'Floating' sheet vinyl?

[adwriter73]

I am wondering if I install sheet vinyl, could I not glue it down but rather just tack it on the edges and then walls, cabinets and furniture will hold it down...good? bad? Someone stated that the vinyl floors in the newer Airstreams were not adhered with glue but just "stapled" along the perimeter.

[Aage]

I don't see why it wouldn't work, there is quite a bit of flex in good-quality roll product. The owner of the store where we often buy flooring claims that the fibreglas-back stuff is much more stable for "outdoor" use.

But I have never done it in a vehicle that would undergo the temperature extremes that it would in our climate...

[68 TWind]

Thats' how I installed the solid sheet vinyl in my Trade Wind. The decision was based on the recommendation of a friend who installed solid sheet vinyl in his Overlander 5 years ago by only gluing around the perimeter. He has had no problems in many thousand miles.

[adwriter73]

Originally Posted by 68 TWind

Thats' how I installed the solid sheet vinyl in my Trade Wind. The decision was based on the recommendation of a friend who installed solid sheet vinyl in his Overlander 5 years ago by only gluing around the perimeter. He has had no problems in many thousand miles.

so no bunching up or kinks? it lays flat? did you put down a vapor barrier?

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by adwriter73

I am wondering if I install sheet vinyl, could I not glue it down but rather just tack it on the edges and then walls, cabinets and furniture will hold it down...good? bad? Someone stated that the vinyl floors in the newer Airstreams were not adhered with glue but just "stapled" along the perimeter.

There's a no-glue vinyl on the market. Just lay it down and stick the perimeter down with double sticky tape. Some people do glue down doorways.

Gary

[2airishuman]

the vinyl flooring installed on NEW streams (for many years now)...

is only attached at the perimeter with staples, and around CUTOUTs...

like the toilet hole, vents, wheel wells, wiring tunnels and so on...

no vapor barrier is used.

they are also using bubble foil insulation UNDER the subfloor instead of fiberglass batting.

the problem is NOW we are seeing a lot of trailers with water damage UNDER this vinyl...

at least with the crappy old carpet some of the water could evaporate.

what we need is a semi or one way permeable membrane flooring that breaths...

or lots o'little holes in the vinyl and wood...

cheers
2air'

[adwriter73]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

the vinyl flooring installed on NEW streams (for many years now)...

is only attached at the perimeter with staples, and around CUTOUTs...

like the toilet hole, vents, wheel wells, wiring tunnels and so on...

no vapor barrier is used.

they are also using bubble foil insulation UNDER the subfloor instead of fiberglass batting.

the problem is NOW we are seeing a lot of trailers with water damage UNDER this vinyl...

at least with the crappy old carpet some of the water could evaporate.

what we need is a semi or one way permeable membrane flooring that breaths...

or lots o'little holes in the vinyl and wood...

cheers
2air'

I wonder what the reason is for installing it this way if there is such a huge risk of water getting trapped underneath. I just don't want to deal with glue and like the idea that I could "easily" pull it up if needed.

[2airishuman]

clearly the ISSUES were not made clear enough.

floating sheet flooring is QUICKER to install

and reduces the chance of SPITS or cracks when the subfloor moves.

which can happen when GLUED DOWN.

it's also easier to change out...

and MIX in sections with carpet as done on many models.
_________

glued or not, water UNDER a solid surface flooring is trapped.

regardless of how it enters...

at the edges or from the underside or simply condensation on the wood...


there is basically no way for US the owners to monitor for wetness.
_________

since YOU are about to install new flooring, the opportunity exists to CONSIDER HOW 2do this.

cheers
2air'

[cameront120]

Glue the full perimeter and no vapor can escape. Period. Let the floor float. Tack down a few points if needed and you've at least got the perimeters 'open' to allow for some condensate to escape. A product like Marmoleum, which is a natural linoleum, might have a vapor permeance that would allow some moisture to escape better than a vinyl sheet flooring. An adhesive tile, rather than rolled good, would be vapor permeable by virtue of all the seams around each tile. If the insulation under your trailer is fibrous, like fibreglass batt or mineral slag, then this is pretty much a non-issue, as the moisture will have a place to go. The problem then becomes does the insulation and wood floor have the opportunity to fully dry after becoming damp or wet. This will depend greatly on the climate in which you live and travel. I would think that the best prevention is to keep the area between the floor and belly pan from getting wet in the first place. Not always an easy task. All of these are the same issues we face when constructing buildings.

[Randjg1]

the flooring in my 08 buckles every spring after the shrink and swell for the winter to summer months. The dealer messed with it a couple times. nothing works. This summer i unscrewed the edging and pulled the flooring to the edge and tacked it down with stapes and reapplied the edging to tuck it under. Its not perfect as so staples show and you never get it to lay perfectly everywhere. Ive come to accept it. In summer when it gets used, it lays down mostly. I wish it could be perfect all the time but its not worth losing sleep over anymore. Im nervous about water damage too and keep a vigiliant look out for spills etc. Our toilet sprayer for instance when used would drip occassionally. Or a leaky skylight. Or shower spills. I wipe em up quick. Lately i worry about the puddle that forms on the seam behind the faucet in the bathroom after my kids use it for a while. Drippy hands and such. I try to keep a rag handi and dab it up so it doesnt seep down behind to the floor ultimately. The caulk seam there is small and seems to crack open with trailer movement and use i guess.
Long winded to suggest you do the same as the factory try and have a float with as few cuts or seams that can allow moisture to get in under it. Just my nonprofessional flooring 2 cents.

[Dave Park]

You should roll out the vinyl and let it rest in the RV, flat, for a couple of days before attaching the edge. This will give it time to relax, lay down flat, and match temperature and moisture content with the rest of your A/S.

[adwriter73]

I decided to go with it. Put down new sheet vinyl I bought off the rack at the local Home Depot. Was a difficult job to do all by myself, but I like the result. Going to let it lay loose for a couple of days, then i will tape and staple the perimeter.

[Randjg1]

WOW, nice job! looks fantastic!

[cameront120]

Is that the TrafficMaster strip flooring? If so, be sure to roll the seams. They have a habit of separating otherwise.

[adwriter73]

Originally Posted by cameront120

Is that the TrafficMaster strip flooring? If so, be sure to roll the seams. They have a habit of separating otherwise.

Nope. It's Armstrong sheet vinyl. One giant 7.5 ft X 27 ft. piece.

[cameront120]

Originally Posted by adwriter73

Nope. It's Armstrong sheet vinyl. One giant 7.5 ft X 27 ft. piece.

That's great, because I've had nothing but horrible luck with the trafficmaster. The Armstrong is a good product and should give you years of service. I doubt you'll have to do much more than staple it down in a few places. Once you have all the cabinetry and furniture back in place, it won't be going anywhere.