Point taken. This sounds easy enough if the flange turns out to be a "screw in" as opposed to "glue in" variety. Assuming screw in, I guess it won't be threaded in as far with an extra layer of flooring. Should I seal the threads with some type of "pipe goop" to prohibit leakage of odors or worse?
66Overlander,
I described in an earlier post on this thread how to make a spanner wrench out of the flange bolts and a 2 X 4 to remove the flange if it is indeed a screw in type.
When replacing, just make sure you drill oversized holes in the laminte; for expansion and contraction of the flooring. NOT the sub-floor. You may also need to get longer screws that attach the flange to the sub floor becuase of the extra thickness of the new flooring.
Even with the extra thickness of the laminate floor there was PLENTY of thread on my flange when I re-installed it. And yes I used a pretty liberal amount of Teflon pipe dope on the flange threads (the paste type, not the tape type).
So far I have had no leaks or problems (knock on wood) and the trailer has traveled well over 1,000 miles since the re-model.
Looking back, I wish I would have taken pictures, but I was pressed for time and did not bother. Please let us know how you make out.
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Bailey Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
1987 34' Excella 1000 Double Door Savannah
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed AIR #14487 WBCCI #7429
I don't think my flange was threaded in. My toilet sits on a raised platform and it looked like it was glued to the pipe that went at least a foot down to the tank. Better make sure yours is threaded before you put some real torque on the flange and then break something. My floor was installed up to the flange and then I purchased an adapter to raise the flange height by ~ 1/4" to 3/8".
__________________
WBCCI 24291
New England Unit
Metropolitan NY Unit
Joe> any finished photos? Do you still like the product and look?
Lorrie and I love the look and feel, but due to various factors, the install isn't 100% done yet and we haven't actually camped in it since we put it down. I have about half of the shoe molding installed and half to go. Hopefully that gets finished next weekend and then I can call the instal 100% complate. Then I'll have no excuse to not post some before and after photos. And then we finally go camping and test it out in early August.
__________________ Joe
Vintage Airstream Club Historian WBCCI/VAC #5533
'55 22' Safari / '63 28' Ambassador / '94 28' Excella
I noticed the other day that my local Home Depot seems to have a lot more of the Traficmaster Allure in stock now. They have four wood colors and 1 or two tile patterns all in stock.
I have read this thread and want to re-do my floor with the tiger wood.
I see no mention of cutting around the bottom of a "round" sink cabinet.
Any suggestion on a good method other than making a cardboard templet?
Thanks in advance,
Lin.
Making a template of some sort seems to me like the best way to do it. I think I would use stiff paper or thin poster board rather than corugated cardboard though. It would be easier to trim with scissors until it fits. Also it would be great if it were possible to slip your paper under the edge of the sink. You could then trace around the curve. Is there any chance that you can do that?
Making a template of some sort seems to me like the best way to do it. I think I would use stiff paper or thin poster board rather than corugated cardboard though. It would be easier to trim with scissors until it fits. Also it would be great if it were possible to slip your paper under the edge of the sink. You could then trace around the curve. Is there any chance that you can do that?
Malcolm
Malcolm,
I not sure on sliding under the sink but I don't see why not with time.
I like the idea of the poster board a lot easier than cardboard.
Quick Links
Do you still like the product and look?
Hybrid Mode
