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Old 07-29-2009, 02:09 PM   #1
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Got Rot! Now What?

Pulled the carpet from my 99 Safari 23. Found a 6" square soft spot next to door. I removed the loose stuff down to aluminum and need suggestions on how to patch. I was told Dunhams Rock Hard was a good choice. Suggestions?

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Old 07-29-2009, 03:09 PM   #2
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I've done such repairs on rotted plywood before with 4 hour epoxy glue, thinned a little with alcohol so it will penetrate the wood better.

If you use this method, make sure you use lots of it. You want a big puddle of it at the beginning so it will soak deep into the wood.
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Old 07-29-2009, 03:56 PM   #3
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I would cut away a square shaped piece from the damaged floor and scab in a new piece of the same size. Rot Doctor works great on soft floors but you've actually pulled away the bad wood. With the aluminum underneath this should be an easy fix.
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:43 AM   #4
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Thanks for the advice. If I replace with a wooden patch how should I attach? Glue, screws?
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasmorgan View Post
Pulled the carpet from my 99 Safari 23. Found a 6" square soft spot next to door. I removed the loose stuff down to aluminum and need suggestions on how to patch. I was told Dunhams Rock Hard was a good choice. Suggestions?

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This just seems unexceptable on such a new unit. I know why it happens just wish it didnt. Sounds like a good solution to patch in a new piece however since its in a traveled path you need to be sure its securely mounted and not able to flex. Movement from the rest of the flooring with shorten its effective life span.

Good luck

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Old 07-30-2009, 09:26 AM   #6
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Chasmorgan, A question...is the white in the center of the picture the aluminum belly pan below?
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:33 AM   #7
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Rot Doctor

Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike View Post
I would cut away a square shaped piece from the damaged floor and scab in a new piece of the same size. Rot Doctor works great on soft floors but you've actually pulled away the bad wood. With the aluminum underneath this should be an easy fix.
I have done this fix as Mello Mike described and recommend it. The only thing I would add is after cutting out the really punky wood add some support for the plywood patch with sections of plywood which will extend underneath the existing floor and patch 3-4". Screw these supports in through the original floor then put in the patch and screw that to the supports. Use the rock putty or equivalent ( I have used Bondo) to fill in any gaps. Rot Doctor also sells an epoxy wood filler, but it may not be necessary. Where the Rot Doctor comes in is to nuetralize beginning rot and strengthen the wood. Use it to soak in the surrounding area. There are other penetrating epoxy resins on the market under other names.
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:13 AM   #8
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Thanks for all the advice. The white you see in the picture is aluminum! It is not the belly pan. I was bit surprised when I chipped away the rotton wood and found it. I don't know at this point how far it extends towards the middle of the trailer.
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:26 AM   #9
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The white you see in the picture is aluminum! It is not the belly pan. I was bit surprised when I chipped away the rotton wood and found it.
OK, sorry, I didn't understand that it was all the way thru. You will have to replace the wood in that case...my epoxy method won't work.

The question now in my mind is how do you cut out the section to be replaced without cutting out the aluminum?
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:32 AM   #10
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I was planning to use my Dremel with a depth guard.
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:45 AM   #11
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Wonder if there's any way to cut it out with a bevel so you could make a plug that would drop into place? Then you could epoxy it in making it even stronger than the orginal.
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Old 07-30-2009, 03:37 PM   #12
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yeah, steveh has the idea i was thinking of...if you can bevel the sides of your new piece to match the bevel of your cut out piece then extra support is gained. How to cut and bevel you ask? Well, Norm of the New Yankee Workshop would use some tool that none of us has heard of, but I'd try to use my worm drive skil with the blade depth set to not quite get to the aluminum-any saw used should be set that way. a worm drive may be too big to get in there. If you are an expert sawzall guy you can use it to make your gross, first cuts and then bevel the edges with either a dremel (as suggested) or a router, or an air powered die grinder. Or, by hand (tough work). then, as a lasting repair, a thin layer of sheet metal extending beyond the patch will give additional support. maybe overkill, tho.
ol bill the newbie
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Old 07-30-2009, 04:48 PM   #13
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The new oscillating type saws ( multi master type) are fantastic for cutting out small rot patches. Good news is there are cheap models out there now. I bought mine from Harbour Freight for $39 bucks. The blades that come with it are not good, but HD or Lowes has Demel blades for the Dremel version of the tool that fit and last much longer. I am replacing the whole rear floor in a 68 Trade Wind and the tool has saved me countless hours.
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:37 PM   #14
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I've used "Rock Hard" for patching large holes in wood walls and it has performed great. Don't know how it will work on an RV which flexes, but I think I would try that before cutting out a larger piece of wood an risking a cut into the aluminum below. Besides this situation (with the aluminum under the floor) is quite different than a simple patch of wood that you would then secure with supports to the bottom of the plywood. Really -why not try the Rock Hard first?

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