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Chasmorgan · 07-29-2009, 01:09 PM

Pulled the carpet from my 99 Safari 23. Found a 6" square soft spot next to door. I removed the loose stuff down to aluminum and need suggestions on how to patch. I was told Dunhams Rock Hard was a good choice. Suggestions?

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SteveH · 07-29-2009, 02:09 PM

I've done such repairs on rotted plywood before with 4 hour epoxy glue, thinned a little with alcohol so it will penetrate the wood better.

If you use this method, make sure you use lots of it. You want a big puddle of it at the beginning so it will soak deep into the wood.

mello mike · 07-29-2009, 02:56 PM

I would cut away a square shaped piece from the damaged floor and scab in a new piece of the same size. Rot Doctor works great on soft floors but you've actually pulled away the bad wood. With the aluminum underneath this should be an easy fix.

Chasmorgan · 07-30-2009, 07:43 AM

Thanks for the advice. If I replace with a wooden patch how should I attach? Glue, screws?

Airslide · 07-30-2009, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chasmorgan

Pulled the carpet from my 99 Safari 23. Found a 6" square soft spot next to door. I removed the loose stuff down to aluminum and need suggestions on how to patch. I was told Dunhams Rock Hard was a good choice. Suggestions?

Attachment 84698

This just seems unexceptable on such a new unit. I know why it happens just wish it didnt. Sounds like a good solution to patch in a new piece however since its in a traveled path you need to be sure its securely mounted and not able to flex. Movement from the rest of the flooring with shorten its effective life span.

Good luck

Vinnie

SteveH · 07-30-2009, 08:26 AM

Chasmorgan, A question...is the white in the center of the picture the aluminum belly pan below?

Lumatic · 07-30-2009, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mello mike

I would cut away a square shaped piece from the damaged floor and scab in a new piece of the same size. Rot Doctor works great on soft floors but you've actually pulled away the bad wood. With the aluminum underneath this should be an easy fix.

I have done this fix as Mello Mike described and recommend it. The only thing I would add is after cutting out the really punky wood add some support for the plywood patch with sections of plywood which will extend underneath the existing floor and patch 3-4". Screw these supports in through the original floor then put in the patch and screw that to the supports. Use the rock putty or equivalent ( I have used Bondo) to fill in any gaps. Rot Doctor also sells an epoxy wood filler, but it may not be necessary. Where the Rot Doctor comes in is to nuetralize beginning rot and strengthen the wood. Use it to soak in the surrounding area. There are other penetrating epoxy resins on the market under other names.

Chasmorgan · 07-30-2009, 10:13 AM

Thanks for all the advice. The white you see in the picture is aluminum! It is not the belly pan. I was bit surprised when I chipped away the rotton wood and found it. I don't know at this point how far it extends towards the middle of the trailer.

SteveH · 07-30-2009, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chasmorgan

The white you see in the picture is aluminum! It is not the belly pan. I was bit surprised when I chipped away the rotton wood and found it.

OK, sorry, I didn't understand that it was all the way thru. You will have to replace the wood in that case...my epoxy method won't work.

The question now in my mind is how do you cut out the section to be replaced without cutting out the aluminum?

Chasmorgan · 07-30-2009, 10:32 AM

I was planning to use my Dremel with a depth guard.

SteveH · 07-30-2009, 10:45 AM

Wonder if there's any way to cut it out with a bevel so you could make a plug that would drop into place? Then you could epoxy it in making it even stronger than the orginal.

wmarsha · 07-30-2009, 02:37 PM

yeah, steveh has the idea i was thinking of...if you can bevel the sides of your new piece to match the bevel of your cut out piece then extra support is gained. How to cut and bevel you ask? Well, Norm of the New Yankee Workshop would use some tool that none of us has heard of, but I'd try to use my worm drive skil with the blade depth set to not quite get to the aluminum-any saw used should be set that way. a worm drive may be too big to get in there. If you are an expert sawzall guy you can use it to make your gross, first cuts and then bevel the edges with either a dremel (as suggested) or a router, or an air powered die grinder. Or, by hand (tough work). then, as a lasting repair, a thin layer of sheet metal extending beyond the patch will give additional support. maybe overkill, tho.
ol bill the newbie

68 TWind · 07-30-2009, 03:48 PM

The new oscillating type saws ( multi master type) are fantastic for cutting out small rot patches. Good news is there are cheap models out there now. I bought mine from Harbour Freight for $39 bucks. The blades that come with it are not good, but HD or Lowes has Demel blades for the Dremel version of the tool that fit and last much longer. I am replacing the whole rear floor in a 68 Trade Wind and the tool has saved me countless hours.

tallytwo1994 · 07-30-2009, 06:37 PM

I've used "Rock Hard" for patching large holes in wood walls and it has performed great. Don't know how it will work on an RV which flexes, but I think I would try that before cutting out a larger piece of wood an risking a cut into the aluminum below. Besides this situation (with the aluminum under the floor) is quite different than a simple patch of wood that you would then secure with supports to the bottom of the plywood. Really -why not try the Rock Hard first?

Carol

Airslide · 07-30-2009, 07:58 PM

Can you call the technical folks at Airstream and show them the picture. Maybe they have a solution that they have tried? It all started with them, maybe they can help steer us in the right direction.

Vinnie

Chasmorgan · 08-01-2009, 04:08 PM

Decided to go with the Rock Hard then read that it's not waterproof! Not sure if it that's a big deal but the damage was caused by water and maybe something like Bondo would be a better choice.

SteveH · 08-01-2009, 06:56 PM

If you use Bondo, they make a version called Kitty Hair, and it's a lot stronger because it has strands of fiberglass in it.

Cantrell · 08-01-2009, 07:41 PM

As a painting contractor I can tell you that Durhams Water Putty is not waterproof--it will deteriorate if it continues to get wet. It is also not a structural material--it is not strong enough to walk on. It is great at repairing rotted spots in trim and such around the house but I wouldn't use it on a floor unless there was decent supporting material beneath and only being used as a leveler.
Bondo is not designed for wood repair either. Bondo cures very hard and rigid (great with metal repair) but wood expands and contracts at a greater rate than metal and the bond between the wood and the Bondo will release at some point. A wet environment will make this happen faster.
My suggestion is to use the wood epoxy, and scab in new, properly attached and supported plywood.
Good luck,
Bill

Chasmorgan · 08-02-2009, 09:12 AM

What wood epoxy would you suggest? Thanks for your help!

Cantrell · 08-02-2009, 11:51 AM

Our Lowe's home center carries Loctite brand--cost is reasonable and it is fairly easy to use. Should work in your application. I think they also carry Simpsons (strong tie) which is good stuff as well. Read the directions well (some of these epoxies make enough heat during the reaction to burn you, for example).
Bill