Shocking!!

[TG Twinkie]

Crawled under the trailer today to determine how much work it will be to install the new shocks. PLEASE TELL ME I DON'T HAVE TO DROP THE AXLES TO INSTALL THE SHOCKS! I can't see that there is enough clearance between the end of the stud and the frame on the axle end of the shock to slide the shock off. What am I missing?

[erock53]

You got it. There is not enough room. To replace them you will have to bend the stud to get them off andthen bend it back when the new one is installed.

[Mexray]

I mounted the shocks on the axles before installing new axles...but of course that doesn't help you...

I think I've read that you can make one cut in the rubber bushings - a radius like cut so that it's possible to install them onto the shock after the shock is remounted on the stud...

In other words, without the rubber bushings, it's possible to move the shock around at an extreme angle to get it onto the stud - then because the bushings have been cut, twist them over the stud and into place on the shock - inside and out...

When the washer and bolt have been tightened on the stud, the cut bushings work as just fine as they are contained in place - I'd rotate the 'cut' portion of the bushings 90 degrees to the action of the shocks...

I haven't tried this method, only have read about it...

Ray

[RickDavis]

The original shocks have a split 2 piece rubber bushing. ( or did in 1969) Perhaps you can either push out the new bushing which I assume must be one piece on the new shock? either cut it as a 2 piece bushing or reuse the old one. Been a number of years since I did this but I was able to do it with out dropping the axle. Probably some one will chime in with more up to date info

[Jim Foster]

The shock bushings on our '83 Excella are cone shaped, with the small part of the cones coming together inside the shock mounting ring. By removing the nut and washer, removing the first cone, twisting the shock downward or upward, the shock should come loose from the remaining cone shaped bushing, and slide out above or below the mounting stud. Make sure the bushing is not still stuck inside the ring. More easily done with the wheel removed.

[TG Twinkie]

I wonder who the rocket scientist was that designed this system?

[Jim Foster]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

I wonder who the rocket scientist was that designed this system?

I would be interested to know if it works for you.

[war eagle]

As I recall, when replacing shocks, the old shock required a bit of twisting and pulling to compress the rubber and allow the shock to come off the mount, but I didn't have to bend the mounting stud. For the new shocks, I removed the rubber bushing and cut it in half as Mexray describes in his post. Them one half is installed in the shock, the shock installed on the mount with by twisting it a bit, then the second half was installed followed by the washer and the nut that holds it all together.

Hope this helps!

Steve

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

I wonder who the rocket scientist was that designed this system?

Well it's them there Airstream ingineers that never tried using the trailers they designed

[bmklawt]

Here is a video showing how it is done.
Airstream Shock replacement guide

[barts]

If they would not weld that shock mounting stud into the bracket on the axle, but make it bolt on instead this would be a lot easier, and only marginally more expensive. The same trick could be used for the mounting stud at the other end of the shock, so when it rusted up you could cut it off and replace it w/o a welder....

BTW - tip for getting those rusted nuts off easily - a really good penetrating oil can be made at home w/ 75% acetone and 25% ATF or other light oil; the acetone makes this stuff work really well and it simply races into small spaces. Naturally, keep it away from plastics you want to keep....

- Bart

[lynn]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

I wonder who the rocket scientist was that designed this system?

I would imagine Wally Byam