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Old 06-05-2010, 06:33 PM   #15
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1960 24' Tradewind
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Here's 2 shots of the cork floor in my '60......Dare to be different!
Greg
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Old 06-06-2010, 01:17 AM   #16
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WOW!!! Nice job. That is so great.
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:46 AM   #17
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Great job on the floors guys, that is my next project!
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:16 AM   #18
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Ophir, where did you buy your tiles and what worked best for cutting them?
TAC: CA-3
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:25 AM   #19
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Love that Cork! Cork Flooring - 1956 Vintage Airstream
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Old 06-07-2010, 12:17 AM   #20
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Ophir, where did you buy your tiles and what worked best for cutting them?
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I them from the Green Building Center in SLC (Eco Friendly Building Materials and Flooring - The Green Building Center)

I got the tiles so I could glue and went with the "Natural Bamboo" from Vida. You can cut them with a razor but looking back I would have loved to have had a razor that I could use in a jig or a device that would hold the tile and cut square, like those things that you use for cutting matting for framing photos. We just used razors and squares. It's pretty easy, just really laborious.
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:51 PM   #21
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As promised...

I have taken photos of the finish up process....so far. I did not photo record the start of the cork plank floor installation in our '66 Trade Wind, 24'. The PO had installed the sticky back floor tiles and they were getting unsightly with the tiles shifting a little when warm and the glue creeping along the seams and attracting dirt. Fortunately the PO had removed the old original asbestos 'laced' tiles up to the cabinets. I began removing the sticky tiles with myself sticking to the residue left on the flooring. I researched online on how to remove the glue and became discouraged to the tedious job it would be. I then decided to leave the tiles but better judgement took over and removed these sticky tiles. The floor was so sticky it began removing my shoes as I stepped around. One of the reasons we opted for the 'floating' floor was to allow for expansion and flexing but laying the cork on this glue would not only defeat this but would have been a hullava job. I bought plastic moisture barrier material and laid that down first. That's the blue plastic in the photos. PERFECT solution!
The photo are some what self explanitory. However the do have to be installed left to right, back to front. So I had to start in the rear bath and lay one row then the next, etc. It takes time to cut around cabinets and so. The instuction say to leave a gap of up to 1/4" inch at cabinettes and such for expansion then instal a molding anchored to walls and cabinets leaving the flooring to 'move' under it. A contractor who has laid such flooring says he didn't think the 200 sq feet that I was cinstalling didn't require that much tolerance, so I haven't paid 'that' much to leaving that tolerances.
Neil.
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:52 PM   #22
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More to come

Yeah, it's lunch time. I'll have more piccys of this install soon.
Neil
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:55 PM   #23
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'66 Trade Wind cork floor install continues

As mentioned I had not planned a photo documentary of this installation but several of you said that you would like my imput. The only install that I had left to do was at the entry. So these first few photos show the way this floor 'clips' together. Other than cutting around 'obstacles' it goes fairly easy. However, if you discover a boo boo a little back in your installation you have to undo your planks installed back to that repair.

The last 2 photos in this post show 1) the way I'm thinking of bordering the edges where I need to cover the gaps at the perimeter. I only placed the molding that you see as an example. What I will use is trim that I will shape myself and stain to match the wall molding and 'pocket' boxes above our beds...last photo.

A couple of more piccys to follow.
Neil
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Old 06-07-2010, 03:05 PM   #24
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Well, I have only one piccy left and that comes with a request for guidance here. A molding over where the floor meets the tub has me be-fuddled. I can't use a wood curved one. One suggestion is a plyable caulking to fill this gap. But such caulk attracts and holds dirt. A thin bead of black caulk 'may' work. Waddyou think? I have a similar problem along the storage doors beneath the beds. The doors are hinged at the floor and negates the placement of a molding there. Any ideas.
Neil.
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Old 06-07-2010, 03:23 PM   #25
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Well, I have only one piccy left and that comes with a request for guidance here. A molding over where the floor meets the tub has me be-fuddled. I can't use a wood curved one. One suggestion is a plyable caulking to fill this gap. But such caulk attracts and holds dirt. A thin bead of black caulk 'may' work. Waddyou think? I have a similar problem along the storage doors beneath the beds. The doors are hinged at the floor and negates the placement of a molding there. Any ideas.
Neil.
My idea would be to purchase some corner round from lowes and nail it in place. You can get some that is made of plastic covered vinyl and use a saw to make relief cuts in the back so that it will bend around the tub.

As for the other situation I am not sure it will work but you could try a flooring transition. these are typically very thin and would cover the gap well.
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Old 06-07-2010, 03:48 PM   #26
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My idea would be to purchase some corner round from lowes and nail it in place. You can get some that is made of plastic covered vinyl and use a saw to make relief cuts in the back so that it will bend around the tub.

As for the other situation I am not sure it will work but you could try a flooring transition. these are typically very thin and would cover the gap well.
Thanks, I know what you are talking about. Any trim around the tub would have to be afixed to the tub not the floor. I could probably screw or rivet the trim to the 'plastic' tub. I am going to Home Depot tomorrow and will check it out.
Neil.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:06 AM   #27
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There are trims available that are very flexible. I have seen some in a house that ha about a four foot diameter circle in the ceiling that was completely trimmed out in the stuff. We're talking some 6" crown moulding formed into a circle. It is like a flexible foam type plastic with a finished surface. I haven't seen any of it in the big home centers, but Google resulted in good results.

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Old 06-08-2010, 05:27 PM   #28
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There are trims available that are very flexible. I have seen some in a house that ha about a four foot diameter circle in the ceiling that was completely trimmed out in the stuff. We're talking some 6" crown moulding formed into a circle. It is like a flexible foam type plastic with a finished surface. I haven't seen any of it in the big home centers, but Google resulted in good results.

Stephen
Just returned from Home Depot. Yur right, they aren't that specialized. We just had all the windows in our home replaced. They used plastic trim for the finish. Looks good. I wished I had paid better attention during the installation and asked some questions. Next trip down the hill to Sacramento I will check with finish carpentry suppliers. Thanks for the tip.
Neil.
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