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Old 07-03-2004, 10:06 PM   #1
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Carpet Removal for Pergo

Well, another fine mess I've gotten myself into! Ripped out most of the carpet this evening, now working on the area around the cabinets and dinette. To clean up the edges.

A few observations. The 22' International has a large number of curves to deal with along with several changes in material acting as base board. There are too many overhangs to allow easy removal of anything. Let alone three year old carpet that has found a cumfy place to lay. And foremost, If everyone with carpet looked underneath the carpet and pad, I believe everyone would replace it. Even if it is as big a pain as it appears it will be!

Oh yeah, those curves mean a much more difficult time getting quarter round to traverse the arc in those 90 degree bends around the fridge etc. I found some rubbery type quater round at a local shop that specializes in "bent wood" products. Expensive, yes, but it appears it will match the pergo trim we selected to go along with the maple look laminate.

Corky
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Old 07-04-2004, 03:38 AM   #2
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I don't know the name of the material, but on "This Old House" I saw them using a plastic looking material that they said came in the same sizes as wood for the exterior of houses on the eve facing. It was very flexable. You might try looking over some sites like his to find a less costly material.
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Old 07-04-2004, 08:47 AM   #3
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Put the trim in a metal pipe.
Add steam from a wallpaper steamer.
When wood is hot and wet, it will bend.
This is standard practice in architectural woodworking.
Dick
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:54 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cstar
Oh yeah, those curves mean a much more difficult time getting quarter round to traverse the arc in those 90 degree bends around the fridge etc. I found some rubbery type quater round at a local shop that specializes in "bent wood" products. Expensive, yes, but it appears it will match the pergo trim we selected to go along with the maple look laminate.
Corky
Corky,
When we put Pergo flooring in our trailer, well not really Pergo a different brand but the same type product, we discovered they also offer a kind of floor caulk that comes in colors that match the flooring & while not entirely invisible certainly less obnoxious than looking at gaps. You've probably seen it, but if you haven't it sure is a nice way to deal with any nasty gaps that might raise their ugly heads when one is trying to traverse corners. I know the whole point if for that NOT to happen but should it ....
Janet
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:01 AM   #5
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I didn't mean...

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiyosilver
Corky,
When we put Pergo flooring in our trailer, well not really Pergo a different brand but the same type product, we discovered they also offer a kind of floor caulk that comes in colors that match the flooring & while not entirely invisible certainly less obnoxious than looking at gaps. You've probably seen it, but if you haven't it sure is a nice way to deal with any nasty gaps that might raise their ugly heads when one is trying to traverse corners. I know the whole point if for that NOT to happen but should it ....
Janet
Ok, in re-reading that it sounds like we just blobbed a bunch of caulk type stuff up & smoothed it over with a putty knife or something...what I meant was once you find a suitable trim the caulk is then an option for a final step to blend everything. We ended up using a rubbery kind of trim we found in the flooring section of Lowes that matched our laminate as well & in places just used a solid wood trim cut to fit with any gaps filled in with the caulk stuff.
OK, I'm done now, I think.....
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Old 07-04-2004, 12:47 PM   #6
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Black self-stick vinyl trim

When I installed cork tiles in my International AS, I trimmed it with a flexible, self-stick black vinyl trim that I purchased from Mcmaster-Carr. The trim looked great and was really easy to install. Just pull off the strip over the adhesive and press it in place. It bonds like iron. On the McMaster-Carr website, they describe the material as "bowling ball hard", but it bent quite easily during installation. It blended perfectly with the AS interior. If I remember right, I bought 25' of it and it came to me coiled up in about an 24" diameter coil.

You will find photos of it in my thread about installing a cork floor in the AS. Try searching on "cork floor".

If anyone seriously wasnts the McMaster-Carr web site reference for this material, PM me and I will find it for you.
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Old 07-04-2004, 01:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navigator
Put the trim in a metal pipe.
Add steam from a wallpaper steamer.
When wood is hot and wet, it will bend.
This is standard practice in architectural woodworking.
Dick
How long do you have to steam it and shold the ends be part-way closed to maintain the steam? Sonds like a good idea if that woks.
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Old 07-04-2004, 01:55 PM   #8
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I am thinking of going to Home Depot and getting their installer to replace the carpeting....I don't believe I have any curves...one angled corner is all.

The problem, as I see it for me/my situation, is that the whole thing was carpeted and then they installed all the cabients, etc.

Should the carpeting be cut at the bottoms of the cabinets, beds, refrigerator, etc.? If not cut close enough, I will see bits of carpeting....if cut too far it, the cabinets, etc. will drop....

What do you suggest?
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:06 PM   #9
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I have the same problem in the one I just bought. I plan on ripping the old carpet out (Completly) I will have to remove cabinets to do this, but what the heck....

Afterward I am going to replace with a high grade linolium about 1/4 inch thick. It cost more than a corpet would but it last forever.

I love the look of carpet, but a linolium floor in a camper is much easier to keep clean, never picks up a smell, and a small throw rug here and there looks nice too.
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Old 07-04-2004, 02:56 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistler
I am thinking of going to Home Depot and getting their installer to replace the carpeting....I don't believe I have any curves...one angled corner is all.

The problem, as I see it for me/my situation, is that the whole thing was carpeted and then they installed all the cabients, etc.

Should the carpeting be cut at the bottoms of the cabinets, beds, refrigerator, etc.? If not cut close enough, I will see bits of carpeting....if cut too far it, the cabinets, etc. will drop....

What do you suggest?
Based on removing the carpet and putting a cork floor in my 22' AS, I would advise the following.

Buy a carpet layer's knife and a couple of packsges of blades (they get dull fast). The blades will have a rounded tip so that they don't cut into the plywood. Each blade is flippable and reversible so that you get 4 cutting edges per blade.

Cut as close to the walls and kick panels as you can get. Hold the knife at a 45 degree angle so that you cut under as far as possible. The little bit of carpet fluff that is left will just push back under when you fit the flooring up to the walls. Quarter-round trim or, as I suggested above, self-stick vinyl trim will finish the job.
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Old 07-04-2004, 03:04 PM   #11
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But if I cut in under the cabinets, etc., won't that put more stess on the screws holding all that stuff to the walls?

The reason I worry about that is we already have separation behind the sink and stove of the corian from the wall....... what you think about shoving a shim in to hold the cabinets up?
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Old 07-04-2004, 03:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistler
But if I cut in under the cabinets, etc., won't that put more stess on the screws holding all that stuff to the walls?

The reason I worry about that is we already have separation behind the sink and stove of the corian from the wall....... what you think about shoving a shim in to hold the cabinets up?
No problem there. The cabinets, sitting on compressed carpet and pad are only about 1/4" or 3/8" at the most off of the plywood floor. By holding the knife at 45 degrees, you aren't cutting more than about 3/16" under the cabinets; this isn't enough to make a bit of difference in the support of the cabinets or walls.

The reason I said to hold the knife at an angle is that the bottom of the wall or cabinet acts as a guide and if you slide the blade along that surface, the carpet will be cut nice and straight and very close to the wall. Flip, reverse, or change blades often to keep a very sharp edge.

If you are real worried, you could buy a pack of the mini-shims at HD and drive them in under carpet and pad until they are flush with the wall front. That would be just about the right amount of support and might help your existing problem. In my experience, however, you won't need to support the cabinets in any way because you are simply not removing enough support to matter.
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Old 07-04-2004, 04:02 PM   #13
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John, I wish you lived closer "we" might be able to do this little job. By the way, you live in Texas Hill Country don't you? We were in Boerne last April; it was beautiful. Actually the geography improved west of there (Boerne) about 60 miles.

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Old 07-04-2004, 05:40 PM   #14
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In regard to the question of how long to steam wood, it depends entirely upon the wood (hardwoods take longer than soft), the size of the piece to bend, and the amount of steam applied. You just have to take it out and see if it is bendy yet.

Mark
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