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Old 02-24-2005, 06:57 PM   #15
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Finished my unit

I used latex caulking around all edges even at the entrance door "beige"
In the bathroom I used silicon caulking. Had to use two applications of the latex due to shrinkage. Personally I think it looks great and didn't have to worry about trim molding. Plus the floor can still move as the manufacture wants. From what I see of your photo a nice piece of oak or my preference cypress would look great. Most cabinet shops would only charge a few bucks to custom make it to your dimensions.
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Old 02-26-2005, 06:58 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by j54mark
I had forgotten about this problem, but I made trim for both the bath transition (laminate to vinyl) and for the entry. I made mine of oak. Mark

I was out at the trailer today, so I took this photo of the doorsill.

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Old 02-26-2005, 10:56 PM   #17
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Thanks to all...

I just completed the trim today. Turned out OK.

I used all the ideas from this thread!

For the front door I used balrgn's idea, and went with the Pergo trim kit. The kit includes several pieces that tied togther made an end trim. Or a pergo to hardwood transition. As j54mark said, I had to cut back the piece at the door to make the trim fit.

The bath entry was a little more difficult. I ended up getting a scrap peice of flooring and scibbed the shape onto the scrap board. I cut the shape out with my jig saw.

Next I had to cut the flooring that was alreday laid to accomidate a factory t-molding track, like flyfshr mentioned.

This was very difficult as I did not want to mar the existing floor, but I needed to cut back a little over 1/2"

So I ended up using my dremal with a saw blade bit and the cutting disks. That probably took me more than an hour to get that distance cut.

After that was done, I used the t-mold to tie it all together.

To help match up the height difference because of the shower pan, I removed the foam portion of the flooring.

Caulked it all up with pergo matching caulk and it's complete.

Thanks everyone for their ideas!

Here are the pictures.
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Old 02-27-2005, 05:39 AM   #18
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Great job there! I'm still working on some of the trim myself. I too used silicone. At the edges for the stove/sink cabinets and the refrigerator. Hang in there Spring is on the way!
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Old 03-03-2005, 05:18 AM   #19
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How did you fasten your 1/4 round molding to the floor/wall????
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:47 AM   #20
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How did you fasten your 1/4 round molding to the floor/wall????
Most people use finishing nails driven into the floor. I ran #4 brass screws countersunk into the trim and then into the aluminum to facilitate removal in case of repairs.

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Old 03-03-2005, 08:36 AM   #21
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Quote:
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How did you fasten your 1/4 round molding to the floor/wall????
I used my air nailer with 1 1/4" nails. I nailed into the wall since the floor is not tight against the wall. The nailer slightly countersinks the nail heads and I used a colored wood putty to conceal the heads.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:36 AM   #22
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I used 1/2" aluminum angle, but then again, that goes with my "theme" interior. I riveted them to the outside skin. Worked well.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:56 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
How did you fasten your 1/4 round molding to the floor/wall????
I borrowed a finish nail gun and nailed them in where I knew I had the wood available to nail to.

Other places I used Marks idea and used brass screws.

On the bulk head wall when there was going to be quarter round on both sides, I used screws and screwed through the molding on one side of the wall, through the wall and into the molding on the otherside.

To me you can have too much molding, expecially with all the small turns and such. I think it starts to look too busy. So I ended up using the colored caulking around the kitchen and bathroom areas to cut back on the molding a little.

I like the cleaner look of running the floor under all the cabinets, like they did on Vintage Thunder. But I thought you weren't supposed to do that. Guess the expansion expected in such a small place is insignificate enough to ignore.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:19 AM   #24
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Thanks. my floor is a bit different. The Gaucho is removed so I have a long section towards the front to put some molding on. It does not make the curve well. SO like you I will have to screw there. I think they still make "finish" screws, small heads. I'll have to visit Home Depot again!
I like your idea on the silicone, I used that in front to the stove and fridge as well as the door. I talked to someone today the put this stuff hard against the wall. not a good idea if you install in the winter. Bowed up in the summer when it expanded.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:23 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneakinup
I used 1/2" aluminum angle, but then again, that goes with my "theme" interior. I riveted them to the outside skin. Worked well.
Man does that look like a neat/clean job! Nice work!
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Old 03-05-2005, 12:56 PM   #26
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Finished entry way by laminate flooring

I put my bathroom vinyl flooring in the entrance way, and mitered aluminum to hold it down. Then found a cool floor mat that can be removed and placed outside, or left in place to slow down the flow of dirt in to the trailer.
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Old 03-05-2005, 05:31 PM   #27
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I put my bathroom vinyl flooring in the entrance way...
Now that is a great idea!

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