Floor plywood question - need input please

[SilverHoot]

Originally Posted by Melody Ranch

Really Guys....I mean no offense here...but, I think your getting a bit anal on this floor prep. From what I understand this is just an installation of a floating floor over the original. The only place a leak will be a problem will be from the side walls and maybe down a wall from an upper leak. Water proofing the side walls can't be done from the inside. Its either done at the time of floor replacement or seam sealing outside. Wall leaking from windows or seams is corrected by window seals and seam sealing. As far as I'm concerned all this other epoxy, linseed oil, Thompsons, etc., etc., is like a fart in the wind. A good quality porch paint will preserve and prep the floor surface for a floating floor application. If the original floor is rough and worrysome to you...an inexpensive overlay of Luan is easy to install for that smooth base under a linoleum floor...
and even that is not necessary under the more rigid "click" flooring like Pergo.
I did try something ...strictly an experiment...on both a Pergo and an Armstrong floating plank floor. I filled the perimeter expansion space with a clear silicone bead, hidden under the base board, thinking it would still provide expansion capability and seal the floor edge surface from spilled liquids.

I agree,

After all, there were no sealants on our original floors. I just sealed the edges and about 4-5" in from edge on all my flooring and sealed the entire piece of flooring under the bathroom area. The bottom side of the flooring I used some exterior deck/fence type water repellent stain that I had left over, plus a small amount of stain purchased at a paint store for $1.50 that was a goof.

[JFerguson]

Originally Posted by SilverHoot

I agree,

After all, there were no sealants on our original floors. I just sealed the edges and about 4-5" in from edge on all my flooring and sealed the entire piece of flooring under the bathroom area. The bottom side of the flooring I used some exterior deck/fence type water repellent stain that I had left over, plus a small amount of stain purchased at a paint store for $1.50 that was a goof.

This is why I choose to be anal on this particular topic:

Stock Airstream +46 years =

[Melody Ranch]

As you can see...the damage to the floor always starts at the wall...ie., edge of the plywood floor. If that edge area is not sealed that is where the damage encroaches from. If you have water damage to the center of the floor area....you have another problem. So, seal the edges of your plywood sheets. Go for sealing the entire floor, but I think its a waste of time and money to go off the deep end.
My floor here is 53 years old.

[barts]

The reason we sealed the entire floor is that we're planning on using rugs rather than recarpeting or using Pergo, etc. I really like being able to remove the rugs and get things clean (and track down any leaks). Of course, I don't want bare plywood showing anywhere, so.... not quite an aluminum tent, but perhaps a cabin.

- Bart

[SilverHoot]

Originally Posted by JFerguson

This is why I choose to be anal on this particular topic:

Stock Airstream +46 years =

Hey it's all good!
Time, skill and $$$ is all it takes. We all have different amounts of each and make our decisions accordingly.

[hampstead38]

C'mon... we're all a little prone to over-engineering here.

My frame (which still had original paint on it) has two coats of POR-15 on it now. The floor (which was 90 percent decent) is 100 percent replaced.

Nothing could be as bad as the original carpeting. That stuff really held the moisture. The classic rot pattern I saw was rear bath, door and fridge vent. The coach sat outside and unused for years. I figure I would have to really neglect the old girl over the next 30 years to match the rot I saw.

Here's my thought. The interior is pretty much empty. If there's a time to seal the plywood subfloor, it is now. Epoxy, sealer, paint... anything is an improvement over raw wood.

[JFerguson]

Originally Posted by hampstead38

C'mon... we're all a little prone to over-engineering here.

My frame (which still had original paint on it) has two coats of POR-15 on it now. The floor (which was 90 percent decent) is 100 percent replaced.

Nothing could be as bad as the original carpeting. That stuff really held the moisture. The classic rot pattern I saw was rear bath, door and fridge vent. The coach sat outside and unused for years. I figure I would have to really neglect the old girl over the next 30 years to match the rot I saw.

Here's my thought. The interior is pretty much empty. If there's a time to seal the plywood subfloor, it is now. Epoxy, sealer, paint... anything is an improvement over raw wood.

I think your approach is the best. Anything is better than nothing and the time to do it is now!

[wa3pjl]

Originally Posted by tallytwo1994

If you decide to use a leveling product be sure to chose one that is flexable enough for the movement of a TT. These are cement based, and most will crack under movement. Call the munufacturer and ask about this specific application.

Carol

At Lowes, Dap sells a flexible floor leveler product the does not fully harden. They also sell a Dap product that does harden. Both in the same style gallon can so be careful. I have used the flexible product and indeed it does remain flexible and can also be feathered out to a nice edge.

Larry

[Aage]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Thompson's Water Seal would probably be a good choice. It is supposed to last many years outdoors in the weather,

Thompson's is only good for a year, don't let anyone fool you about that Terry.

When you have stayed somewhere for a few years, you'll see that.

[MikeAir]

Any suggestions on using bleach on the plywood, not because of the stained color but to reduce years of smell, before applying sealant/floorpaint/epoxy or whatever. In other threads I've read that people do this. If so, what concentration of bleach to water? Also is it a good idea to put a layer of foam underlayment over the plywood and under the click-Pergo type flooring?

[barts]

Originally Posted by MikeAir

Any suggestions on using bleach on the plywood, not because of the stained color but to reduce years of smell, before applying sealant/floorpaint/epoxy or whatever. In other threads I've read that people do this. If so, what concentration of bleach to water? Also is it a good idea to put a layer of foam underlayment over the plywood and under the click-Pergo type flooring?

We sanded the plywood and applied epoxy thinned w/ xylene, then wet sanded that and filled any divots, wetsanded that and then applied unthinned epoxy.

Any remaining smells are due to areas we've not disassembled as yet.

- Bart

[hampstead38]

When I pulled the old plywood out of the Overlander, I noticed some areas of rot but nothing that smelled particularly bad. Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is essentially a disinfectant. I'm not sure how much you really gain by bleaching the plywood in the long run... unless you plan to use the floor as an operating table. I'm guessing any smells in the coach are more related to things other than the subfloor.

As for Pergo, I've installed in a residential application, but we decided against a floating floor in the Overlander. Pergo (and the ilk) offer a range of underlayments. If you're going with a floating floor, I don't think underlayment would hurt anything... except to shave a bit of headroom.

[VIKING]

2 cents worth on underlayment for floating floors: the foam stuff most places want to supply you with will sometimes cause a clicking sound in the floor when you walk across it. There's a felt-type of material that I've seen used in homes, and it prevents any clicking and gives you a nice, quiet floor.

Rich the Viking