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10-15-2013, 01:37 PM
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#71
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3 Rivet Member 
1991 29' Excella
Currently Looking...
Marco Island
, Florida
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 162
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We have the shower with the seat. The fabricated curtain rod bracket was out far enough from the wall to allow the shower curtain to tuck in behind it. The shower head is removable from its bracket so it does not have to be used in only one position which allows us to direct the water away from the curtain. It works wonderfully. I should also add that there was another 1" square fabricated piece put in which ran the length of the wall from the shower base to the ceiling for two purposes: 1) to close off the hole in the shower pan that is left behind when the shower door is removed and 2) to assure no water would get out of the shower. Perhaps you could see more of what I mean by looking at this link I posted on fabricated brackets for the shower: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f7/f...od-109678.html
I hope this helps? Let me know if you need me to take and post more pictures to explain.
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10-15-2013, 01:41 PM
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#72
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3 Rivet Member 
1991 29' Excella
Currently Looking...
Marco Island
, Florida
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 162
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Sorry, I just realized that I had already linked to the shower curtain brackets earlier in this thread.
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10-15-2013, 08:51 PM
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#73
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Rivet Master 
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 626
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The 1" piece of aluminum...did you put that in on both sides of the opening?
Also, really like your walls. Are those sheets of aluminum?
So the brackets are not purchased, but something fabricated?
One last question...where did you find the best place to mount the shower head to be?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 911Patriot
We have the shower with the seat. The fabricated curtain rod bracket was out far enough from the wall to allow the shower curtain to tuck in behind it. The shower head is removable from its bracket so it does not have to be used in only one position which allows us to direct the water away from the curtain. It works wonderfully. I should also add that there was another 1" square fabricated piece put in which ran the length of the wall from the shower base to the ceiling for two purposes: 1) to close off the hole in the shower pan that is left behind when the shower door is removed and 2) to assure no water would get out of the shower. Perhaps you could see more of what I mean by looking at this link I posted on fabricated brackets for the shower: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f7/f...od-109678.html I hope this helps? Let me know if you need me to take and post more pictures to explain. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f7/f...od-109678.html
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10-15-2013, 08:54 PM
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#74
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Rivet Master 
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 626
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Pics of your aluminum shoe molding available? Did you use it along the curved walls?
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10-15-2013, 09:50 PM
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#75
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Meg
1960 22' Caravanner
Sonoma
, California
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 22
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Hi,
After my first trailer trip on Highway one in Calif, it is time to head back to making the ole AS more presentable. I was thrilled to have it actually on the road, but when I saw the shocked look on faces of people who stopped by to take a look it was obvious that it needs plenty more work done!
Today I visited several stores to find floors. First floor criteria -it had to be easy to install, second - did not show all the dust, and dirt from camping, three - look good me with the refinished cabinets and the off colored Zol. walls.
Home Depot advised against any interlocking floor as the trailer is being pulled and jostled. So perhaps "No Glue resilient floor",vinyl with a fiberglass back and no pad needed. It comes in one large roll, 12 feet wide.
They estimated about 450.00 for the piece for the 19 foot trailer at 21 dollars a square yard.
Lumber Liquidator:
Bamboo clicking (interlock) no glue. Maybe it will break apart when I am pulling the trailer??? It is 3.50 a square foot. The sales person voted this to be best for the trailer. Durable and Ok if water gets on it.
cork (interlock) they said it is not so good if it gets damp or wet because the edges can turn up. It is 3.60 a square foot.
LVT, Luxury Vinyl tile, (interlocking) is a durable choice that can hold up to moisture.All three of these choices will need a pad and a saw of some type like a jigsaw.
Flooring store:
The sales person also recommended LVT and bamboo interlocking.
The marmoleum I believe was more expensive and does require that someone glue it.It looks great.
Do you think that the floor pieces will pull apart while the trailer is moving?
I think Lowes has a floor that has adhesive tape on each interlocking piece which might help with the potential problem of the floor wiggling and becoming unlocked!
Meg
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10-16-2013, 12:43 PM
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#76
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3 Rivet Member 
1991 29' Excella
Currently Looking...
Marco Island
, Florida
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 162
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Aluminum base shoe moulding strip
Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream
Pics of your aluminum shoe molding available? Did you use it along the curved walls?
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Here are some pictures of the aluminum strips used at the bases of the cabinetry. I did not use it along curved walls. The strips were adhered with double sided tape which was the perfect width for the aluminum strip.
Here are more detailed pictures of the inside of the shower as to shower head placement and the custom fabricated 1" square capped tube running along side the wall from the shower pan up to the metal rib on the ceiling. This was affixed with double-sided heavy-duty industrial tape and then caulked.
The stainless in the kitchen and in the shower were custom cut and installed. This was done by my brother that also fabricated the shower curtain rod brackets. He has a glass and mirror and metal fabrication business. Because I'm his slightly-older sister he lovingly obliged me with his incredible time and talent.
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10-16-2013, 04:30 PM
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#77
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Rivet Master 
1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 626
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Thanks for those pics! I really like what you've done, including the vertical curved corner piece along the wall in the shower. Is that something your brother fabricated as well? It fits perfectly.
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10-17-2013, 06:43 AM
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#78
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3 Rivet Member 
1991 29' Excella
Currently Looking...
Marco Island
, Florida
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 162
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Stainless and aluminum
Yes, my brother did all the metal fabrication in the kitchen and in the shower.
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04-24-2014, 07:59 PM
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#79
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2 Rivet Member 
Grayslake
, Illinois
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Momoffive
I really wanted the look of wood but not the expansive and absorptive qualities. I found an interlocking vinyl floor at home depot. It's called traffic master allure ultra. It's indoor outdoor and waterproof. Its easy to lay. I hope to have the back sub-floor installed in the next two weeks so I can lay it. It snaps together. It lacks the expansion of real woods, it's weight is comparable to the other flooring types already mentioned. It's under $3 a square foot. Hope others will chime in if they've tried this floor. Make sure to look specifically for the ultra, snap together style. I would not use the adhesive edged style. Happy flooring! 
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The company says it must be installed in climate controlled environments. I don't plan on using it all year round, so it will sit out in the cold and here in Chicago it gets pretty cold. I might return mine and go with something else
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04-25-2014, 08:25 AM
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#80
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2 Rivet Member 
1999 19' Bambi
Cape Canaveral
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 56
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I went with the larger Marmoleum tiles for ease of installation.
Looks great. Feels good on the feet and clean up is a snap.
Sorry for the sideways pic...
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04-25-2014, 08:27 AM
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#81
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2 Rivet Member 
1999 19' Bambi
Cape Canaveral
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 56
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Another shot...
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06-11-2014, 04:54 PM
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#82
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Rivet Master 
1999 28' Excella
New Orleans
, Louisiana
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 667
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Rich looking flooring ideas anyone?
Last year we put in Allure cork design in our 28' Excella. Just does not do it for me. It is laid across the floor instead of length wise. Just has no thickness depth. Looks like cheap tile. Help!
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04-14-2015, 06:57 AM
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#83
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2 Rivet Member 
1997 30' Excella
Corpus Christi
, Texas
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 97
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Is there carpeting under gauchos? Did you have to remove gauchos to install flooring?
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04-29-2015, 10:04 AM
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#84
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1 Rivet Member 
1949 16' Wee Wind
1954 22' Flying Cloud
1961 24' Tradewind
Miami
, Florida
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 15
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I recommend Sheet Marmoleum as a base over the wood subfloor. I like the seamless benefits of waterproofing and cleaning, and it's historically correct for vintage Airstreams. However, the color and pattern choices are quite limited.
So, for those who like the look and feel of carpet, I suggest using FLOR carpet squares ( FLOR modular carpet tiles - Create unique, eco-friendly area rugs, runners & wall-to-wall designs). These are squares of carpet that can be bought individually to create almost any look, from a sisal to bright contemporary to mid century. They attach to each other from underneath with clear acetate stickers, and when the the floor is completely laid out, it remains in place, floating over any smooth surface. Double stick tape could be used at the entryway to hold down the edge, but the backing is a rubberized, heavy base that lays flat and true. Thickness is only about 1/4". It's my favorite product. I have used it all over my house for the past ten years, as area rugs over terrazzo floor, entryway floor mats, and my entire kitchen is FLOR carpet (my kids liked to hang out in our kitchen while we cooked, and this was a comfy solution). If there is any damage or stain that cannot be fixed, just remove the square and replace with another (keep some spare tiles around). Be as creative as you wish, and when you're ready to sell your camper, you can offer either your own favorite carpeted look, or just lift up the carpet and you have your historically correct, Marmoleum floor.
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