While replacing the shock abosrbers on my '67 Overlander, I noticed the following on the existing shocks:
4975425 PLIACELL 136 72
DELCO PRODUCTS DAYTON OHIO USA
I have read in past posts that Gabriel is the approved Airstream shock absorber manufacturer for Airstream. If someone from Gabriel should happen to read this post, how about making the top, rubber bushing in two pieces? I was able to remove this old shock without bending the top shock bracket. If my new shock-from-an-Airstream-dealer had had this feature, the installation would have been considerably easier.
Interesting thing is that my Airstream's PO always had work done by RV dealerships, usually the dealership he purchased the unit from new.
When I was in the automotive industry I was told that there are something like 5 manufacturers of shocks. (There may be more now) And if a company wanted to sell shocks that company could give the specs to a manufacturer and (with enough quanitity) could brand and market their own shocks. With that said, I do not believe that Delco makes shocks.
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1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - towing a - 1966 Overlander International Twin Bed
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII Diamond Anniversary 4.6L (275hp), 4R70W - 1990 Ford E 150 5.8L, E4OD, 3.55 ____________________________________
Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
..With that said, I do not believe that Delco makes shocks.
Okay, so what is your point? I am not telling anyone something to do. My shocks had that wording on them. I thought I would share it for what it is worth.
I thought you were asking a Q as to why the shock was stamped Delco. I have seen shocks that were stamp with one manufacture, tagged with a label from a reseller and boxed with a different name. The experience I had was at a Ford Dealership. The shock that I saw was in a Motorcraft box. Inside was a Delco painted and labeled shock with a Monroe stamp.
Just thinking that you may actually have a Gabriel shock with a Delco stamp.
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1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - towing a - 1966 Overlander International Twin Bed
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII Diamond Anniversary 4.6L (275hp), 4R70W - 1990 Ford E 150 5.8L, E4OD, 3.55 ____________________________________
Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
I ordered 4 shocks from an AS dealership here in Texas. The rubber
insert(s) came as one piece. That was fine on the bottom...but on the top
it was not possible to put the one-piece in....so it had to be cut in half
and assembled in two parts....the OEM shock aint OEM....there was no
taper either(straight cylinder shape). Anyone else notice the "subtle difference"?
I ordered 4 shocks from an AS dealership here in Texas. The rubber
insert(s) came as one piece. That was fine on the bottom...but on the top
it was not possible to put the one-piece in....so it had to be cut in half
and assembled in two parts....the OEM shock aint OEM....there was no
taper either(straight cylinder shape). Anyone else notice the "subtle difference"?
Delco shocks have been history for years.
They have been replaced by Gabriel, and have been OEM for many years.
Installing them is easy and there is no need to cut anything.
The dealer should have told you how to do it. Sorry.
For those of us too far away to stop by Inland RV to get our shocks changed, can you give some insight how to easily replace these horizontal shocks?
Thanks in advance!
There are two ways to change the shocks.
One way is with the tires and wheels on, and the other is with the tires and wheels off.
The fastest way to change the shocks of course is with the tires and wheels off. Changeout time per shock, about 5 minutes each.
With the tires and wheels on, changeout is about 15 minutes each. Close working quarters.
In some cases, the shock bracket on the axle may have to be bent outward a 1/4 inch or so, which will provide the necessary clearance to get the shock off. That takes a minute or two.
CAUTION: These times so not included any "stop for a sip of beer."
Tools needed. A couple of good hands, a socket set, or a crescent wrench, or a open end wrench.
No need to jack the trailer up, unless you want a little more working room. Then, only jack up one side at a time, from the axle mounting plate.