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Old 08-01-2012, 11:31 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddruker View Post
I just installed tile in my bathroom.

Here is what I did:

First I stripped the existing floor down to plywood, removed a bunch of staples and generally prepped to floor to make it as even and level as possible.

Next I glued shower pan lining (thick vinyl) to the subfloor with construction adhesive to ensure I would be completely waterproof and would have a perfectly level base to work with.

I installed a stainless steel edging strip along the edge of the hardwood to keep the tile and the wood apart from each other and keep the edges clean.

Then I used flexible mastic to adhere the tile to the shower pan lining. This type of adhesive is lightweight and it's not supposed to crack. The tiles do appear to be stuck down really well. I used a v notch trowel to prep the adhesive.

Then after 24 hours of dry time, I used two part epoxy grout to grout the tiles - again this is very lightweight compared to normal cement based grout and it's waterproof. It was fairly nasty to clean the excess grout of the tiles - this stuff isn't water based so it makes a bit of a sticky mess.

We'll see how this holds up to flexing, but this isn't very heavy and I think it looks pretty good. I was a little concerned the tiles would be slippery, but I tested them out and had plenty of grip with bare feet.

I did a bunch of research on the tile forums and in google search about how to tile an RV before deciding to try out this method. The next level up from this is to use silicon adhesive and caulk which is pretty much guaranteed not to crack and is also lightweight - but it is much more of a pain to install.

Last step for tomorrow is to install baseboards. I'll be using 2 inch bullnose tiles for that.

I'll report back after a couple of trips as to how the floor is holding up.
Looks slick! Anxious to hear the results. I've always been intrigued by this concept, especially for our next, larger trailer....
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:43 PM   #16
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Have been on two trips now - including last week to Yosemite and back, which was pretty bouncy and certainly twisty - including driving on some dirt roads - and no cracking.
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:24 PM   #17
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1993 30' Excella
Salida , Colorado
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Ceramic tile on floor

Quote:
Dal Tile has a very tough,flexable tile underlayment. it has a waffle texture, you apply thinsit to the floor,bed the underlayment in the thinset. Let dry ,apply thinset to the underlayment and lay the tile. In a stationary moble home it works very well, no cracking of grout joints 3 years later. It might work,it is about $2.00 a square foot. Adios, John
I am a General Contractor and install tile all the time. The product you are referring to is called DITRA. It is a thin plastic membrane that acts to 'decouple' the underlayment (DITRA) from the tile. This works well to minimize flexing, cracking, and loose grout. The manufacturer provides a detail booklet that tells how to install under varying conditions - follow this and you will be much happier with your results. Use a modified thin set mortar or add an additive that provides greater adhesion and flexibility under these conditions and you should be fine.

NB
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Old 08-20-2014, 08:26 PM   #18
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Livingston , Texas
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How is your ceramic tile bathroom holding up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ddruker View Post
I just installed tile in my bathroom.

Here is what I did:

First I stripped the existing floor down to plywood, removed a bunch of staples and generally prepped to floor to make it as even and level as possible.

Next I glued shower pan lining (thick vinyl) to the subfloor with construction adhesive to ensure I would be completely waterproof and would have a perfectly level base to work with.

I installed a stainless steel edging strip along the edge of the hardwood to keep the tile and the wood apart from each other and keep the edges clean.

Then I used flexible mastic to adhere the tile to the shower pan lining. This type of adhesive is lightweight and it's not supposed to crack. The tiles do appear to be stuck down really well. I used a v notch trowel to prep the adhesive.

Then after 24 hours of dry time, I used two part epoxy grout to grout the tiles - again this is very lightweight compared to normal cement based grout and it's waterproof. It was fairly nasty to clean the excess grout of the tiles - this stuff isn't water based so it makes a bit of a sticky mess.

We'll see how this holds up to flexing, but this isn't very heavy and I think it looks pretty good. I was a little concerned the tiles would be slippery, but I tested them out and had plenty of grip with bare feet.

I did a bunch of research on the tile forums and in google search about how to tile an RV before deciding to try out this method. The next level up from this is to use silicon adhesive and caulk which is pretty much guaranteed not to crack and is also lightweight - but it is much more of a pain to install.

Last step for tomorrow is to install baseboards. I'll be using 2 inch bullnose tiles for that.

I'll report back after a couple of trips as to how the floor is holding up.
Hi, Can you tell me: after several years of use now, how is the floor that you installed in 2012 holding up? I am thinking about doing the same tile pattern (obtained from home depot) in my bathroom. Any suggestions?
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