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Old 06-19-2009, 05:40 AM   #15
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I looked at the Nyloboard web site, but I couldn't find any information on weight or strength. It did say that sheathing has to be at least 1/2". It's not easy to replace the subfloor on an AS, and I'd rather only do it once. So I'd rather wait on Nyloboard to see how it fares over the span of a few decades.

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Old 06-19-2009, 06:00 AM   #16
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My original sub floor was 3/4" thick. I went with 3/4" thick nyloboard. I took my grinder and gave the board a quick once over on the edge to help slide it under the Channel. It fit very well and tight.

After reading countless threads on rot in the bathrooms especially in the 70's airstreams I am very glad I went with the Nyloboard. My orginal floor in the rest of the airstream was in pretty good shape. I had a couple small rot spots I fixed with a product the historical society uses. It wasn't rot doctor. It turned those soft spots into very hard areas. It worked great. It soaked through the rot spot and killed the rot. It turned as hard as fiberglass. Then I used laminate on the the floor after I sealed the whole floor with Thompsons and Behr heavy duty stain.

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Old 07-13-2009, 01:02 AM   #17
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Floor Replacement Shell Off 50 Liner

I just did a shell off floor replacement in my 50 Liner. It had a 5/8" floor but I opted for the 3/4" A/C fir for replacement. I sealed it with sanding sealer then primed the underside. I installed the boards gluing all the joints with the titebond exterior glue and made sure all the joint butts butted over the original double framed members. All the wood was securely fastened to the framing members and fish-bone framing. (a note here: this unit was an original pipe framed designed unit. But a PO had an a-frame installed forward of the steel axle assembly. So basically I have a ladder type unit 2/3rds the length of the trailer. This was a great find. The chassis is in great shape.) After securing the wood I then put new c-channel all the way around the perimeter. Originally it only had pieces of c-channel around the craved ends. I made these by using 2 L-channels. In addition to the C-channel I also installed an L-channel under the flooring around the perimeter upward as an edging and then used elevator bolts and fender washers every 8" to secure the C and L-channels to the new flooring. I felt this would give the floor to shell connect more strength. So basically when you rivet the shell back in place the rivets will go through the shell, belly pan, L-channel and c-channel.

No doubt this was a lot of work and if I had to do it again I'd still do a shell off replacement. It's the only way to go.
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Old 07-13-2009, 04:44 AM   #18
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Wow! Those pics look great.

Nyloboard has technical data on their website. You just have to search for it. They will send you samples also.

Brian & Adrienne
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Old 08-25-2009, 04:48 PM   #19
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The other thing I would recommend is a tiling substrate over the subfloor (if you're installing tile vs. a wood/pergo). Potentially, this could even save you the need to replace all of the subfloor, since it's waterproof.

You can even lay it directly over the existing flooring, so you donít have to spend time ripping out old flooring before laying tile. And, itís super thin, so it wonít raise the profile of the floor. Also, I guess this goes without saying, but it's super light.

Thereís tons more information here:

US Gypsum Company - Waterproofing membrane for ceramic tile installation

Full disclosure: I work with USG, but this seems like a good contribution to the discussion of subfloor in general.

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