Click and Lock Floating Floors
Most floor coverings are installed starting in the center of the area and working forward/backward and side-to-side. With the click and lock floating floor, however, it is recommended that you start at one side, not the center, and install all the way along the length of that side. Then move toward the other wall. The reason for this is that you want to mate the clicking edges from above and then fold the new length down. The same is true for the ends...the new piece is held up at a 45 degree angle and folded down until it clicks and locks in place. If you start in the center of the area you will have to raise the installed edge to get the mate to fit under it which is very difficult to do especially on a long run.
The mating ends can lead to a lot of waste. I found that you can recreate the click and lock with two passes on a table saw. The inside cut is slightly deeper than the outside or end cut. A little practice and it works. I was able to do my floor (see picture on prior post) with very little waste.
Be sure to leave 1/4 inch on all outer sides for expansion/contraction. Cover these gaps with oak quarter round or a scotia cove molding. Cabinets with a round profile require careful scribing of the cabinet curve on the floor boards.
The only furniture I had to remove was the aluminum frame for one seat. I carefully marked the screw holes and used new screws that were 3/8" longer than the original to secure the frame tightly. I did need to fabricate new brackets to hold the (new) dining table to the trailer's aft wall.
Dick and Claire Wiklund
North Falmouth, Massachusetts
"Judgement is based on experience and experience is based on poor judgement"