along similar abs-bathroom flanges. my bath is different than yours...but same situation. flange around the black tank cover and shower pan were really meant to be concealed by carpet; no other good way to trim that edge, as it doesn't lie flat. I wound up hand-planing the vertical leg of the trim pieces to get them to sit flat on the floor, as well as the flange. (they're meant to bridge a gap that is the same size as the thickness of the laminate floor).

also...the piece in front of the entry door took a little "customizing", too, as that wall isn't straight. there is a slight curve to it, and the molding isn't quite flexible enough to conform..so I had to notch it in one spot. It ain't perfect...but you wouldn't notice it if you weren't looking for it.
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 03:26 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
balrgn's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
1954 26' Romany Cruiser
1960 26' Overlander
Rockingham County , New Hampshire
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,410
Images: 74
Send a message via AIM to balrgn Send a message via Yahoo to balrgn
Here is what I used. Got it from Home Depot.
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'54 Cruiser (Bogart)
'60 Overlander (Hoagy)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
www.balrgn.com
balrgn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 04:23 PM   #10
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
Safari Tim's Avatar
 
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern , California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
Images: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
Here is what I used. Got it from Home Depot.
I'm on the edge of my seat... what is it! ;-)


I went to both Lowes and Home Depot today looking for the Pergo End Molding and neither had it....

It is on the pergos website though.

The difficult things become simple, and the simple things become difficult!
__________________
-Tim
1960 International Ambassador 28'
2001 Silverado 2500HD CC 6.0L 4.10
Check out my book: Restoring a Dream
Check out my Airstream book for kids!: Airstream Adventures
theVAP - Airstream Podcast
Safari Tim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 05:14 PM   #11
3 Rivet Member
 
mcneon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 189
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by j54mark
it would facilitate installation at the wet bath to cut off the bottom of the vertical trim pieces on either side of you doorway so you could slide your transition underneath
If your trailer walls are built like the ones in my motorhome (and they appear to be), this is a strict no-no. The trim pieces provide almost all of the wall's rigidity and also anchor them to the floor via mating aluminum angles.

Bob
__________________
mcneon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 05:27 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
balrgn's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
1954 26' Romany Cruiser
1960 26' Overlander
Rockingham County , New Hampshire
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,410
Images: 74
Send a message via AIM to balrgn Send a message via Yahoo to balrgn
Sorry, It didn't post. Here it is!
It comes with several pieces to choose the right way to install. Made by Pergo
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Trim.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	45.0 KB
ID:	10578  
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'54 Cruiser (Bogart)
'60 Overlander (Hoagy)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
www.balrgn.com
balrgn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 05:35 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
balrgn's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
1954 26' Romany Cruiser
1960 26' Overlander
Rockingham County , New Hampshire
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,410
Images: 74
Send a message via AIM to balrgn Send a message via Yahoo to balrgn
Here is one more shot, I think it cost $14.95 for the kit.

Let me know if you need a pic of it installed, I'll be working on it tomorrow. Man, there forcasting more SNOW!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Trime Close.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	23.1 KB
ID:	10579  
__________________
'74 Overlander (T-O-Bee)
'46 Spartan Manor (Rosie)
'54 Cruiser (Bogart)
'60 Overlander (Hoagy)
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax
WBCCI 1754 - AIR # 6281
www.balrgn.com
balrgn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2005, 05:41 PM   #14
Rivet Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,482
Images: 19
Originally Posted by j54mark
"it would facilitate installation at the wet bath to cut off the bottom of the vertical trim pieces on either side of you doorway so you could slide your transition underneath"

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcneon
If your trailer walls are built like the ones in my motorhome (and they appear to be), this is a strict no-no. The trim pieces provide almost all of the wall's rigidity and also anchor them to the floor via mating aluminum angles.

Bob
Please understand that I have not seen the construction, so I could be all wet, but -

Those trim pieces are going to be bear to work around, whatever is installed. In addition, the small openings around the trim would be a water trap from the wet bath unless well sealed. I can see no structural reason not to shorten them - they would still provide stiffness to the doorway. If they need to be anchored could the angle bracket simply be used to anchor them to the new sill, trim, or whetever is used to provide the transition?

Mark
__________________

__________________
'85 Sovereign, 25'
j54mark is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Flooring ideas ALANSD Floor Finishes 47 02-25-2012 02:20 PM
year wood veneer changed to laminate? thx yukonsilver Interior Restoration Forum 4 04-18-2004 06:31 PM
Great Flooring Price melprice Floor Finishes 0 07-08-2002 09:48 PM
Replacing the flooring - 61 Bambi 61BambiCanada Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes 2 06-10-2002 08:59 AM
Removing old flooring and enhancing exisiting floor? Andy R Floor Finishes 4 05-18-2002 01:56 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.