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Old 05-24-2008, 11:58 PM   #43
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Pulled the toilet on Saturday so that we could take the rest of the carpet out. Easily found the two bolts, once I knew what to look for. The latest "disturbing" discovery is that there was no old toilet seal (i.e. the donut) when we removed the toilet. We didn't have any smell issues last year, so I guess we got lucky. Under the toilet were signs of past water leaks, but no soft spots. If I was to guess the source, it was a leaky fitting on the fresh water supply to the toilet that must have been fixed before we got it, as the carpet was never wet when we had it. But this will be one advantage of the new flooring - a water leak at that fitting will be obvious now.

I am wondering if I need to do anything with the toilet (closet?) flange. It looks like it is aready thicker than the new flooring will be, so maybe it will be OK "as is". I guess I won't know for sure until we try to fit the toilet after installing the flooring.

And speaking of the allure flooring, as of yesterday, Home Depot now says it is expected in about Wednesday, so maybe I can istall it NEXT weekend, if I get all of the other projects done first (today, among other projects, I rehung the catalytic heater (it was pulling the mounting screws out of the cabinet wall where it was mounted - always good to have all propane appliances firmly attached).

When the allure finally arrives, I am thinking of going ahead with the red with white dots (actually tiny sytrofoam balls) underlayment, unless anyone can give me a good reason not to.
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Old 05-25-2008, 07:38 AM   #44
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Underlayment

I've been following this thread closely since I'm planning on using this product in my renovation. The entire thing has been done from the frame up, new floor, new wiring, insulation and new aluminum skin. before I put the new skin on the interior I covered the entire floor in 3M ice and water shield. This is the stuff that is typically put on roofs as a sealing membrane. Besides that, the floor was treated with wood preservative around the edges. I'm hedging my bet on trying to keep the floor good for another 50 years.

The ice and water shield is good stuff, so if you're thinking about re-doing a bath area this is the perfect stuff. Plus if you drill into it the screws get sealed by this stuff.

So my question is about underlayment, the red and white dot stuff mentioned in this thread. Has anyone used it in their install yet? Does it feel much different? Also, is the material porous or solid?

Great thread. Great info.

Doug
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Old 05-25-2008, 02:41 PM   #45
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I wonder if underlayment under the Allure Traffic Master type of vinyl floor is a good idea. I would have thought that putting it directly on the stiff floor surface wouldn't be better. I would be concerned that the extra flexing of the material allowed by the flexing of the underlayment would cause more wear and tear on the flooring. I would also be concerned about the overlapping glued joints having more pull and strain on them. Underlayment of the type discussed here would be good for a stiff type of laminate flooring but is it really a good idea for a flexible flooring?

Malcolm
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Old 05-25-2008, 02:44 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy_hollow
I've been following this thread closely since I'm planning on using this product in my renovation. The entire thing has been done from the frame up, new floor, new wiring, insulation and new aluminum skin. before I put the new skin on the interior I covered the entire floor in 3M ice and water shield. This is the stuff that is typically put on roofs as a sealing membrane. Besides that, the floor was treated with wood preservative around the edges. I'm hedging my bet on trying to keep the floor good for another 50 years.

The ice and water shield is good stuff, so if you're thinking about re-doing a bath area this is the perfect stuff. Plus if you drill into it the screws get sealed by this stuff.

Doug
Doug,

The 3M product does sound like an interesting product. Can you give us some more information about where you got it? Does it come in a size that is wide enough to install a single piece on your floor?

Thanks,

Malcolm
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Old 05-25-2008, 03:27 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
I would also be concerned about the overlapping glued joints having more pull and strain on them. Underlayment of the type discussed here would be good for a stiff type of laminate flooring but is it really a good idea for a flexible flooring?
I would tend to agree with this thought. Temperature differences found in trailers put stress enough on the joints. We have gaps in the winter that close up in the spring/summer due to the type of material and the temperatures when we installed the floor. The underlayment is made for the wood/laminate products. I am sure you can install it with the vinyl but I am not sure it is the best idea when it comes to wear.
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:48 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by 66Overlander
Marvin,
After seeing your note I stopped by Home Depot and looked at the Red with White Polka Dots underlayment. It looks like good stuff and is likely made for a hardwood type floor, but is it also OK for the Allure Vinyl planks, too?

Actually, I like the idea of using it under the vinyl Allure, even though the Allure instructions say nothing is needed. It would be another moisture barrier. It would provide a little padding to make the floor more pleasant to walk on with bare feet. And it would add a little thickness to help fill the gap below the cabinets (so I don't have to add quarter round). I had actually been wondering if such a thing extisted and if it would work under the Allure, so I am glad you posted and I look forward to your reply.

Thanks,

Joe, Sorry I didn't get back to you. I have been so busy working on our trailr. I am not sure about Allure, for some reason I was thinking it was click flooring. You might better go with what Home Depot or the manufacture suggest. Looking forward to seeing your floor when finished.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:00 AM   #49
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Sorry GAF

Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
Doug,

The 3M product does sound like an interesting product. Can you give us some more information about where you got it? Does it come in a size that is wide enough to install a single piece on your floor?

Thanks,

Malcolm

The product is not 3M, my mistake, it's from GAF. It's basic ice and water shield that you can buy at HD or lowes. The roll I have is 30 inches wide, but I think you can get wider.

HTH,

Doug
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:18 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66Overlander
I am wondering if I need to do anything with the toilet (closet?) flange. It looks like it is aready thicker than the new flooring will be, so maybe it will be OK "as is". I guess I won't know for sure until we try to fit the toilet after installing the flooring.
Joe,
I would pull the flange and run the flooring up to the hole. The flange is meant to sit on top of the flooring and the toilet will tighten down around the flange. This is what causes the seal to compress and keeps the toilet from leaking.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:21 PM   #51
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I found another positive trait of the embossed vinyl plank type flooring. When camping in sloppy conditions, although it does get muddy, the mud dries and can be swept out leaving a clean appearing floor. Discovered by accident after a muddy night in a KOA...
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:43 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEITZ645
Joe,
I would pull the flange and run the flooring up to the hole. The flange is meant to sit on top of the flooring and the toilet will tighten down around the flange. This is what causes the seal to compress and keeps the toilet from leaking.
Point taken. This sounds easy enough if the flange turns out to be a "screw in" as opposed to "glue in" variety. Assuming screw in, I guess it won't be threaded in as far with an extra layer of flooring. Should I seal the threads with some type of "pipe goop" to prohibit leakage of odors or worse?
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:24 AM   #53
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Use Teflon Pipe Dope

Quote:
Originally Posted by 66Overlander
Point taken. This sounds easy enough if the flange turns out to be a "screw in" as opposed to "glue in" variety. Assuming screw in, I guess it won't be threaded in as far with an extra layer of flooring. Should I seal the threads with some type of "pipe goop" to prohibit leakage of odors or worse?
66Overlander,
I described in an earlier post on this thread how to make a spanner wrench out of the flange bolts and a 2 X 4 to remove the flange if it is indeed a screw in type.

When replacing, just make sure you drill oversized holes in the laminte; for expansion and contraction of the flooring. NOT the sub-floor. You may also need to get longer screws that attach the flange to the sub floor becuase of the extra thickness of the new flooring.

Even with the extra thickness of the laminate floor there was PLENTY of thread on my flange when I re-installed it. And yes I used a pretty liberal amount of Teflon pipe dope on the flange threads (the paste type, not the tape type).

So far I have had no leaks or problems (knock on wood) and the trailer has traveled well over 1,000 miles since the re-model.

Looking back, I wish I would have taken pictures, but I was pressed for time and did not bother. Please let us know how you make out.
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Old 05-31-2008, 10:12 AM   #54
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Arrgghh! Still no call that the flooring is in - now it's over a week and a half late. I guess I won't be dealing with the toilet flange this weekend (but I've got other projects to keep me busy instead).

I do understand the spanner wrench concept and will make one of needed. I also understand the oversize hole concept, but even after slightly oversizing the holes on the flooring that goes under the flange, it seems that I can't make it a continuous piece from under the flange all the way out into the open floor, becuase the with the flange bolted down the floor would not float there. I am thinking I need to put a ring of flooring about the width of the flange under the flange and then keep a small gap to the rest of the flooring. the gap would be hidden under the toilet (except for where the pedals are, but the gap would be hard to see under them). This way the floor could "float" under the outer edge of the toilet. Your thoughts?
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Old 05-31-2008, 12:03 PM   #55
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I don't think my flange was threaded in. My toilet sits on a raised platform and it looked like it was glued to the pipe that went at least a foot down to the tank. Better make sure yours is threaded before you put some real torque on the flange and then break something. My floor was installed up to the flange and then I purchased an adapter to raise the flange height by ~ 1/4" to 3/8".
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Old 06-01-2008, 04:27 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66Overlander
...it seems that I can't make it a continuous piece from under the flange all the way out into the open floor, becuase the with the flange bolted down the floor would not float there. I am thinking I need to put a ring of flooring about the width of the flange under the flange and then keep a small gap to the rest of the flooring. the gap would be hidden under the toilet (except for where the pedals are, but the gap would be hard to see under them). This way the floor could "float" under the outer edge of the toilet. Your thoughts?
66overlander,
Doesn't it stink when somethong you ordered doesn't come in when expected. I feel your pain, happens to me all the time.

I don't think it is important that it be one continuous length under the flange. But your "ring" idea is exactly what I had to do becuase I goofed up and did not remove the flange before installing the flooring. My "ring" has been fine so far and unless you remove the toilet and flange you would never know that I goofed up.
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