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Old 08-16-2007, 10:40 PM   #1
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Question Floor sealer

Has anyone covered the bare plywood floor with polyurethane? My dad had the idea to seal it, with polyurethane before you put any new floor down. His thoughts were to seal it from water damage, old smell. Any thoughts on this? And if we decide to use bamboo flooring, do you put it down with the trailer gutted or with the cabinet and furnitue in? Pam
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Old 08-17-2007, 11:59 AM   #2
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We had to replace some bad wood in out Tradewind. All of the new wood was sealed with fiberglass resin on the edges some on the bottom side near the edge and on top where the walls sit on the plywood. We then applied two coats of epoxy on the entire floor, old and new wood (after all of the tiles and glue were removed). Currently just have grey shed floor paint on the floor until we can get the final flooring down. Six camping trips, about 25 hours of towing, no cracks or chips.

D
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:15 PM   #3
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dnrthell,
What kind of epoxy did you put down? what brand... where did you get it?
Since I'm right down the road from you I should be able to find it.
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:42 PM   #4
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Epoxy

If you want to seal plywood, or prevent the spread of dry rot, use a penetrating epoxy such as S-1 by Industrial Formulators. This is a watery epoxy that seeps into the wood cells, protecting from future water damage. It also has a long pot life of 48 hours.

It's recommended that you put on 3 coats for full coverage.

Git Rot is also another brand of penetrating epoxies that we have used.

BTW, when using resins, epoxies can be used over poly resins, i.e. fiberglass BUT poly resins can't be used over epoxy.

When using this stuff, be sure that you have plenty of ventalation!
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:55 PM   #5
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Thanks!
Any online retailers for S-1?
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:42 PM   #6
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Blondie,
As far as coating the whole floor......Don't know if it will hurt, but if the floor is good after 32 years why fix a problem that isn't there? It might even tend to trap moisture rather than keep it out.

As far as the penetrating epoxies. They are different. They are used for areas of rot, not a whole floor, and penetrate through the whole panel not just the surface as polyurethane does.
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uberphotos
dnrthell,
What kind of epoxy did you put down? what brand... where did you get it?
Since I'm right down the road from you I should be able to find it.

I'll look tonight when I get home and post the info later.

Later _ D
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:52 PM   #8
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This is what I plan to use...

LiquidWood® - Abatron, Inc. Online Shopping

It was used on a historic building restoration I managed a few years back with excellent results.
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:36 PM   #9
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wader,
After reading about the LiquidWood and WoodEpox, I wonder if you use the the first product as a primer and then build up any lost wood areas with the second product?
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:44 PM   #10
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Found the info:

US Composites (uscomposites.com)
635 Thin Epoxy Resin
3:1 pump
Medium 20-25 minute pot life

Also bought Aerasil-Cabosil to make the material thicker

Spread the mix with a foam roller and regular paint brushes.

Put two coats of epoxy on the floor, after all old tiles were removed, and then painted the floor with grey floor paint.

Also used fiberglass resin on the edges of all the new wood that went under the side walls. Epoxy resin did not arrive at the house when I was ready to put the new floor wood in.

Hope this helps - Derek
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Old 10-08-2007, 10:38 PM   #11
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I used vinyl-ester resin on new plywood installed and gave 3 coats of brown porch paint on all the original floor surfaces once carpets came up - I thinned the first coats of VE resin AND the oil based porch paint with MEK to get maximum penetration.

I used these folks #700 resin; $40 a gallon before shipping, $55 a gallon for house-brand epoxies. The 700 VE resin is harder than epoxies but that also makes it brittle, mishandle or gouge at it directly will leave a cracked light-colored divet. Plywood endgrain ended up glossy and smooth; but standing water for a few days does leave some opaque surface staining. Don't confuse VE with standard polyester resins...

Polyester Resins
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Old 10-09-2007, 09:01 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidz71
wader,
After reading about the LiquidWood and WoodEpox, I wonder if you use the the first product as a primer and then build up any lost wood areas with the second product?
David,

Yes, that is what you can do. It worked great for restoring decorative structural members on the project I worked on.

The LiquidWood is great by itself to fortify new installations such as an Airstream floor that may (will) be subject to moisture/vermin.
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Old 10-09-2007, 08:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wader
David,

Yes, that is what you can do. It worked great for restoring decorative structural members on the project I worked on.

The LiquidWood is great by itself to fortify new installations such as an Airstream floor that may (will) be subject to moisture/vermin.
The floor in my '86 25' is made of particle board. Part of it near the end has become wet over the years and has flaked in some places. I have taken care of any leaks that may have caused this but want to protect it in the future as well as build back some of the thickness to preserve strength.
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