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BLL17 · 06-21-2016, 10:40 AM

Does anyone know if it is possible to use 15/16" as a replacement subfloor??

Nylaboard is closing their company. Their product was recommended as non toxic and long lasting, waterproof/mold proof.

The only thing that they have left is 15/16" ... my contractor is afraid it will change the seams too much. We are having to do a total renovation ... and about to remove the top from the pan via jack up and brace scenario.

Belegedhel · 06-21-2016, 06:00 PM

What year is your trailer?

BLL17 · 06-22-2016, 05:47 AM

the trailer is 1979 31' Excella.

the whole floor was damaged and the interior was infested ... so we are doing a body off renovation (and we got in way deeper than we understood we would be doing! ha)

Foiled Again · 06-22-2016, 06:23 AM

There is a marine product called Coosa Board - similar - never rot. NOT cheap. Depending on year and model most floors were 5/8 or 3/4 plywood (or Dog help us - OSB

If you choose a high quality plywood, get whatever fits in the C-channel, but get high quality stuff. Many recommend against marine plywood because it's got chemicals that could react badly with the aluminum C-channel. A lot of people use various water-proofing treatments - fiberglass resin thinned down is popular, as are various epoxy sealers. Use the Google option under the SEARCH function to look up what others have done. Sealing the edges is very important for those of us who live in wet or humid climates. Allowing for moisture that does get between the walls or in the belly pan to drain out is crucial too. HUMIDITY can do it just as well as outright leaks.

I don't believe I'd go with thicker stuff than was original, but some who have done so use a router to ease the top edge of the plywood down 1/16 of an inch or even 1/8th.

Do some research and thinking about it - you're going to have to live with the results for the next 50 years!

Good luck - good hunting.

Paula

Belegedhel · 06-22-2016, 08:53 AM

The original plywood in your trailer was probably 3/4 or 5/8, so the 15/16 is going to be dramatically thicker. This makes a differencein that the C-channels that connect the walls to the frame in the 70's era trailers actually wrap around the edge of the floor (at least along the sides), so if you choose a thicker material, you end up having to thin it around the edges. Second, you will have a large "hold down" plate in the front of the trailer that connects the front center panel of the shell to the frame directly. If you thicken up your floors, then the holes won't line up in this hold-down plate anymore. So unless you intend to move the plate, replace your front center panel, or thin the entire perimeter of your floor (1.5" wide), you need to think very carefully about how you will ensure that the holes line up again.

There are lots of threads discussing what is the Best replacement subfloor material. I used marine grade plywood, and if I had it to do over again, I would have just used some cabinet grade plywood from the big box store and save hundreds of dollars on it. You want some plywood with a nice smooth side because you have to have your subfloor as near as possible to perfectly flat and feature free before putting your new flooring on top, as you can see the imperfections through things like thin linoleum or even LVT.

I also painted my entire floor, top and bottom and especially the edges with three coats of polyurethane. I think this is more important than the grade of plywood. Again, marine grade is probably more important if I were actually building a boat and having the additional layers and guarantees of less voids would make a difference.

Most importantly of all, get your trailer sealed up so that it doesn't leak and rot your new floor, and then make sure to maintain it. That way you can make your new subfloor out of papier mache or pressed rice cakes, and it will last forever.

good luck!