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Old 05-18-2008, 09:42 PM   #29
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Been busy over the weekend putting the furniture etc back in. Now that there are horizontal lines, I realized that the front goucho was never installed evenly across the front. Maybe that's why one of the rear hold down bolts was never installed. There's a hole in the floor, but the lag bolt bottoms out on what I believe to be the frame. With a nice rug in front of the sofa, I'm the only one who notices except for those Forums readers.
Tried to put the toilet back in, but the floor is now even with the sewer flange. More issues - the flange is deformed where the johnny bolt sits as it looks like the nut was overtightened and put a lot of stress on the flange. I thought the flange would just unscrew and pull out so I could replace it. Screws came out easy, but the rest is a mystery. Went to HD to get an extender, maybe I can file down the protrusion. Alignment of the bolts and toilet with the flange extension is going to be a B**. I couldn't see behind the tiolet when I was removing it. It might have been easier just to work the floor around the toilet instead of under it.
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Old 05-19-2008, 12:15 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBlur
I also did not use an undercut saw, but I worked hard at getting the carpet out from under the cabinets etc so I could tuck the ends of the planks under them. The biggest surprise I encountered was that the interior walls were not entirely square, so sometimes a square end did not go completely under the wall.....
We pulled the goucho, tables, carpet and pad out this weekend and then I had the very same thought - if I carefully pull the carpet out from under the cabinets, perhaps I can tuck the flooring under it without shoe molding, at least not in most places. I have thought that maybe I'd need to install some sort of blocks under the cabinet ends, however, to keep them properly supported while bouncing down the road, because they are currently supported by just a few screws and the current carpeting.

Good note on the "squareness" factor, I'll have to pay attention to that when I get to the "install" stage.

I am glad we went ahead and pulled the carpet this weekend, even though the flooring is not in yet. We discovered some wet areas that we did not know about, so I guess recaulking the trailer is the new priority project. I took care of the most obvious seams today, but will have a go at more of them as soon as I get more vulkem.

At least we found the leaks early - the floors aren't soft, mostly just discolored a little. We will apply a wood hardener just to be safe and then put a sealer down, before we put the new flooring in - don't want to trap moisture under the new Allure floor covering. As usually goes when working on an Airstream, one intended project leads to several unintended ones: Plan to install new floor covering ==> remove carpet & pad ==> discover leaks ==> fix leaks (recaulk seams) ==> allow floor to dry completely ==> sand & level floor ==> apply wood hardener to floor (just to be safe) ==> seal floor ==> then install new floorcovering.
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Old 05-19-2008, 07:05 AM   #31
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If you are successful in getting the carpet cleared from the edge of the walls and cabinets, and carefully check for "squareness", I think you can avoid the quarter round. In a few spots where I could not get the carpet out very well, I pushed it back further under the cabinets. I did not see any need at all to install any supporting blocks, but you'll just have to assess your situation.

I found only two spots where I had some active water seepage. Although I used vulkem when installing the new fantastic fans, I used Parbond to re-seal around the usual suspect spots-windows, doors, and suspicious seams. It is alot easier to work with than vulkem.
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Old 05-19-2008, 07:46 AM   #32
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My TM Installation

Here's a thread with some pictures of my TM installation. I've had it down for 6 months or so now and I like it just fine. The better job you do of getting your pieces tight together will mean fewer gaps that trap a small line of dirt.

My TM Installation
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:34 AM   #33
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Joe, Get the good underlayment, Home Depot sells it, it is red with white dots on it. Don't use the stuff that comes with most flooring it is junk.

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Old 05-19-2008, 08:27 PM   #34
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Marvin,
After seeing your note I stopped by Home Depot and looked at the Red with White Polka Dots underlayment. It looks like good stuff and is likely made for a hardwood type floor, but is it also OK for the Allure Vinyl planks, too?

Actually, I like the idea of using it under the vinyl Allure, even though the Allure instructions say nothing is needed. It would be another moisture barrier. It would provide a little padding to make the floor more pleasant to walk on with bare feet. And it would add a little thickness to help fill the gap below the cabinets (so I don't have to add quarter round). I had actually been wondering if such a thing extisted and if it would work under the Allure, so I am glad you posted and I look forward to your reply.

Thanks,
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:39 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peegreen
More issues - the flange is deformed where the johnny bolt sits as it looks like the nut was overtightened and put a lot of stress on the flange. I thought the flange would just unscrew and pull out so I could replace it. Screws came out easy, but the rest is a mystery. Went to HD to get an extender, maybe I can file down the protrusion. Alignment of the bolts and toilet with the flange extension is going to be a B**. I couldn't see behind the tiolet when I was removing it. It might have been easier just to work the floor around the toilet instead of under it.
PeeGreen,
I made a spanner wrench out of a length of 2X4 and the johnny bolts. I drilled holes in the 2X4 the same distance apart as the slots in the toilet flange. Then I put the johnny bolts in the flange slots, slipped them through the holes in the 2X4 and presto, you have a spanner wrench. I was lucky enough that my toilet flange was a threaded one that threaded into the blank tank. If yours is glued in then you will have to go with a flange extender. After I had mine out I made a donut ring from the flooring material that would fit under the flange to bring the flange up to the correct height. I drilled oversized holes to allow for expansion and contraction of the flooring material and just screwed the flange back into the black tank and used slightly longer screws to secure the flange to the sub floor. So far it is working perfectly.

My flange was a little deformed too, but it did not make any difference with the seal when I re-installed the toilet.
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:45 PM   #36
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One more question for anyone . . .

Can someone tell me how to remove the toilet? I just cut the carpet and pad around the toilet so far, because it wasn't obvious how it comes out and I didn't have any instructions this past weekend. And I didn't have the time to try to reverse engineer it.

Thanks in advance,
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:46 PM   #37
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Use Of Undercut Saw

I had to use the undercut saw to avoid the use of shoe molding. In '87 they must not have installed the cabinetry over a fully carpeted floor. The cabinetry rests directly on the floor, not on carpeting. My carpet was cut in like you would in a non-mobile home. There were tack strips along the perimeter of the trailer and cabinets. So the undercut saw became a necessity.
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Old 05-19-2008, 08:55 PM   #38
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Toilet Removal

66,
There are two bolts that attach the toilet to the toilet flange. The toilet flange is either glued into or threaded into the black water tank and the flange is secured to the sub-floor by countersunk flathead screws. At least mine was anyway.

There may be a removable trim piece at the base of your toilet that grants you access to the bolts that secure the toilet to the flange. There are usually two bolts securing the flange to the toilet. Simply remove the bolts and the toilet should simply lift off the bolts and flange. Remember when replacing the toilet ALWAYS use a new seal that you can get at any RV dealer.

I had a Thetford Bravura and one bolt was accessible from the back of the toilet and the other was accessible after I removed the trim piece from the front. Either way you look at it, it is extremely tight quarters and may require a contortionist to remove the bolts
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:00 PM   #39
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Use of tack strips is a sign that the carpeting had been replaced and relaid by a carpet installer.

The front johnny bolt is accessible by pushing the pedal down and inserting a johnny chock or 1 liter bottle in the hole to keep the pedals depressed. The front bolt is behind the pedals. The rear bolt can be seen by removing an access plug on the left hand side of the toilet rim. Use a flashlight behing the toilet to iluminate the rear area. Once you see it you'll be able to use a wrench from behind or if you have, two extensions and a universal joint with a ratchet from the access hole above.
I bought an extender from HD, too hard to explain why it wouldn't work, bought another from the local ACE - less expensive and 10000% better. Used a Dremmel with cut off wheel to remove deformed section of old flange. Flange is glued to extension into the black tank. No problem bolting tilet back in, but cannot get water connection to thread back on. Tried for about an hour reaching behind totally blind or with a mirror but no luck. Will search for fittings and flexible hose connection if one exists.
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Old 05-20-2008, 04:03 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peegreen
Use of tack strips is a sign that the carpeting had been replaced and relaid by a carpet installer..
PeeGreen,
I really do not think that was the case with my '87. I say this becuase there is no evidence under the sofa or under any of the cabinetry that there was ever carpet installed wall to wall. Plus the carpet looked like 20 year old carpet. Ugly 80's era rose / mauve.
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:08 PM   #41
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Deitz (Carl?),
Thanks. I will look for the bolts when we pull the trailer back home this weekend to continue working on it.

(So much more would get done much more quickly if we could keep the trailer at home, but unfortunately that is not the case. We keep it at home overnight occasionally, but can't do several days or weeks at a time.)
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:20 PM   #42
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Local plumbing supply made up a nice assembly to easily connect the water supply back to the toilet. Tried it out before boltimg it down. Leaked horribly. The spider web of PVC tubing in the toilet had not been installed correctly (my bad - removed the flush assy while toilet was out and contemplated rebuild kit). After that was fixed went ahead with the final install and low and behold, the rear johnny bolt falls in the hole. Magnet was out since the bolt is brass. Looked to #2 son who has the smallest hand and he volunteered to don a glove and go after it. Up to his elbow still couldn't reach. Used one of those flexi grabber things to retrieve it. Interior now ready for Memorial Day rally.
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