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Old 08-03-2006, 06:25 AM   #15
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1971 27' Overlander
Richmond , Virginia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 4

Hi Everyone,
Thanks for the advice and discussion about the shock situation on my Overlander. I will definately be replacing the shocks even though I have noticed the natural dampening of my axle setup. I am pulling this trailer with what I consider to be a small truck (Chevy 1500 1/2 ton - 4.3 V6), and I want the trailer to be in the best pulling shape as possible to reduce the amount of strain on the truck. I recently mounted new tires and restored my brakes and bearings. The trailer pulled extremely well and the brakes worked liked a charm (I attribute much of the flawless brake performannce to the Prodigy brake controller that I installed).
I feel considerably more educated after visiting the forums, so thank you very much. I hope to see you guys on the road!


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Old 08-03-2006, 08:46 AM   #16
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1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,242
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Originally Posted by ecomstock
I am pulling this trailer with what I consider to be a small truck (Chevy 1500 1/2 ton - 4.3 V6), and I want the trailer to be in the best pulling shape as possible to reduce the amount of strain on the truck.
Talk about being on the edge. Depending on year and axle ratio this truck is rated to tow 5000 #'s. Your trailer dry is 4500 #'s. Add gear, propane any spare equipment, not to mention water and or waste you are at limit or over. The truck would also have to have the following to make the 5000 # rating:
to be 2 wheel drive with automatic
3.42 axle ratio or 3.73
Z82 tow package
oil cooler and tranny cooler
and a weight dist hitch

The shocks will not make much difference on that trailer with 35 year old axles.


1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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Old 08-03-2006, 09:01 AM   #17
Frank S
1973 27' Overlander
peoria , Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 316
Hi ecomstock--I agree with Action, and think you may be over the edge. I have a 1973 27' Overlander which has a loaded weight of 6200# on the A/S axles. The axles are at a slightly negative angle, so axle replaqcement is next for me.--Frank S
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Old 08-17-2006, 11:03 AM   #18
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Denton , North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2006
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I would have to say this is a good thread. I have found that using a crow bar on the arm that connects to the inside of the Dura Torque to be able to get the shock on veries from job to job. I stopped doing it that way as the age of the rubber effects this. Or, so was my conclusion. And it may be changing the axles is needed if they are real old and the rubber is hard.
For the most part, having the trailer up on jack stands and being under it with a crow bar never appealed to me. That is why I like cutting the rubber grommet or bushing.

Once you cut it in half, you put half the bushing on, then the shock, then the other half the bushing. After that it is the washer, a little lock-tight, and then the nut.

Nice layout Zeppelinium

For the most part a agree with everything Andy has said. I just like cutting the rubber bushing.

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